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You are welcome. I hope the list helps. Just a further suggestion regarding the engine needs. You might be able to find a complete engine in good shape for less money than the parts from Egge and the labor to install them. Egge is expensive but they are the only place I know who have or will make parts for vintage car engines such as our Oldsmobiles. It seems like I see a couple of Olds straight-8 engines every year on ebay. Hemmings magazine would be another place to look for a complete engine.
If you look through the posts in this thread you will see there are a number of members of CO who have 1941 -1948 Oldsmobiles and who live in Germany, France, Sweden and Norway. It might be good to contact them directly to see if they have any of the items you need.
If I overlooked members in other European countries please excuse my lack of memory.
Jerry
just a short question!
The Olds L8 got a bore of 3,250
The Pontiac 268 a bore of 3,375
Isnīt it the same Block?
Is it possible to over bore the Block to that size?
or are the walls to thin?
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Jan, They are apparently not the same block despite looking similar. A check of my Hollander Interchange Manual, 16th Edition shows no interchange. If they were the same or even highly similar there would be a note of interchangability or how to interchange with modifications. Even the cylinder heads were not interchangeable.
GM divisions (Olds, Chevy, Buick, Pontiac and Cadillac and GMC trucks) were originally their own independent companys and in many ways stayed autonomous with their own engineering and design staffs despite being owned by General Motors. That fact may account for the lack of interchange across the various GM brands.
Jerry
Last edited by 47 Convertible; April 27th, 2016 at 07:49 AM.
This whole thread of 46 to 48 Oldsmobiles and who has them has become a real asset to me and I hope to others. When I first started it I was just trying to identify who else had one and wanted to pick people's brains for parts and how-to ideas and contribute a few of my own.
It has worked better than I hoped and has a real presence here in the vintage olds forum and lots of us have received help and given help to other owners. We're all over the USA and in Europe and South America as well. So this is sort of a pat-on-the-back to all who have kept the thread up and made it a resource.
My 1947 convertible now has its new color and nice straight panels and is getting ready to leave the body and paint shop in a week or so. It will get a brief stop at my shop for glass and a few other fixes and then, hopefully, off to the upholstery shop.
A couple of photos taken 6/6/16 at the body shop as the doors were going back on. Fender extensions and rear fenders are painted and rubbed out and waiting to go back on. Color is 'Dark Jaguar British Racing Green' Who knew there were so many variations of 'British Racing Green'? The painter says at least a dozen.
ps. excuse he 45-48 headline. I fat-thumbed the keys. Obviously it should be 46-48.
Jerry
Last edited by 47 Convertible; June 7th, 2016 at 09:10 AM.
Body and Paint finally done and the 47 Convertible is back home in my shop for about 2 weeks for glass install and mechanical bugs to be worked through. Next it goes to upholstery. The project is a major money drain right now.
Someone told me 50% of project cost is body/paint and upholstery and all in about 9-12 months. I believe them!
I'm real happy with the color and the quality of the body and paint work by Refuge Refinishing in Woodland WA. photo is of car on my buddy's race car trailer and being towed by his new Chevy Pickup. Other photo is in my shop.
Jerry
That's a beautiful paint job. Not trying to be critical, just an observation, but I think you have a 1948. Judging by the cut outs for the tail lights which were rectangular for 1947. Yours appear to be of the elongated variety used in 1948.The 47 tail lights were shaped more like a deck of cards. Which ever year it is, your doing a great job.
Pat, you have a good memory. Those are indeed 1948 Olds rear fenders. My 47 rear fenders were beyond practical repair and I sourced a set of 48 rear fenders in Southern Oregon--only 300 miles away. I love a road trip in scenic country so went down and picked them up with the thought I could either cover the 46-47 tail light cut outs or maybe I could do something creative with them.
I have a friend of many years in the Sacramento area who can make about anything he puts his mind to. He was making his own molds and casting tail light buckets and lens out of urethane for 30s Chevrolets at the time. I asked if he could make me a set of clear lens if I sent him my 47 tail light lens. The thought was to create a set of backup lights. I never cared for the after market single backup light dealers sometimes installed.
It took a couple of tries and enough money to make it worth his while to make the molds as well as pay for the casting supplies. Its very hard to pour clear lens with no bubbles in them but he got it done on the second try. I'm pretty happy with the results. In the photo attached you can see the try out of the tail lights with the backup lights in view (kind of) while I was doing the wiring a year or so ago. I had a photo of the back up lights working but could not find it in my not-very-organized photo albums.
Jerry
Jerry, are the contours of the 48 fenders the same as the 47? In other words, can you just cut an opening for the 48 taillights in the 47 fenders and have them fit right?
