Just got my car (55 Super 88) back from the tranny shop where I had the bands adjusted. There was no improvement in the hard shift from second to third gear. The mechanic (86 years young), says the linkage from the tranny to the carburetor is out of adjustment. He didn’t take the time to try to adjust that because the tranny really needs some internal work done. He mentioned $2000. He thought spending time and money on the linkage would be a waste with the other work needing to be done.
Question one - Does anyone have a source for the linkage adjusting gauges necessary to realign the linkage?
Question two - Does $2000 sound about right for a tranny overhaul?

I thought that if I had the gauges, I could spend some time adjusting the linkages and postpone the overhaul until I can convince my wife how much more the car will be worth when she sells it after my demise.

 

I thought there was same concern about harsh shifting and a reply by @Charlie Jones or @OLDSter Ralph about GREAT information in a "Motors Repair Manual" on adjusting the linkage from the transmission to the carburetor, maybe if they see this they will list what year Motors manual it was.

Your shop manual will list tool numbers of what tool is needed, I believe New Britain tool number is ATL-2 is a universal one used on Cadillac, Pontiac, and Oldsmobile.


Bob

 

Not me.

 

I don't think that tool is the secrete sauce to your worries. I don't know any tool that is a quick fix, most of the adjustments are from the bell crank to the bottom of the transmission adjuster nut. A little will do a lot on this nut, go past where it should be and you will lose a gear or the duration of a shift. Too tight and you will lose a shift on the other end. The shift from second to third is nor torus for a hard shift under power and probably will not get real smooth like a TH 400 ever.. Tedd

 

If I remember correctly, it was in the 1963 Motor's Auto Repair Manual.
I believe they stated that the lever on the side of the trans should be all the way forward against the internal stop when the throttle is at curb idle. (not on fast idle cam)
And the lever should be all the way back against the internal stop with the throttle wide open.

 

Thanks for these suggestions. The mechanic has convinced me to “go through” the transmission. He found considerable brass filings in the pan and black clutch flakes in the filter screen. Still wondering if $2000 sounds about right.

 

The FIRST thing you do is find someone that has done more than one of these transmissions, Then you can sort them out based on price.

 

$2000 sounds like a bargain to me.
Especially if the quote included parts. FATSCO Transmissions wants $504 for a rebuild kit,
1955-1956 Oldsmobile Hydramatic Rebuild Kits (H102A-Z) (fatsco.net)
and the trans may need additional parts.
You are indeed fortunate to find an 86 year old fellow that still wants to work on a transmission. I'm sure at that age, he has the experience.
A modern transmission overhaul could easily top $2000. Even $2000 for labor alone is a bargain because you have found someone who knows how to do the job right.

 

My “guy” started work on an old Hudson transmission in the late ‘50’s and has been working on them ever since. He said their get their parts from Fatsco. I’m taking it in on August 29. I’ll post the costs when they’re finished.

 

The Hudson also has a Slant Pan in it , he should be filmier with your transmission... Tedd

 

I just paid $3000 for my 48 Hydra-matic to be re-done.....

 

I don't suppose you are anywhere in N California? I'm tired of mine leaking......can you tell me where you got the work done?

Anyone have a suggestion for a slant pan overhaul in N CA?

Thanks.

 

Check your PM.

 

Got it, thanks.

 

If the $2,000 includes parts you are getting a bargain. And the fact the guy is 86 years old is a plus because just about anybody that has any experience working on these things is old. When I had my 54 I had the transmission in it rebuilt in 2017. It cost me $2,000 for the guy to rebuild it and $400 for a shop to pull it and reinstall it. The guy was in his late 70's at that time and has since passed away. I knew there would come a time when it was near impossible to find anybody with the knowledge to rebuild one. I sold the car last December. The transmission still worked perfect and did not drip a drop.

 

Here's mine:

 

DFitz ,I have my transmission done by Transamatic in Chico, California. Mac the original owner has retired, but he had his foreman ,now the new owner, working alongside of him on my transmission. I'll try and get you a phone number, I was just in there yesterday getting a appointment for a transmission fluid change for the Money Pit..Tedd Found it 530-343-0836

 

Sorry. I’m in south central Kansas. That’d be a awful long commute.

