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I'm currently restoring a one owner car. Just got the body back from paint and an starting the reassembly process. The car is black and I will install a burgundy leather interior and black top.
I'm currently restoring a one owner car. Just got the body back from paint and an starting the reassembly process. The car is black and I will install a burgundy leather interior and black top.
Regards,
Mark Desing
Mark, Post Photos. Everyone loves to see photos.
Jerry
Can anyone tell me what they are using for a hood to cowl seal for the 46-48 Olds? I can't find anything online that resembles what I removed from my 47. Any pics?
I appreciate any help.
Chevys of the 40's offers a hood to cowl seal. Could that be the same ?
Unfortunately the Chevy one is different, as it would appear, all the GM marks used a different seal.Not sure why, but that's the way it is.
Here is a possible work around: My hood tilts forward and at first I tried a reproduction factory seal. (Don't remember where I got it. That was about 5 years ago) The little "nipples" on the bottom side of the reproduction seal were supposed to fit into the holes in the cowl. They were off by as much as 3/8 in. in some locations. This was a one piece seal. It might have been right for some car of some make but not the 47 Oldsmobile.
I gave up on that seal and turned the job over to the body and paint shop. They came up with a fix which was a piece of 3/4 x 3/16 seal material. Holes in cowl for factory seal were plugged and strip was glued down onto cowl with 3M Super Adhesive. The seal is soft enough to follow the contour of the cowl and hasn't pulled loose in a couple of years of use. It does peek out beyond the edge of the hood just a little but the line is nice and even and is hardly noticeable.
Note: This may not be a fix for your car if you have a normally opening hood. But if your hood sits up from the cowl a bit you could try a thicker piece of seal. This is just a generic and fairly inexpensive seal you can buy by the foot. I believe Steele Rubber carries it.
Jerry
Thanks Jerry. You wouldn't happen to have a pic with it on your car, would you? I'm probably stressing over this way too much, but that's me!
Dennis, I found one. If you need closer photo I can try that later today. I do remember when the seal was applied that it was started in the middle and cut so that it would follow the angle of the cowl but still look like a single piece.
Jerry, that does look good. Nice and neat! That 455 looks right at home too . I noticed you filled the cowl vent, mind if I ask why? I kind of like keeping mine and am curious why you didn't.
Edit: oops, after looking closer it seems you did keep it!
I just purchased an 1946 98 Club Coupe. She has been modified with Mustang ll front end, Nova rear end, disc brakes, power steering and airbags. But she has retained her straight 8 and manual transmission. Most of the hard work has been done with the interior needing to be completed and finish the bodywork. This photo is before the previous owner did bumper deletes and made the hood hinge on the front. I would have prefered this look, but it is what it is.
I have a few other vintage vehicles and I prefer as close to original as possible. But the price was right and she still had the original flathead and manual. I thought I would see how it is driving a vintage car without the 80 year old technology.
I would ask the forums opinion on manual for interior and body work. I found this and it looked promising, opinions on this one or any other recommendations is appreciated
Hi Nick and welcome to the Vintage Forum of Classic Oldsmobile. This thread, 46-48s has a lot of information if you have a little persistence and can dig through the various threads. In addition to the manual you noted, there is also a 1948 Master Chassis Parts Book from Faxon which I have and have found useful. The best reference I have is the Hollander Parts Interchange, Edition 16 which covers our Oldsmobiles. 16th Edition is out of print but can be found on eBay from time to time. Hollander now has out a single old car interchange manual covering a lot more years. Maybe its OK, I haven't looked and doubt it could be as complete. One of the things I like about Hollander is the tips that were sent in by the mechanics of that era indicating how a part can be adapted to your vehicle even though it isn't listed as an "interchange."
I think it is cool that you are sticking with the Straight 8 Olds engine (and presumably the original Hydramatic transmission). The latter was a true four speed but lacked the Park position. As I recall "reverse" did the same thing and acted as a parking gear...sort of. The best thing about them was the double oil pump which allowed a push start if needed. Later hydramatics did not as they went to a single pump.