Hi Dennis, I think as long as you are looking at the 60 series of both years they very likely are the same. I do not know that for a fact however. What I do know is that the 48 small Olds rear fenders bolted right up to the 47 small Olds body. Hard to imagine that Olds would have made a different stamp when they knew everything was going to change on the small Olds in 1949.
The small Olds 48 tail lights are a one year only and while lens are available through ebay and the Taillight King you will play the devils own time getting decent bezels. It took me about 3 years of looking to come up with two good ones. They are as hard to find as the parking light lens for the front bumpers on our cars.
Finally, There is a large rubber pad between the tail light assembly and the fender. They are usually shot. No one makes them. I finally gave up and Pat and I went in a temporary partnership to have my buddy make the molds and cast us each a set. The cost was around $600 and it took our source at least three tries to get the right material and get a set bubble free (no voids).
At the time I posted at least twice to see if there was interest in anyone buying a set of the pads. No takers.
I don't now whether my guy would cast another set and if he has the material for it. He was pretty frustrated. We even checked out having the tail light pad 3-D printed. Cost est. for that was $1500 plus material at about $300/set. We dropped the 3-D print idea like a hot potato.
If you want to do the 48 tail lights on 47 Fenders I'd recommend getting a junker rear fender and doing a prototype before taking a chance on good rear fenders.
Jerry
Thanks for the info, Jerry. I do like the idea of using them, but I know they are going to be very hard to find. There is one drivers side light on ebay now that looks really nice, but I can't decide whether or not to grab it and hope to find a passenger side, or just let it slide and wait until a pair shows up. Decisions, decisions...
Thanks for the info, Jerry.
There is one drivers side light on ebay now that looks really nice, but I can't decide whether or not to grab it and hope to find a passenger side, or just let it slide and wait until a pair shows up. Decisions, decisions...
Dennis, I'm not sure that is a 1948 Olds taillight for the small Olds. Something about the bezel and lens doesn't look correct for a factory taillight assembly. See the photo attached for a picture of one of my 48 small Olds taillight assemblies. There is a reason he has a note in his ad to call him. I think I've dealt with "Roger' before and the dealing was OK. But if you examine the two pictures side by side it looks like his bezel has a lot more curve and the lens just doesn't look like a 48 small Olds factory lens. Maybe its for the larger 1948 98 model? Just saying check it out carefully.
Jerry
Thanks for the pics, Jerry, I can certainly see the difference between yours and his! Guess I'll pass on it for now, and keep my eyes open for a correct matched pair.
Finding the bezels is hard but finding the tail light assembly is even harder. If you want to go this route then look for the complete tail light assembly including the bezel. Took me 3 years to come up with a decent pair. Like Jerry says the gasket is a whole other problem.
Thanks for the pics, Jerry, I can certainly see the difference between yours and his! Guess I'll pass on it for now, and keep my eyes open for a correct matched pair.
Hi Dennis,
Put this link on your list of places to look for tail lights. Prices are high but he seems to get 48 stuff from time to time: http://www.taillightking.com/
Jerry
Rearview Mirror Info Needed 46-48 convertible or other
Searching for inside rear view mirror information for my 47 convertible. I don't know if convertible mirror is the same as the hard top models or if the mount is the same. I see no obvious place for the inside rear view mirror to mount either on the header above the windshield or on the windshield divider.
I did see a photo on ebay of what was said to be an inside mirror for a 47 but couldn't be sure it was legit. So much stuff on ebay is either bogus or offered by people who don't really know what they have. That mirror had a threaded stud with what looked like a jam nut.
Any of the 46-48 convertible guys who have theirs together or have the information please let me know. On the chance that convertible inside mirrors mount like hard top models if anyone has or can take a picture of their inside mirror that would also be appreciated.
My search of the Internet has turned up nothing so far so I'm looking to my fat-fendered 40s Olds friends here. Thanks for any information, photos etc.
Jerry
Last edited by 47 Convertible; July 9th, 2016 at 09:15 PM.
Jerry, I did a google image search and found a couple views of vert interiors. It would appear that the mirror is attached to the divider. Don't know if these pics help, but it's all I could find.
Dennis, thanks very much for those photos. They do help. At least I know where the inside rear view mounts. My inside divider bar is just a flat piece that I don't think is thick enough to thread for a mirror. The photos look like there might be another piece that attaches and that the mirror threads into. Nothing like that was in any of the baskets of parts that came with body and frame. Drat.
Anybody have close up photo(s) of mirror mount or their inside divider bar so I can see how the mirror mounts?