 

Update. I’ve been trying an adjustment at the carburetor end of the linkage. I’ve been turning it 180 degrees, half a turn, at a time. I’ve turned it clockwise nine times (4 1/2 complete turns) looking toward the back of the car. I thought the 2 - 3 shift was getting better. But I think it was wishful thinking. Tomorrow, I’m going to turn it back where it was and try a few counterclockwise turns to see if that makes it better. I’m trying to avoid having to jack up the car to get to the adjustment on the side of the transmission. We’ll see.

 

Tedd, Thanks, I'll give them a call.

 

If you can get the car up even as much as a floor lift jack will go, you can reach under and feel that nut. That adjustment should move the actuator back far enough to catch park, may help your 2-3 shift some. That would be my advice, rather than jump into a transmission over haul without trying a simple adjustment. These transmissions are robust transmission and can take a lot of abuse. Just my thoughts...Tedd

 

This is where the carb/tranny linkage connects to the side of the transmission. I don’t see an adjusting nut. Am I looking in the wrong place?

 

The throttle valve linkage adjustment on a 55 is up near the carb.

 

I don’t know if it makes a difference or not buy on my car, the linkage appears to be reversed. The open end (on the left here) is on the other end. I screwed it all the way in - no change in 2 to 3 shift and all the way out - still no change. There must be something else wrong somewhere. The bands have been adjusted, the fluid is at the correct level, and everything appears to be normal. If I “baby” the throttle on the 2 to 3 shift, it does go smoothly. But if I maintain steady throttle pressure it has that bit of an engine surge and then the shift. 1 to 2 and 3 to 4 all work smoothly even under steady throttle pressure. I don’t know where to go next. My wife even asked if I wanted to sell it and buy a different one. Not really sure if she was serious or if she just didn’t want me to notice the new clothes she had just bought.

 

Just curious,,,,,,but do you have a 55 Olds shop manual? Pages 3-95 thru 3-98

 

Final update on the transmission/carburetor linkage problem and the hard shift between 2nd and 3rd gears. I was looking at the linkage on the car and at the picture, Figure 3-197, in my maintenance manual at the same time. I know - why didn’t I do that long ago? I noticed that Rod Assembly “O” was resting up against the valve cover. It was not attached to Bellcrank E. I’m surprised it worked at all. I attached it with a nut and bolt to give it a test drive. Works like a charm either on slow acceleration and on hard acceleration. I will replace the bolt with a clevis pin when the hardware store opens tomorrow. I am left with a bit of a hard downshift back to 1st when I stop. I suspect that will go away with a little adjustment on Rod A or a turn of the stop screw “M” on the downshift lever “B” ( Figure 3-183). Thank you all for the various solutions that have been offered. Next time I have a problem, somebody needs to ask “Is everything attached?”

 

Yes. My manual is for 1955. Some page numbers have been found to vary slightly in my book compared to others. I believe my car was born in Canada and thus has a slightly different page numbering system than its American cousins. The seemingly backward linkage hookup I referred to was the diagram from Charlie Jones. It is a little different from the diagram in my manual. Frankly, the differences in the linkage pictures is what got me looking for other discrepancies. I’m wondering if my mechanic removed this connection when he replaced the valve cover gaskets and simply forgot to reattach it. I’m not looking for anyone to blame - it could have happened years ago. I’m just glad it’s working now. That little clevis pin may have saved me a few thousand dollars in transmission repair.

 

Good for you Dave. Glad you got it working.

 

Gents, and I have made a mistake (probably several times in the past also). In my mind, I could see that adjuster nut at the bottom of the transmission lever as though I have been looking at it yesterday. NOT SO! Don't know where that image came from, but it was wrong. Sorry for any confusion, extra work I may have created.... Tedd

 

No problems caused here. It simply caused me to look more closely for that adjusting nut. I ultimately found it with help from others as well. Thanks to all.