So, I am starting a new thread to document my 324 build. I will try to post as many pictures as I can. I am having a shop build the short block. I "could" do it, but I prefer the same folks that do the machine work to build the bottom end. I have been collecting parts for 3 months. I am now only waiting on pistons, rings, bearings, and the camshaft. I obviously had to wait for the initial machine work to be completed so I could order pistons and bearings.

I am doing an upgraded stock build, my '55 is mostly all original. I am sourcing a complete 324 here, as my 324 still runs, in fact driving it tonight to take the wife to a birthday dinner. This block and crank are still '55. The heads I will attempt to build are '56 # 10 heads. The block cleaned up at .060 over and the crankshaft at .010 on rods & mains.

Upgrades:
#10 heads: mild porting and blending, nothing too radical, hardened exhaust valve seats, all new guides and valves. I am going to attempt to reuse springs, but won't know until way later after they get assembled and can check seat pressure.
Camshaft: Camcraft 212 @.050, .495 lift HCR profile https://www.camcraftcams.com/wp-cont...s-4-12mod1.pdf
Timing Set: Ross Racing double roller with advance/retard keys
Pistons: Egge L2133 .060 over https://egge.com/product/egge-piston-set-with-pins-161/
Rear Main Seal: Best Gasket 3772 Rubber seal

Stock Stuff:
Rocker Shafts: stock, reuse everything, already cleaned and ready to go.
Pushrods: Will see if stock pushrods work after decking block and heads
Oil Pump: Have a stock cleaned up one within end play spec, but will put new gears and spring in it

Thank you John for core!

#6 cylinder had the worst pitting of all 8.

Bored .060 over, still needs honed. Im taking to get an extra hot tank tomorrow.

Here's the same #6 cylinder.

 

I'm glad to see the progress your making on this project!

 

Just wondering if Ross does pistons. Those Egges are famous for their low compression height and resultant reduced CR.

 

Probably, but budget-wise staying conservative. Ill post a pic of them when I get them tomorrow. The compression height is reported to be 1.875.

 

The block has one of these coolant passage plugs (like a freeze plug) on each side, I just removed them both before taking the block to get cooked and hot tanked. They are there to manage coolant flow from the factory. After removing them, there were presumably what I think are factory casting rod pieces down in there. I pulled them out.

 

I just read they are spikes so they don't drop down into the block. They were detached already. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...plugs.1219337/

 

Ok here are the pistons from Egge. They are indeed 1.875 for compression height. They look pretty nice.

 

These snap rings are way easier than other ones I have seen.

 

I cleaned up the rods, wire wheel, etc. Ready for recon. I ordered the small end bushings may or may not need them. The pins fit snug by hand but don't fall out.

 

Just got the block back from thermal cleaning. Wow!

 

Was the block bored before the pistons were in hand?

Yes the rods in post #4 look like casting supports.

That is a C L E A N block, it looks great.

 

No I waited until boring was completed before I bought the pistons. It was left .005 extra, new pistons will get honed in.

 

Madmax, with 0.060" over standard pistons I calculate your new displacement as 334 cubic inches.

I'm really interested in how this turns out. I have a couple 324 blocks that I will be building one of these days.
Wally

 

Yes me too! Interesting the 2nd Gen Olds 330 was 3.385 stroke & 3.938 bore. This will be 3.4375 stroke & 3.935 bore.

 

Dropped off my pistons, rods, and bearings with my machine shop. He still has to deck the block, recon my rods, then hone in pistons. I'm basically letting him build the short block minus the cam. I told him I'll try not to bug him, but I will! Lol

 

Got my cam today! Engine still at machine shop for a bit.

 

So still waiting on the machine shop with my block and crankshaft. In the meantime, I found a balancer finally and sent that to Damper Dudes. I also found an oil pan from a salvage yard in Minnesota, $200 bucks but I really need one. I want to build a complete motor as much as possible without have to remove and swap over everything. Once I pull my motor and trans, I want to do a quick swap. I will have my existing 324 that is original to the car as a fairly complete spare. I could always part it out after I get sick of storing it, we will see.

 

Don't put the seal in backwards!

 

Got the engine back from the machine shop! Short block minus cam and timing set. Will update soon!

 

Consider fogging the original engine to prepare it for its hibernation. Marine fogging fluid works well, it is tacky and clings to metal.

 

Got it on a stand, gonna paint it tomorrow. The heads are a few weeks out still.

 

Got it painted, degreed in cam, installed front cover and water pump.

 

Some pics of the bottom end.

 

Just a suggestion, you will probably need a longer bar on your engine stand in order to rotate the engine as you build it up.
Just something I learned while building my 371.
Wally

 

Rebuilding oil pump.

 

Nicely done progress. Please post videos of it running WITH audio!

 

Are you using a kit with new gears?
Those gears are SHOT.

 

Yep, waiting on parts.

 

 

The drive and driven gears each have a square mark on them, so those marks go together (ended up facing down in the pump body). The end clearance was .003 ( shop manual .005 to .009). I spun it up with a drill CCW, seems fine.

 

Oil pan installed finally. The Fel-Pro gasket kit came with 2 of the same end rubber seals, I had to order another set. Ultra Black both sides not messing around.

 

Time to bug machine shop about my heads. Short block is done! I need to make up a shaft to prime my oil pump at some point.

 

Finally found the correct crank bolt on ebay.

 

Nicely detailed work, it's looking great!

 

I don't think you need to make anything.
I'm pretty sure that that oil pump drive has the same coupling as a small block Chevy.
You should be able to buy ( or even borrow ) a priming tool anywhere.

 

No, its a D shape. I read to buy 5/8" tubing, heat it up and bang a flat into it.

 

OK, sorry I thought they looked the same.
Sounds like a good plan.

 

My heads are still a couple of weeks out. I found an intake on ebay, cleaned that up this weekend.

 

Yes, I'M OCD on the masking.

 

Looks awesome! Why are you replacing the old one?