Thanks again for being so responsive Dennis. Which search engine do you use? I didn't turn up any of those pics or maybe I used the wrong search words.
Jerry
Jerry, I just did Google images and plugged in 47 Olds convertible! Sometimes you need to change it around a little, like "1947 Oldsmobile convertible" to get more results.
[QUOTE=47 Convertible;934699]Dennis, thanks very much for those photos. ...My inside divider bar is just a flat piece that I don't think is thick enough to thread for a mirror. The photos look like there might be another piece that attaches and that the mirror threads into. Nothing like that was in any of the baskets of parts that came with body and frame.
Nothing like replying to your own post.
I went back to my shop after answering Dennis' reply and took a closer look. Well, whaddya know there is a threaded hole in that thin piece of inside divider bar. It has maybe three threads but I guess Olds must've thought that was enough if you thread in the mirror and run the jam nut down against the divider bar. I gave myself a 'D' for Duh on this one.
Jerry
Haven't seen you on the site recently how's the 47 coming along? Need updates my man
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To put it mildly its been a challenge and an "opportunity" to learn more about convertible tops and side glass than I ever wished to know. Good thing I'm a stubborn son of a gun and stick with it. Do-Overs could be my middle name. I am at least 45 days late getting the car to the upholstery shop but he is also late getting some prior work completed so I don't feel too guilty.
Issues are in two main areas: 1. window glass and frames. 2. Top mechanism woes.
Window Glass: some unplanned rechroming of wing window frames and time lost waiting for the chrome shop, install and alignment issues. Getting the windows to align with each other and with the top. after a couple of evenings of work one side is in alignment
meanwhile passenger side is stubbornly resisting alignment. Had to create more room to adjust. They are now much closer.
Top alignment: The old cartoons about Rube Goldberg and his hopelessly complex machines must have been inspired by the Olds convertible top operating mechanism. At least 11 points for adjustment. I figured out most and the top is now aligned enough for the pins and latches to work on the windshield pillar. But at the rear the folding down top comes very close to the body on one side and a good two inches away on the other. The only way I can see to align correctly is to adjust the posts around which the mechanism pivots when opening and closing. Post on either side around which top mechanism arms pivot when opening and closing. Posts are in rear. Pieces in foreground are factory and also have pivot for each arm tht connects. Notice the 'shop built' appearance of the posts that are bolted down.
When comparing pictures in the factory body and chassis manual with the posts in my car it was apparent mine are shop built and not the originals. Further they lack the adjustability that was provided for in the factory posts. Just four holes and four bolts with no provision for adjusting. What was the previous builder thinking?
So today and the next few days are given over to modifying the post and the mounting design so it can be adjusted. I've built a plate for each side with studs welded in that will go under the post.
new bases for modifying pivot post on 47 convertible
The shop built posts will be removed, the bases slotted so they can be adjusted on the flat mounting plane and the posts sectioned and shortened to make them the correct height. Any vertical alignment can be taken care of with nuts between the new plates and redone pivot post bases. Hopefully that will cure the misalignment when the top folds and also lower the side plates so the quarter windows will align with them. If it works I will be a happy camper until the next FUBAR makes itself known...
A little more work installing wiper mechanisms, defrost hoses, buttoning up the fuse box and it should be ready for the upholstery shop. I'm shooting for the 23rd of Aug.
Last edited by 47 Convertible; August 9th, 2016 at 11:36 AM.
"Any vertical alignment can be taken care of with nuts between the new plates and redone pivot post bases. Hopefully that will cure the misalignment when the top folds and also lower the side plates so the quarter windows will align with them."
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Put in another evening Tuesday and shortened the towers and installed the bolted plates so now I can get vertical and very limited horizontal adjustment. I tried it out and it appears to have been an improvement in terms of the top mechanism fitting correctly. Fine tuning the top fit coming up next along with re adjusting the side windows since the top mechanism, which was fastened at the windshield, moved itself over some when I pulled the bolts. It 'knew' where it wanted to go to relieve any stresses in the top bows and side plate. Movement was about 1/2 in. toward passenger side.
Last edited by 47 Convertible; August 10th, 2016 at 07:45 PM.
Reason: added text
Hi Jerry, I Was out of town for a couple of days and just read your posts. Wow that's a lot of work to get the top fit correct. You will be a "Top" expert when your done and others will be contacting you for advise. It will be worth it when your done.
Hi Jerry, I Was out of town for a couple of days and just read your posts. Wow that's a lot of work to get the top fit correct. You will be a "Top" expert when your done and others will be contacting you for advise. It will be worth it when your done.
