Unless there is an internal O ring at the speedometer's driven gear it may not be possible to seal it out on the Jetaway. Just be sure not to overfill the transmission. The good news is that even if it washes out the graphite the lubrication duty will be replaced by the transmission fluid.

 

There is an internal o ring I'm told by the old guy who used to rebuild them in the dealerships but I don't know the size.. I'm thinking for just a couple drops maybe I'll just leave it alone.. I'm hoping my speedo is ok because once I pulled the old cable out despite looking horrible and being stuck to the point where it won't come out of the outer it does seem to spin fine. We shall see tomorrow I guess.

 

Also I noticed when I hit the brakes a little hard I hear a moaning noise which sounds like it could be from the booster area.. It was supposedly rebuilt not long ago though. Any ideas on that? Thanks!

 

If you ever did want to change that O ring just take it out carefully and bring it to one of those shops that deal with hydraulic devices and tell them how it's used. They will be able to provide a replacement.

 

A rebuilt anything is only as good as the re-builder. It appears that there was a Moraine and a Bendix system. Both are covered well in the shop manual. I should let someone else comment on your moan as my experience is on the standard brakes for this vehicle.

 

You can tell if your booster is failing or the valve in the line is bad by pulling the vacuum line lose from the booster tank after a startup. There should be the sound of in rushing air. If no sound of air reattach and try it at the carb to see if the valve in the line is bad.

Generally if there is much of a leak anywhere you will have a hard pedal and poor brakes, this system is marginal to start off even when new. Your noise /sound maybe something as simple as dust in the drums.... Tedd

 

Thanks guys! I've been finishing some of these projects on the car but I hope to get it back on the road soon.

 

Hey guys! I thought I'd give a bit of an update on this issue. After replacing all the ball joints and still having the issue remain I started checking the rear end. I have a friend who used to work on these cars new at the dealership and he came by and stood outside as I backed up and the car made the noise. He said its clearly coming from the outer ends of the rear axle (near the wheels) and that because if it was more in the middle of the axle it wouldn't be so pronounced from the wheel. Also when backing up slowly for the first time after it had been sitting a month or so I actually felt the car very slightly/lightly grab a split second when it made the noise. Anyway he feels the issue is in the wheel bearings on the axle and occasionally they can act up cold and go away warm. I trust him completely with these cars he is extremely knowledgeable! My question is, do you guys know what the correct/best bearings are? There seems to be so many on eBay that show different numbers. Fusick lists bearings but they want about three times the eBay price per bearing!

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

 

Getting back to the noise......what kind of tires are you running? Bias ply tires tend to "square up" after sitting, especially in cold weather, which can cause some body noises.

 

I am running brand new American Classics but the problem was there with the old wheels and tires too so they are out of the question.

 

Go to a real auto parts store with a machine shop and order the correct U joints and have them installed, save the hassel of ordering the wrong ones on line,

 

The u joints are done I need to do the bearings in the rear.

 

Just washed the car, it's been sitting in the garage and collecting dust. It's driven about five miles since I last washed it and this time I noticed the rear pass side wheel had a bunch of black brake dust water come out! None of the others did.. so I'm thinking that is surely the side.

 

cmpcpro....no disrespect but, like several of suggested MANY post ago...did you pull the rear drums and look to see if all is intact???
Your throwing parts at it and speculating verses trouble shooting. Thats why you posted here for help. Your not taking our advice. How much work is it to pull the rear wheels and drums. Rear axle bearings as a (good) rule dont clank. Grumble, groan and grind yes.
My money is and has been all along on brake hardware or a delaminated shoe.

 

I agree with you on needing to pull the wheel, I've just been collecting the parts to freshen it up in there when I do so. I am going to do the brakes and probably wheel cylinders if needed along with the wheel bearings as I don't know when they were done so might as well start my own time line.

 

Let's all face it. If you didn't do the work yourself, any previous maintenance is suspect unless accompanied by documentation is questionable. If I didn't do it, it didn't happen.


Doing parts that probably need rework anyway is not a waste of time--these cars are old. I'm sure he has a list of stuff that need doing, and is doing it as he gets time, money and parts. Lots of things on my to do list I haven't had time to get to.


Asking for help and input is a great way to find common problems. In this specific case, looks like it was not a common problem. We are all here to help, and not criticize how we do our hobby.

 

Understand....For the love of GOD do not put JUNK china parts in your classic USA car....When you are ready to do the wheel bearings call BDI (Bearing Distributors Inc.) Google for a branch close to you. Insist on USA or other than chineasium bearings, races & seals. German, Swiss, Japan, Canadian are all fine. All others are junk and you'll be doing the same job again in a short order not mention inducing a possible safety hazard when the chineasium junk blows apart at speed. If the old USA bearings inspect ok. Just clean and regrease. Older is better in this case, especially today with the glut of inferior junk pushed in our faces at all retail big box houses of junk.

 

Exactly. The Chinese have made great strides in recent decades since the rickshaw and Mao's little red book fell out of favor, but there remains a significant shortfall in tolerances and material properties in auto parts and tools. I'd also show preference to the old USA components for now.

 

Thanks guys! I always go NOS if possible and next made in USA. Just wish I knew which bearings were correct

 

I'd put Slovenian and Czech into the "OK" category - They're countries with long histories of quality machine work, which supplied generations of immigrants to the US who became fine machinists.

- Eric