Vintage Oldsmobiles Curved Dash, Limited Touring, Models 40, 53, 66; Series 60, 70, 90

Gas tank door spring

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 1, 2021 | 11:52 PM
  #1  
Doctor's Olds's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 86
Gas tank door spring

Can somebody post a photo of the closure mechanism of the fuel tank door of a 41 sedan (I suspect is the same for late 30s through 42 at least)? My car fuel door is loose and I think is missing some type of torsion spring to keep the door open and to to keeep it tight when close.

I have not found anything in the Parts Book, body manual or shop manual. Even if you have other close years to a 1941 please post a photo of your fuel gas door spring so I can use as a reference to search for a spring. Thank you. Manuel
Old Feb 2, 2021 | 05:05 PM
  #2  
Yellowstatue's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,086
From: Too close to Toronto!!
Group 8.209 Spring, rear fender fuel tank filler door...1941-1948/all...right # 415250: left # 415251. CATALOGUE #342. Try that...
Old Feb 2, 2021 | 07:48 PM
  #3  
Doctor's Olds's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 86
Originally Posted by Yellowstatue
Group 8.209 Spring, rear fender fuel tank filler door...1941-1948/all...right # 415250: left # 415251. CATALOGUE #342. Try that...
Yeah, I found in the Parts Book with the number you provided. Who would imagine the index lists this spring as REAR FENDER DOOR ! I look for it under FUEL and GAS and missed it. Will have to learn to navigate this book.

The problem is that there is no picture. The part # alone can't help to search for an aftermarket spring or to make one from scratch. For that I will need a picture. Can someone post one please? Based on the Parts Book the springs will fit only 1941 cars. Thank you

Spoiler
 
Old Feb 3, 2021 | 09:58 AM
  #4  
Yellowstatue's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,086
From: Too close to Toronto!!
My book goes 1938-1951. I wrote it as it appears in my book. Fits 1941-1948.
Old Feb 3, 2021 | 07:21 PM
  #5  
Doctor's Olds's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 86
Originally Posted by Yellowstatue
My book goes 1938-1951. I wrote it as it appears in my book. Fits 1941-1948.
OK, thank you. My parts book is only for 1941. I am glad it is the same for 41-48 so I have a better chance of finding one.
Old Feb 6, 2021 | 07:31 AM
  #6  
Tedd Thompson's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,743
From: Forest Ranch Ca.
Like you I don't know what it looks like but coil springs can be made from scratch with piano wire stock. I've never made a heavy duty spring as I think this must be but I'm sure a good gunsmith could do it given enough time and of course money. Do you know if it is a two piece part or a single spring that makes the lid stay shut?....Tedd
Old Feb 6, 2021 | 09:39 AM
  #7  
Yellowstatue's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,086
From: Too close to Toronto!!
The book gives two part numbers, left and right, so two springs I would think.
Old Feb 6, 2021 | 11:32 AM
  #8  
Doctor's Olds's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 86
Originally Posted by Tedd Thompson
Like you I don't know what it looks like but coil springs can be made from scratch with piano wire stock. I've never made a heavy duty spring as I think this must be but I'm sure a good gunsmith could do it given enough time and of course money. Do you know if it is a two piece part or a single spring that makes the lid stay shut?....Tedd
There are 2 springs and they are mirror image of each other. It is a torsion spring, it keeps the lid shut when down and keeps up when open. Very clever design. I visited a junk yard yesterday and found a 46-48 Pontiac looking neglected. I learned some of the 40s Pontiacs share this part. I was so excited to see the springs when I opened the fuel door but when I went to the office to buy them I was told the car was just sold as a project and not able to take any parts from it !!!! Ouch ! The springs look simple and I made one last evening using a generic one from the hardware store that I heated and reshaped to fit. It does the job but the spring is not tight in place and bounces all over the place. I think is because of imprecise shape and curves on the attachments. Will keep looking for original ones and will try my skills again later this weekend

Notice that the torsion springs with straight legs sold at hardware stores have the coiling only in the direction seen on the R spring. I could not find one with the coiling needed for fabricating the L spring so far.

Spoiler
 
Spoiler
 
Old Feb 7, 2021 | 09:02 AM
  #9  
Tedd Thompson's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,743
From: Forest Ranch Ca.
When you heated the spring (anything much over 700 degrease) will take the temper out of it and it will soon bend in that spot. It will need to be re tempered. If you get a good pattern made I can tell you an easier way to do the tempering that has worked well for me but on lighter spring stock. Just give me a PM or a call 530-228-6504 and I can walk you through it, it's really pretty simple and easy...Tedd
Old Feb 7, 2021 | 12:27 PM
  #10  
Doctor's Olds's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 86
Originally Posted by Tedd Thompson
When you heated the spring (anything much over 700 degrease) will take the temper out of it and it will soon bend in that spot. It will need to be re tempered. If you get a good pattern made I can tell you an easier way to do the tempering that has worked well for me but on lighter spring stock. Just give me a PM or a call 530-228-6504 and I can walk you through it, it's really pretty simple and easy...Tedd
Thank youTedd!! Sure, I will call, very kind of you.