Thanks Pat. I hope the other for or five with 41-48 convertibles will have their original top mechanisms in working shape and none of the frustrations I've experienced will occur. I think my work at sorting out why the top didn't operate as designed was due to the fact that factory structure must have rotted away with rust back when it sat on the plains of Montana. Or maybe some parts hunter made off with the top mechanism?
The owner before me had to try to replicate the factory structure because those parts just aren't made and trying to find one you could measure and photograph wasn't possible. I'm trying to imagine what I would have done in his shoes and be as generous as possible in theorizing why he did it the way he did it.
Its to his credit that he got close enough that I could analyze the problems and re work the structure he (or some other previous owner) must have built. The main issue, as I see it, was the lack of adjustability in the shop-built replica tower.
My thought in reworking the mechanism was to make it sufficiently adjustable so that at some point in the range of adjustment I built in, the existing tower would be at the factory tolerances. I'm imagining a design engineer would shudder at what all of us subsequent owners have done but for a shade tree builder I think I now have something that can be made to work. Will paint and pretty it up before it goes off to upholstery. Meanwhile side window adjustments and maybe fine tuning top adjustments remain to be done. Onward and upward.
Jerry
Hi Andreas, Thanks for putting the photos of your 1946 convertible on the 46-48 thread. This is the sort of photo and information I was hoping to develop when I started this thread for those that own fat fendered Oldsmobiles.
Did you ever get a reply to an earlier post you wrote asking about what rubber parts are available for your '46 convertible? I didn't see any when I checked your posts on CO.
In case not I have sourced quite a few rubber parts from Steele Rubber including all of the rubber needed for the convertible top, some rubber for the door seals, trunk seal and side window stops (cushions upper and lower limits), the front window seals, a seal for the cowl where the back of the hood contacts it, rubber pads for the convertible exterior hinges and little tabs to cushion the fuel filler door and several rubber bushings for trailing arms, track bar and anti-sway bar just to name those I can remember. If you go to the Steele Rubber site and follow directions to bring up your car it will provide a list of everything they have for your car.
The quality is good in my opinion but I was startled when I added up the total cost of just the rubber stuff for my car.
This thread has been very helpful. I found a '48 D76 in Florida I am pursuing now. Looking forward to fat-fendered ownership in addition to the D88 yacht I have now.
Thanks for joining the thread Brian. The more the merrier. Sounds like you are cornering the market on Oldsmobiles in your neck of the woods. If you get that D76 be sure to take and post lots of photos. We all love photos of member's cars.
Jerry
The important piece of information would have been here, what rubber pieces are NOT available. I asked this question to Steel. No answer until now. Let's see..
Here's one more 47 Convertible owner. I was almost born in this car, and may have been conceived in it as well (TMI). Was given to me when I was 16 blew the engine at 17 and it has sat in Mom & Dad's garage for 44 years. Dad and I recently (8/15) had a plan to put her back on the road, but life changes? Dad got shingles (2/16) and went to be with Mom in June. Estate settled, Sis got house, get car out, etc... It (The 47) now resides at my house. Plans are; body (including original color) & interior to be stock as possible, Frame out & donor frame from 1983 El Camino (G Body) will be lengthen 2-1/2" and mounts added, Differential will be 12 bolt posi, Trans 700R4, Engine 383 Crate from Jegs, Electrical 12 volt full rewire. I have everything lined out and all the original parts as well as many extras, Chrome Yes it will cost and I am currently looking for a good chromer. One of my main issues is the door gap at the rear of the doors to rear quarter panel and how to correct the 1/2" at top to 3/16" at bottom. Pretty sure the frame is not in the best shape, car was originally from Hawaii (Dad was in the Navy), shipped to California, 2 trips across the country, 4 trips to Colorado, 2 to Mexico, 1 to Alaska, 1 to Alberta, 2 to Yellowstone and on roads that shall we say were questionable! Any help thanks.
Really great to have another 40s convertible owner on this thread. Is it a 66, 68 or 90 model? Send photos regardless of condition. We all like photos!
If you go back over the thread you will be able to identify and make 'contacts' of 5 or 6 others who also own 40s convertibles in various States and countries. Parts are few and hard to find but if you have the 'small' 60 series Oldsmobile you will find that some Chevy and Pontiac parts will interchange. Hollanders Interchange manual may become a valued resource. reprints are available. Top parts, grilles and trim seem to me to be the most difficult to locate. If you have your original hydraulic pump, controls and cylinders rebuilding services are available or you can contact Hydrolectric in Florida who make a replacement kit for all the top hydraulics.
Welcome to the 46-48 thread. Please be a regular contributor.
Jerry
April 25th, 2016, 12:33 AM
