I finally chipped away at enough of the issues with this car to the point where I had to make a decision as to the master cylinder.

The single pot was leaking and filling the booster - still worked but not a feeling of overwhelming confidence driving around wondering if the pedal would be there next time I used it.

Rebuilds of these units are expensive (and this one was already rebuilt) - and at the end of the day you still have a single reservoir.

Of course, with an all original car I didn't want to slap some eBay booster / master assembly on the firewall...AND since I'm not racing the car, the giant drums stop the car just fine so I'm not looking to do disc brake swaps, etc.

So..I bought a booster and master cylinder for a '66 Cadillac - a similar sized car with 4 wheel drums and a similar style booster mounting.

I had to make a spacer bracket to offset the Cadillac booster off the firewall to get the pushrod in the right location, but no modifications were required to the car.

As for the hydraulics, I used the same distribution block in the same location and just plugged the rear outlet and instead attached the rear line to the appropriate spot on the master.

Pics tell most of the story - most people likely won't ever know it's not "Correct" - and I have the OE parts on the shelf should I ever wish to go back.

Car stops great and since the F- R pressure distribution was 'metered' by the different sized front / rear wheel cylinders there was no need for metering valves, residual pressure valves or anything of the sort.

Stops short of a Plug-And-Play install, but not very complicated with very good results.

Figured it might help someone who was in a similar situation.
Original setup - notice the weeping down the front of the booster

Pushrod at the pedal measures 3-1/2" off the back face of the booster - I needed a spacer to accomplish this

Simple spacer - one side drilled to secure the booster, the other to bolt through the firewall. Scrap steel shapes, a few bolts, and a welder.

Old booster (left) comparison

Old booster (right) with new booster and spacer. Note the eyelet for the pedal isn't threaded on to the new booster in this pic, but when installed the eyelet location is the same

Original Master and Distribution block

Comparison of the Old (left) vs the New (right) after paining the booster to match OE. Distribution block is in the original location.

 

I am looking for dual master for mine, have 1949 olds with master cyl and booster from 1978 cutlass, but rear brakes grab because i have all drum brakes. Looking for dual master from 1960 GM. car.

 

Olds dad,

I see you installed a power booster with a check valve already installed on it. Did you connect a hose back to the reserve tank located in the fender? Do you think you would need that reserve tank if there is a check valve already holding air in the power booster?

Rich

 

I did keep the reserve tank…never gave it much thought because I was trying to keep it as original looking as possible. I’m not sure when they stopped using reserve canisters - I’m thinking maybe as a redundancy since the pedal ratio on some of these isn’t great so they wanted to make sure you had the vacuum.

I think it would work fine without one as long as you have a good vacuum source - now I’m curious about whether or not the Cadillac that setup is from used a reserve canister or not.

I drove the car tonight and it still brakes straight and effortlessly like it should. Those giant drums work great as long as they’re dry and cool

 

Gordon,

Thanks for the quick response. After speaking to a few people I think i'll keep the reserve tank connected for extra safety.

Rich

 

I'm subscribing to look back later for my upgrade to my 62 98.
Should be the same deal.