I recently built a 324 with 371 pistons & #10 heads. This is my original block I am putting back together. I will keep this is as a spare or maybe eventually sell it. I thought I would share some pics and thoughts along the way.


So it was bored and honed by machine shop to .030 over. I removed all the oil galley and freeze plugs. I had them install new cam bearings (O-4) also.


Trying out brass freeze plugs. Im using a little aviation permatex before knocking them in flush.


This is the distibutor gear oil plug. It has a small oil in it that squirts oil on it. Don't forget it before you install all the block plugs!


You can see the allen wrench on the oil plug just barely. I was test fitting my camshaft also.


I going with a rope seal. I found an NOS seal that is empregnated with asbestos.


I flattened it with a big socket and hammer. Tapping and rolling from the center out. I used aviation permatex underneath it.


I cut it flush with a brand new blade. I used the handle of a wooden hammer to brace against it while I cut it.


The crankshaft is standard. I polished it with progressive grits from 1200 to 2000. Here is the #1 journal plastigauged. .002 is at top of spec. I give this a .0018
#1 .0005-,0020, #2,3,4 .0005-.0030, #5 Rear .0020-0035


1 thru 4 100 ft lbs. Rear cap 140 ft lbs. The rope seal does make the crankshaft harder to turn, but it gets easiler as it wears in.


Wiped down cylinder walls with a clean towel and pb blaster. Done for now, pistons next!

 

Here are the pistons I'm using from Kantor. Just basic stuff, cast aluminum with a teflon skirt.


Varience of .0004 (only 4 tenths).


I am just using stock rods with new bearings.

 

 

I am reusing the stock camshaft. I kept all the lifters in order. All the lobes and lifters are perfectly fine. I did have the machine shop install new cam bearings. Just using Lucas assembly lube here.

 

The original timing set had 32 links, the new ones have 24 links, so the teeth are wider. It helps to clean the crankshaft snout good so the crank gear goes on smooth (its not a press fit).


You have to slide the assembly on together, keeping it aligned. I had to lightly tap it on with a rubber mallet.


Install the fuel pump eccentric, oil slinger and cam button (not shown).


I found an NOS front seal, pretty cool. Using that. It was marked "VICTOR 4963". It has felt in the end after the rubber seal.


Old seal out.


New seal in. I used aviation permatex and brought it flush with the inside like the original was.





I used Ultra Black on both sides of the front cover gasket.


Torque all the bolts to 35 ft lbs. Install the crankshaft pulley and bolt. Done for now, oil pump and oil pan next.

 

Install Oil Pump and Pan


The torque spec is like 11-14 ft lbs. The torque wrench I had only goes 25 ft lbs so I estimated.

I like to use Ultra Black on both sides and place all that on the pan side. The ends need pulled into the pan anyway.

Done for now. Heads next.

 

I used a light coat of Permatex Copper spray.

#8 head ready to go.

All 18 of the bolts need thread sealant.

Install lifters and pushrods before the rocker shaft head bolts go on.


1st side in.

Now start torqing bolts. I go 45, then 65, then 70 ft lbs for a final torque.

After the 2nd head is installed, install the valley breather air-oil separator.

Last look before the valley pan cover goes on.

Done for now, intake next.

 

While I'm waiting for the valley cover gasket from Fusick I decided to clean up and paint the block and engine up to this point. I'm using the Olds green from Inline tube. The intake is just mocked in place right now. I'll paint again around the intake and the bolt heads like the factory did once that's all completely installed.

 

I have reached a point where I will store this. I still want to run it on an engine stand within the next year or so. I just painted exhaust manifolds last night. I have a carb, and I will install a distributor. I don't have an extra oil filter plate or a fuel pump. I can probably just install a fuel pump block off plate for now and use a clickity clack for a pump on a test stand.

 

Just bought this relic off ebay for $50 bucks. Will go straight in the carb cleaner vat a few days. We will see.