Post some current pics and stay active here at CO and in the 46-48 thread of the Vintage Forum. Glad to have you along for the ride.
Jerry.
Previous owner did do a lot of work/modification. Had I not found my convertible as a project I would have been looking for that fastback style in a 2 dr. Its a great look. I did not read closely enough on your earlier post to see that the 98 has a 3 speed (standard?) transmission. I just presumed it was hydramatic... Oops. I think I read somewhere that about 90 percent of the Oldsmobiles sold in 46-48 were hydramatic so yours is something of a rarity if its original to the car.
My 47 has Mustang II style front suspension and 67 GTO rear with coils all around and maybe 3 in. lower stance. I've only put 1,500 miles on it but am well satisfied with the ride and handling so far. Several told me the MII type front suspension would not hold up the Olds but mine has a very stout front cross member and high quality after market tubular A-arms both upper and lower as well as new coil springs 1.5 in. shorter and 2 in. drop spindles. Rear coils are new springs built with 3 in. drop. I don't see any reason why your suspension set up shouldn't work as well or maybe better since air bags should be more adjustable to "tune" the ride.
Keep on sending photos as you progress. We all like them.
Jerry
I really like the modifications that have been done. If someone was to describe an air dam on this era Oldsmobile I'd think no way, but the builder really pulled it off. There is a lot of fabrication there. I wonder with the hand made intake and exhaust what else has been done to the engine. It's going to be very cool when done. Keep us posted with the progress.
Yes there was a lot of fabrication on this car. The previous owner bought it in 2007 mainly to help keep employees busy during 07-08 business slowdown (90% of the car was done back then) as they are fabrication company, mainly pipe bending machines for the auto industry.
The modifications to the engine are the split intake with 34mm Webers which I am sure would not been far off the the original 2 barrel. Ignition is Pertronix and that is it. I did ask him why he did not split the exhuast and he said it was only 110HP, I don't plan to change that as the system is ceramic coated.
Its been a great seven or eight years being a member on Classic Oldsmobile and building and driving the 1947 Convertible. I've enjoyed the experience and learned a lot from CO members particularly in the Vintage Forum. I started the 46-48 thread shortly after joining as there just wasn't any organization and very little action in 46-48 cars.A bunch of us came together including at my last count about a half dozen convertible owners. The thread has its ups and downs but remains as a source of information if you take the time to read through it.
I always enjoyed the build more than the driving but at age 78 the "build" part is getting harder. Its not as enjoyable to get under, over and into all of the areas of old cars that need attention. And I found the convertible was sitting more than it was being driven. In part that's due to living in the wet Pacific NW where its really only convertible weather maybe three months a year. I couldn't justify that kind of investment sitting around idle. I've been a street rodder since about age 15 and have built at least a dozen cars in those years and the Olds was near the top as far as quality and appearance.
So I can back out of the Street Rod hobby feeling good about the skills I've had to develop and the quality of the cars I've passed along to new owners as I went from one project to another. The parts I have left over from the 47 I will put on classifieds here on CO. There are just a few and hopefully they will go quick. Its been a great hobby and a great experience being associated with Classic Oldsmobile.
Jerry.
ps. going to keep the brain active by stepping up my activity in my other hobby of metal machining.
Say it ain't so!!! Please don't go inactive here Jerry, you still have a lot of great info in your head to share with the less knowledgeable, myself included. I've enjoyed conversing with you and picking your brain on occasion, and would miss being able to do so again. If you don't want to continue posting, at least keep an eye on your email, which I still have, if you don't mind answering a question or 2 from time to time.
I wish you well in your metal machining interests. I was a machinist most of my adult life and that knowledge has helped me out on many occasions. It's a good skill to have.
As Dennis stated you have to much knowledge in regards to these vehicles, please stay active on the forum, just check in every once in a while. There is very little knowledge base out there.
Thank you for your suggestions while I have been a member on this forum.
