After barely limping home with my 56 Olds, popping back and running horrible, I took off the carb and it went out for a rebuild. The guy I took it to is really good and has been doing these a long time He said the accelerator pump seal had deteriorated and a lot of gum build up was found. Last rebuild was about four years ago. He asked me what kind of additives I was using and I told him Marine Stabil. He said do not use any additives. This ethanol crap is giving me a fit. Have you guys had any success with any other additive or should I just try to find ethanol free, which the closest station to me is about 30 miles away.
Thanks,
Rick

 

MemberTedd Thompson had the same issue with his accelerator pump. You might check with him on where he got his replacement that worked. See threads below:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ful-point.html

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...p-problem.html

 

Well as noted on the links above I'm still running with that leather accelerator pump cup probably 1970 era vintage and loving it. No issues and fun to drive, sorry I didn't have a common easy fix to recommend, there is one out there but I just ran out of patience to find it..... Tedd

 

Thanks Eric and Tedd ! He replaced the light blue cup with a leather one so I hope that does help. I will put it back on the car today. I will let you know how it goes.
Rick

 

I usually leave my fuel tank mostly empty. Since I only drive my Olds on the weekends I just add a few gallons of gas before cruising. This ensures that the fuel is mostly new. Of course, if you can find ethanol free gas that's a plus but I know it's not available everywhere.

 

 

I never use additives, mostly because I don't think I need them for the way I use my car. If I stored it for months that is a different issue.

Let us know if your carb guy gives you a good rebuild and what accelerator pump he uses..... Tedd

 

Well I got the carb back on and now it will not start. I had pulled the distributor to check it over and I must have it out of time now. I will keep you posted. We are finally getting some sunshine here so I will do some outside chores to get away from the car for a while!
Rick

 

Popping through the carburetor is usually an ignition problem, not a fuel problem, as evidenced by your no start issue after a carburetor rebuild.
Timing doesn't go out by itself, but does change slightly with the wearing of the points. Most likely you have an ignition problem, such as worn ignition points, or something more serious, such as a bad timing chain and gears? If it doesn't start after having the carburetor rebuilt, then I have to ask what else has changed? Take the distributor cap off, and remove the #1 spark plug, and then turn the crankshaft till the timing mark is at top dead center on number 1 plug. Observe where the distributor rotor is pointing. It should be pointing directly at the number 1 plug on the distributor cap. If it is not pointing towards the #1 plug, you have a timing chain / gear problem.
Another problem might be a bad or weak ignition coil, bad spark plug wires, cracked or carbon tracked distributor cap, bad rotor, or points and/or condenser. Never assume that a part is bad, until you properly diagnose the problem and establish the root cause of the problem.

 

Thanks Junkman, I will follow your troubleshooting tips. I just replaced the points, plugs, condenser,wires, rotor and cap. The spark is weak. I pulled the distributor to recheck every thing and I might have gotten it back in a tooth off. Any thought on the Harmonic Balancer? I have never had mine rebuilt. I appreciate all the help. At my age climbing into the engine is a real chore.
Rick

 

It is possible that the harmonic balancer could be off, however, it isn't that difficult to check. There are 2 hash marks on the harmonic balancer that should be in alignment. If you find that the hash marks are not in alignment, it needs to be replaced or rebuilt. If you think that it might be the timing chain, then that is an easy check for this. Putting a socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt, move the pulley to one direction, and observe the rotor pointer. Then turn the pulley in the reverse direction, and if the rotor pointer doesn't instantly react, there is slop in the timing chain. If you set the timing mark on the top dead center mark, or for that matter any other line on the timing mark, you can see how many degrees the chain "slop" has. There is a way to do this with a dial back timing light also, but it is more complicated that will just confuse you more. One other thing to check, is the centrifugal advance springs, to see if either or both have fallen off. Since you have pulled the distributor, it is imperative that you make sure that it is properly installed, by bringing the #1 cylinder to top dead center, and the rotor pointer placed exactly under the #1 terminal on the distributor cap.

 

Thanks Again Junkman! I took a break from it today. I will let you know what I find when I get back to it.
Rick

 

Junkman- I got the distributor back in and I put a new coil on. It fired right up. I will set dwell and timing today!
Thanks for you help!
Rick