Gas tank door spring
Gas tank door spring
Can somebody post a photo of the closure mechanism of the fuel tank door of a 41 sedan (I suspect is the same for late 30s through 42 at least)? My car fuel door is loose and I think is missing some type of torsion spring to keep the door open and to to keeep it tight when close.
I have not found anything in the Parts Book, body manual or shop manual. Even if you have other close years to a 1941 please post a photo of your fuel gas door spring so I can use as a reference to search for a spring. Thank you. Manuel
I have not found anything in the Parts Book, body manual or shop manual. Even if you have other close years to a 1941 please post a photo of your fuel gas door spring so I can use as a reference to search for a spring. Thank you. Manuel
The problem is that there is no picture. The part # alone can't help to search for an aftermarket spring or to make one from scratch. For that I will need a picture. Can someone post one please? Based on the Parts Book the springs will fit only 1941 cars. Thank you
Spoiler
Like you I don't know what it looks like but coil springs can be made from scratch with piano wire stock. I've never made a heavy duty spring as I think this must be but I'm sure a good gunsmith could do it given enough time and of course money. Do you know if it is a two piece part or a single spring that makes the lid stay shut?....Tedd
Like you I don't know what it looks like but coil springs can be made from scratch with piano wire stock. I've never made a heavy duty spring as I think this must be but I'm sure a good gunsmith could do it given enough time and of course money. Do you know if it is a two piece part or a single spring that makes the lid stay shut?....Tedd
Notice that the torsion springs with straight legs sold at hardware stores have the coiling only in the direction seen on the R spring. I could not find one with the coiling needed for fabricating the L spring so far.
Spoiler
Spoiler
When you heated the spring (anything much over 700 degrease) will take the temper out of it and it will soon bend in that spot. It will need to be re tempered. If you get a good pattern made I can tell you an easier way to do the tempering that has worked well for me but on lighter spring stock. Just give me a PM or a call 530-228-6504 and I can walk you through it, it's really pretty simple and easy...Tedd
When you heated the spring (anything much over 700 degrease) will take the temper out of it and it will soon bend in that spot. It will need to be re tempered. If you get a good pattern made I can tell you an easier way to do the tempering that has worked well for me but on lighter spring stock. Just give me a PM or a call 530-228-6504 and I can walk you through it, it's really pretty simple and easy...Tedd
This is the spring I fabricated. Got 2 from my local hardware store, shown on the L. The coil diameter is much smaller than the original. I heated it with a small propane torch (no clue what temp that is) and the metal became hot red and I shaped it (shown on the right below) as close to the photos of the original spring that I posted earlier. Had to reheat many times to achieve a similar pattern. When I obtained what it seems was the best possible shape, I heated once more and immediately dropped in a can with water. The magic web told me to do so to have the metal retempered. Don't know if that is true and I'm glad Tedd will give me some additional tips on how to try it again. More home-made impossible and of course is not perfect. The spring wobbles in place and does not work well because is lacking the counterpart tension on the other side and also perhaps because the diameter of the coil is significantly smaller than the original.
No coil available with the mirror image to fabricate one for the L side. If anyone knows a vendor who may have one please post.
Thank you for your comments! Manuel
Spoiler
Doc, This is what I see from here. First you will need spring wire or something with a high carbon content (piano wire) and it needs to be the same diameter or close to it as the original. Make your pattern as you did before to a finished shape. I've never uses propane always a gas welding setup but if you got it to a cherry red that may work. I like to quench in just regular motor oil and not water. Water seems to quench to quickly and cause hard/ brittle spots. Heat the whole spring as close as you can to the same color. cherry red, You might do this on a piece of metal flat iron/ angle/ iron to get it to heat even. It can't be discolored any where. Now quench by dropping it into the oil quickly. The spring will be hard at this point, to hard to be flexible it needs to be drawn back to what we call a dark straw color and that is achieved by using a metal container (big tuna can) about 1 inch in depth (enough depth to completely cover your springs in. You can use the same oil as the quench oil if you want. Do this in a well ventilated area. To draw it back with your springs submerged, now light the oil in the tuna can. You will have to keep lighting the oil at first because it will keep going out till it gets hot enough to keep burning on it's self. Let it burn all the way out then set till it is cool enough to pick up with your hands. Clean it up with steel wool and hopeful it will be as good as the original. Call me should you have any questions....Tedd
Last edited by Tedd Thompson; Feb 7, 2021 at 03:15 PM.
Doc, This is what I see from here. First you will need spring wire or something with a high carbon content (piano wire) and it needs to be the same diameter or close to it as the original. Make your pattern as you did before to a finished shape. I've never uses propane always a gas welding setup but if you got it to a cherry red that may work. I like to quench in just regular motor oil and not water. Water seems to quench to quickly and cause hard/ brittle spots. Heat the whole spring as close as you can to the same color. cherry red, You might do this on a piece of metal flat iron/ angle/ iron to get it to heat even. It can't be discolored any where. Now quench by dropping it into the oil quickly. The spring will be hard at this point, to hard to be flexible it needs to be drawn back to what we call a dark straw color and that is achieved by using a metal container (big tuna can) about 1 inch in depth (enough depth to completely cover your springs in. You can use the same oil as the quench oil if you want. Do this in a well ventilated area. To draw it back with your springs submerged, now light the oil in the tuna can. You will have to keep lighting the oil at first because it will keep going out till it gets hot enough to keep burning on it's self. Let it burn all the way out then set till it is cool enough to pick up with your hands. Clean it up with steel wool and hopeful it will be as good as the original. Call me should you have any questions....Tedd
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