Jerry, I am not aware of your personal situation and have no understanding of why you would decide to make this decision. However, I do know that life has a way of changing the directions we take without notice. I feel as though you have vested a great deal of time, money and yourself into the restoration of your beautiful convertible. It just seems that you had recently finished it.. Please know that although I've not been a regular contributor to this thread, I have always followed and appreciated the knowledge/expertise exchanged here. I sincerely hope that first and foremost: you continue to share your insight here, second: you do not regret letting this car go. I have had the privilege to purchase my '40 90 series Coupe from the gentleman that brought it back from the dead. Seven years later we still converse and correspond. I often get the sense that he has deep regrets selling the car. He obviously enjoys my progress and whenever I show the car, but I feel as though if I actually asked him if he'd like to have it again that he'd answer "YES!" Regardless of your reasons or situation, THANK YOU!!, for shining your light on our hobby.. Cheers..
I just joined this forum and found this thread. I own a 1946 76. Has anyone totaled the owners yet? Reading through a number of posts to this thread I noticed quite a few questions regarding interchanging body panels. I have not read all the posts so someone else may have mentioned this previously, the Olds series 60 is a Fisher A body, the series 70 is a B body and the series 90 is a C body. Chevy, Olds and I believe Pontiac used the A bodies, Cadillac and Buick also used the B bodies. The big Caddies and Buicks were also C bodies. Fenders and fender extensions were specific to each make but doors should interchange
Last edited by Carl46; February 12th, 2019 at 11:00 PM.
Reason: add photo
Welcome Carl. Beautiful car! How long have you owned her?
I have gone through all the responses to this thread, as I am a new member as well. As to the number of owners, I image since this thread has been around for many years the number of owners has changed, especially to active members.
I think we are a fairly rare breed.
Less than a month, I have been looking for a a car that shares my birth year, found this one and pulled the trigger. I live in the mountains of SW Colorado, too much snow to get the car home. It is in NM now, I drive down to visit when I can.
Hi Nick, I think the body style of your car was called a Dynamic Coupe in 46-47, the Club Coupe had a notch behind the read seat, similar style to the Ford coupe of the same vintage. There is a Fisher Body manual for 46-47. It includes a wealth of interior info as well as body info. Your 98 is a C body.
You've pretty much got the body sizes correct on the Oldsmobiles. Looks like yours is a finished car and very nicely done looking at the fit of the door and fenders--nice and even. GM cars made in late 40s are kind of notorious for poor body fit. After WWII and the resumption of car building the car makers could sell pretty much anything they could drive off the end of the line. There was a huge pent up demand since very few cars were made from 42-45. The public wasn't so picky and the designs themselves were barely concealed "upgrades" from 1941 and what they intended to build in 1942. Regardless the public gobbled them up as there was often competition for purchasing available new cars. Whose going to be picky when you know there are others in line that would snap it up if you don't?
There is a publication, 1946 - 1948 Fisher Body Manual, that I relied on when building my 47 convertible. The other great book for Interchange is the Hollanders Interchange Manual. 16th Edition covers our cars and is generally spot on as to what parts will interchange not only among a given brand but among different years and models of the same brand. It used to be in every car salvage yard and in the library of every restorer, customizer and hot rodder As you might imagine when trying top bring an Olds back to life and on the road parts are few and sometimes far between and if a Chevy or Pontiac panel can interchange it shouldn't be overlooked. My 47 convertible has a 41 Chevy coupe quarter panel fitted to repelace a rusted out original and it has a Pontiac passenger door which saved me time and money as the original was really beat up and would have cost far more to bring back than simply fitting the very nice Pontiac door.. So there are just a couple of examples of why there is so much interest in body panel interchanges among the vintage Olds owners.
Jerry
Last edited by 47 Convertible; February 13th, 2019 at 07:37 AM.
There used to be reprints of GM master parts catalogs. If someone could find one of those the amt of info is amazing. I have one for a series 61 Cadillac and it shows a blow up of every assembly on the car and parts numbers.
For each of the Fisher bodies, regardless of auto brand, the doors and trunk should interchange.
Cadillac actually kept making the 46 into early 47 as the demand was so great, they had never done that before, and I don't think since.