This is the spring I fabricated. Got 2 from my local hardware store, shown on the L. The coil diameter is much smaller than the original. I heated it with a small propane torch (no clue what temp that is) and the metal became hot red and I shaped it (shown on the right below) as close to the photos of the original spring that I posted earlier. Had to reheat many times to achieve a similar pattern. When I obtained what it seems was the best possible shape, I heated once more and immediately dropped in a can with water. The magic web told me to do so to have the metal retempered. Don't know if that is true and I'm glad Tedd will give me some additional tips on how to try it again. More home-made impossible and of course is not perfect. The spring wobbles in place and does not work well because is lacking the counterpart tension on the other side and also perhaps because the diameter of the coil is significantly smaller than the original.

No coil available with the mirror image to fabricate one for the L side. If anyone knows a vendor who may have one please post.

Thank you for your comments! Manuel
Spoiler
 

Old Feb 7, 2021 | 02:54 PM
  #11  
Tedd Thompson's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,743
From: Forest Ranch Ca.
Doc, This is what I see from here. First you will need spring wire or something with a high carbon content (piano wire) and it needs to be the same diameter or close to it as the original. Make your pattern as you did before to a finished shape. I've never uses propane always a gas welding setup but if you got it to a cherry red that may work. I like to quench in just regular motor oil and not water. Water seems to quench to quickly and cause hard/ brittle spots. Heat the whole spring as close as you can to the same color. cherry red, You might do this on a piece of metal flat iron/ angle/ iron to get it to heat even. It can't be discolored any where. Now quench by dropping it into the oil quickly. The spring will be hard at this point, to hard to be flexible it needs to be drawn back to what we call a dark straw color and that is achieved by using a metal container (big tuna can) about 1 inch in depth (enough depth to completely cover your springs in. You can use the same oil as the quench oil if you want. Do this in a well ventilated area. To draw it back with your springs submerged, now light the oil in the tuna can. You will have to keep lighting the oil at first because it will keep going out till it gets hot enough to keep burning on it's self. Let it burn all the way out then set till it is cool enough to pick up with your hands. Clean it up with steel wool and hopeful it will be as good as the original. Call me should you have any questions....Tedd

Last edited by Tedd Thompson; Feb 7, 2021 at 03:15 PM.
Old Feb 8, 2021 | 10:58 PM
  #12  
Doctor's Olds's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 86
Originally Posted by Tedd Thompson
Doc, This is what I see from here. First you will need spring wire or something with a high carbon content (piano wire) and it needs to be the same diameter or close to it as the original. Make your pattern as you did before to a finished shape. I've never uses propane always a gas welding setup but if you got it to a cherry red that may work. I like to quench in just regular motor oil and not water. Water seems to quench to quickly and cause hard/ brittle spots. Heat the whole spring as close as you can to the same color. cherry red, You might do this on a piece of metal flat iron/ angle/ iron to get it to heat even. It can't be discolored any where. Now quench by dropping it into the oil quickly. The spring will be hard at this point, to hard to be flexible it needs to be drawn back to what we call a dark straw color and that is achieved by using a metal container (big tuna can) about 1 inch in depth (enough depth to completely cover your springs in. You can use the same oil as the quench oil if you want. Do this in a well ventilated area. To draw it back with your springs submerged, now light the oil in the tuna can. You will have to keep lighting the oil at first because it will keep going out till it gets hot enough to keep burning on it's self. Let it burn all the way out then set till it is cool enough to pick up with your hands. Clean it up with steel wool and hopeful it will be as good as the original. Call me should you have any questions....Tedd
Thank you, that is a very thorough description of the process. I will follow it to the letter and see what comes up. First, I had to order the music wire online. The only one available locally I found today at Hobby Lobby, but is very thin compared to the original. It is only 0.039" and I estimate should be at least 0.055". I will let you know how it works after I receive it and give a try.
Old Feb 9, 2021 | 07:44 AM
  #13  
Tedd Thompson's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,743
From: Forest Ranch Ca.
If a steel supply around you you can probably get it from Midway or Brownell's gunsmith supplies.... Make several as this is always a gamble but very doable.... Good luck ...Tedd
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
chrisneu68olds
General Discussion
0
Apr 13, 2016 02:11 PM
pauls48
The Newbie Forum
3
Aug 28, 2015 05:57 AM
pauls48
Vintage Oldsmobiles
8
Jul 25, 2015 04:29 PM
navvet
General Discussion
7
Feb 11, 2015 09:33 PM
crazy'boutOlds
Parts For Sale
0
Sep 26, 2011 03:18 PM




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:15 PM.