Currently my engine is torn down to a bare block, I plan on dropping it off at the machine shop in the next few weeks, I plan on having the cylinders honed/resized if necessary, crank polished, heads rebuilt, from the people who have done this rebuild before, should I get new connecting rods or reuse the old ones? What other things should I specifically look out for or need the machinist to look out for?

any info is greatly appreciated, I plan on building the engine myself after the machine work is done.

 

Unless they are damaged there is no need for new connecting rods. The replacement of the rod bearings (often called inserts) should be all that is needed. Good luck with your rebuild.

 

I can’t imagine any Standard aftermarket rods would be better than the originals.

 

Well, that depends on what your plans are for this build but for a cruiser/ original build stock is very good. If you want to impress the bow tie group Ross Racing is your guy for speed equipment, but it does cost a bunch to go that way..... Tedd

 

Nothing crazy, going to try to keep it stock, just a weekend cruiser.

 

Have engine components balanced including harmonic balancer an torus if equipped with Hydralmatic transmission

 

While you have the engine out detail the engine bay never will it be easier than right now to get it in shape. Working around the firewall with the engine in is a pain also now is a good time to find all the oil leaks on that transmission that is if it is out or just reseal everything you can get to. Hows your wiring? Might rebuild your starter, generator and power steering pump now. Pretty easy for me to spend someone else's money but when I look back I wish I had taken some of my own advice. Mines mostly new everywhere but it came with a large grief factor of having to do a lot off it after the engine install..... Lost in the fifties...Tedd

 

It’s funny you should mention that, I was playing the scenario out the other day in my head of the engine in and running and how cool it would be........then it dawned on me, that pump is going to leak, the steering gearbox is for sure going to leak too!!!

the wiring looks great, nothing cooked or chewed through so that’s a plus, there is a local guy who does starter/generators and does a great job.

im hoping by the spring of 2021 it’ll be moving under its own power.

 

Forgot to mention, this is what needs to be done when the 2 of the pistons won't move in the bore. What a pain!! And when you think all the oil is out of the torus, its not.

 

That is exactly why I don'r buy stuck first generation engines..... Tedd

 

Just curious how did you get to the rod bolts that are rotated behind the block ? Or did the stuck pistons just happened to get stuck on the down stroke where you could get to the bolts, Just thinking out loud .... Tedd

 

OMG !
I don't think I've ever seen anyone disassemble an engine that way WOW !
It's a wonder you were able to get to all the rod bolts .
Stock rods are perfectly OK . But you should have the big ends re-sized . And maybe the small ends re-bushed .
Your machinist should be able to do this .

 

Luckily for me the pistons that were stuck (the middle 2 on the passenger side) were in a position where I could easily get to the rod nuts and i could remove the other pistons to where i could slightly rotate the crank to be able to get all the nuts off, not something i'm looking forward to doing any time soon!! Pistons measure to 3.875 so they are the OEM size. More to come in the near future. Gotta finish the head gasket on my old trusty 1991 Mercedes 300SEL first, too many projects!!

 

i found my notes from some 20-years ago.
Schneider Racing Cams: (619) 297-0227
1235 Cushman Ave, #9
San Diego, CA 92110
SD $50 regrind cam for 10% power

Berry Cam Service (320) 395-2377-Scott
SD $75 regrind cam

Daytona Turbo Action Cams (386) 676-7478 (Neil Coburn)
1109 N US HIGHWAY 1 Ormond beach, Florida, 32174
True Roller Timing Chain $85
Oil Pump Kit $45
Regrind Cam $90 + $50 core 214 @. 50
New Cam $300 222 @. 50 .450=lift

Use 352 Ford Valve Springs/Ohio Stock Pistons

54-56 use same intake gaskets
--------------------------------------------------------
Alternate Valve Train for 324 V-8:

Lifters- Chevy small block Crane-#99277-16 $70 but will need shorter pushrods
Push Rod Length-9.125 (5/16 x 9.125)
Intake Valves-Chevy 305 1.720” 11/32nd
Exhaust Valves-Chevy truck heavy duty hardened
Valve Springs-Ford 1979-83 302
Valve Spring Retainers-Ford 429 11/32nd $40
Exhaust Valve Seals-Chrysler 318
Mopar BB rod bolts can be used
Deepen the oil return grooves and polish them on the heads, too much oil stays up top
56 324 have better flowing heads, had taller intake ports, bigger valves, but same deck height and bigger cam journals
57-64 Distributor, just swap gear and use external adj. points

 

I had to do the same thing the other day when I disassembled a couple 324s I bought. One was locked solid and had thrown a rod. Only way to get the hydro off was to pull the block off the crank. My father in law walked in my shop and asked if I disassembled the engine with dynamite lol.

 

I can't wonder how much overbore it will take to clean up the badly rusted cylinders with stuck pistons .
Oh well , these 324's can be bored to 4 inches and use 371 pistons .
This will make a 346 , and will give you at least half a point more compression too .

 

Oh $@&#%...i know my 54 is hydralocked!
...planning to pull sump this week
neighbors will be calling Sheriff!

 

are you sure it is just hydra locked? Usually you can work around that unless bad things happened to the lower end..... Tedd

 

Im not sure about nothin...except taxes...
i do know water down carberator was involved !$@%
cars 2 hrs away, if im lucky sump will show somethin easy...yeah right!

 

54 Rocket, I don't think it's hydra locked unless it was under water but if water got into the intake it sure could be rust stuck.

You might try removing all the plugs and add a 1/2 oz of Marvel mystery oil or acetone/ ATF down all the holes let it set as long as you can then turn it over with a socket and a long bar. Maybe it will budge, maybe it won't. but going the other way is way more time consuming and risky. If all the pistons are stuck it is almost impossible to save the block/crank.... Tedd

 

T: yeah, already soaked it for couple months...Mystery oil, Kroil, ATF etc ...
And ... asked it *&^%$ nicely ...!
appears that oil dropping straight thru # 1 to sump

 

Everything is at the machine shop, cylinders need .030 over, not too bad, crank main and connecting rods .010 under. One head had a crack but I had another set which turned out to be good. I ordered most of what I need at least to finish the bottom end, I have VL-40 lifters which from what I have searched should fit but my stock lifters are 2.00” in total length and the VL-40 ones I received are shorter at 1.860” long. I have a 54 engine in the garage and those lifters are 2.00” also. Does anyone know the correct length of a stock 1955 lifter? My cam journal diameter is 1.872” right on the money, that should indicate it’s not a 56’ block but I think 56 uses the same lifter anyway. This one has me scratching my head.

 

You need to measure from the end that rides on the cam to the conical end inside to make any comparison. Thats what counts. You might need a 5/16" or 3/8" ball bearing to measure correctly. The overall length means nothing.

 

Also measure the difference in the oil detent( wrong word but it's late and I can't think of it) and see if the 324 original lifter is close to the same spot on the new lifter other wise you will have to adjust the pushrod length if it is more than 80 thousands shorter. You have about that much travel to play with. Anyone please correct me if I'm not thinking straight tonight....Tedd

 

Thanks guys, can’t believe I didn’t catch that!!

just measured it at work with a depth gauge, the plunger height on the new lifter is about .063” higher than the original.

 

I think Tedd might be referring to the "indent" (groove). Location from bottom of the lifter, width of the groove and hole in the lifter would be important too. Thanks to Tedd for bringing that up.