I just had to post this photo. It's not one of ours but it is the correct vintage. It is a 1946 Nash Suburban, a model I had never heard of. I'm posting it because of the amount and quality of the woodwork. I think its beautiful.
I've been driving past a parked clean 46 2 door sedan project(I think it is a 46 maybe a 47) for the last three years and I should stop and ask if they want to sell it. but I'm afraid they will say yes and then what to do. It would be about number three on my bucket list to build and I can't keep up with what I have now. To much to do and not enough time left to do it... Tedd
Hi Nick, I think the body style of your car was called a Dynamic Coupe in 46-47, the Club Coupe had a notch behind the read seat, similar style to the Ford coupe of the same vintage. There is a Fisher Body manual for 46-47. It includes a wealth of interior info as well as body info. Your 98 is a C body.
I have the reproduction 46-47 body manual. Mine is the Fisher body style 3907, listed as the Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser, in the "07" Dynamic Coupes series.
A little advise please. My Olds has the Hydramatic, I am wondering what type of ATF to use in a complete fluid change. I've read that Type A is recommended and also read Dextron is OK. I've looked for Type A but have not had much luck. Any thoughts - Thanks
A little advise please. My Olds has the Hydramatic, I am wondering what type of ATF to use in a complete fluid change. I've read that Type A is recommended and also read Dextron is OK. I've looked for Type A but have not had much luck. Any thoughts - Thanks
Type "A" fluid has essentially vanished from the face of the earth . It was based on "whale oil ". It's manufacture has been prohibited by the " save the whales " movement .
Dexron III / Mercon is the most acceptable substitute for these early transmissions . Note that some later versions of Dexron , especially synthetics should NOT be used as they can dissolve the " glue " that holds the friction material to the clutch plates .
Charlie where did you get your information about the glue and the clutch plates issue with the later Dexron ? Everyone I know that has a first generation transmission uses that fluid including me and as far as I know non of us have had any problems with clutch plates...... Just curious.... Tedd
Charlie where did you get your information about the glue and the clutch plates issue with the later Dexron ? Everyone I know that has a first generation transmission uses that fluid including me and as far as I know non of us have had any problems with clutch plates...... Just curious.... Tedd
Dexron IV or V was specifically mentioned in a thread on this forum as being unacceptable .
Dexron III is the one that is safe to use .
.
Type "A" fluid has essentially vanished from the face of the earth . It was based on "whale oil ". It's manufacture has been prohibited by the " save the whales " movement .
Dexron III / Mercon is the most acceptable substitute for these early transmissions . Note that some later versions of Dexron , especially synthetics should NOT be used as they can dissolve the " glue " that holds the friction material to the clutch plates .
My 42 is same basic body as 46-48, progress over the years
Purchased in 2003, progress over the years.
I think I may have the only 1942 Olds UTE in existence.
Ii has an Olds 307 with a 2004R trans from a 1989 Cadillac rear wheel drive.
Quick and easy dual master cylinder conversion (41-48)
Dual master cylinder fits 1964 Rambler American (and some early Jeeps) (has 1" bore). It is compact and one of only a few with the ports towards the engine.
Does not require cutting the original master cylinder mounting bracket so it can be easily reversed.
I realize this thread is for '46~'48 but the '42 is a close relation and I have an old friend with a '42 60 series sedan that's missing a few important parts to complete the restoration. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
A pair of '42 thru '47 60 series sedan rear 1/4 belt moulds, (p/n 4125975 and 4125976)
Hood ornament for a '42.
Horn ring. (He has one but it's horribly pitted)
It's also missing the ID plates from the firewall, I realize they won't be for his car but just something to make it look complete so even some from a '41 would be fine
Senginc, very impressive metal work on your 'Ute'. Quite a difference ! You could fool a bunch of people into thinking that's factory made. Thanks for sharing the master cylinder tip. That should work on cars up to the mid 50's also.
October 12th, 2018, 01:58 PM
Photos. Post lots of photos of your build
. I noticed you filled the cowl vent, mind if I ask why? I kind of like keeping mine and am curious why you didn't.
