Transmission Fluid Recommendations
#1
Transmission Fluid Recommendations
Getting a 1970 Cutlass Supreme project car with automatic transmission. One of my first task will be to change the transmission fluid and filter.
Any recommendation for the brand/type of fluid to be used in this 1970 transmission?
Are the fluids, such as Castro High Mileage fluid good for this older transmission?
Should the fluid in the torque converter also be changed?
Any other advice on servicing this transmission?
thanks,
Pat
Any recommendation for the brand/type of fluid to be used in this 1970 transmission?
Are the fluids, such as Castro High Mileage fluid good for this older transmission?
Should the fluid in the torque converter also be changed?
Any other advice on servicing this transmission?
thanks,
Pat
Last edited by jpatfarrell; November 3rd, 2018 at 06:47 PM.
#4
The only way to get the fluid out of the converter without removing the trans is to disconnect the return line from the trans. Use some rubber hose to catch the fluid in a 5 gallon bucket. Start the car, once the bucket has a gallon of fluid,dump another gallon in. Repeat the procedure until the fluid comes out clean. Replace the filter, refill with fluid, call it good
if that’s too much expense in fluid, remove the pan, let the trans drain for a while. Replace the filter, refill, and don’t worry about it. If the tens was working ok you shouldn’t have any issues.
if that’s too much expense in fluid, remove the pan, let the trans drain for a while. Replace the filter, refill, and don’t worry about it. If the tens was working ok you shouldn’t have any issues.
#5
Agreed. Typical trans service is drop pan, drain fluid, replace filter, fill with ~5 quarts (system holds ~11 quarts? total). If the fluid is totally burned (dark color) then complete fluid replacement is warranted, per above procedure.
Any brand Dexron II compatible fluid will work, These days, it's Dexron 4 or 5, I forget what number it is these days.
Any brand Dexron II compatible fluid will work, These days, it's Dexron 4 or 5, I forget what number it is these days.
#6
The only way to get the fluid out of the converter without removing the trans is to disconnect the return line from the trans. Use some rubber hose to catch the fluid in a 5 gallon bucket. Start the car, once the bucket has a gallon of fluid,dump another gallon in. Repeat the procedure until the fluid comes out clean. Replace the filter, refill with fluid, call it good
if that’s too much expense in fluid, remove the pan, let the trans drain for a while. Replace the filter, refill, and don’t worry about it. If the tens was working ok you shouldn’t have any issues.
if that’s too much expense in fluid, remove the pan, let the trans drain for a while. Replace the filter, refill, and don’t worry about it. If the tens was working ok you shouldn’t have any issues.
#8
[QUOTE=Greg Rogers;1134762]I took a transmission class years ago at a community college. The old guy instructor used to drill a hole in the torque converter and drain all the fluid. Then he tapped it and installed a brass plug. Unless my memory is worse than I thought......Back in the day, didn't Ford's have a drain plug in the converter?
#11
I wouldn’t want to drill holes in a converter!!! Nothing good can come from the small amount of shavings a drill and tap will leave behind. And if you have ever seen the inside of a torque converter, there isn’t any room to spare. If you tap that hole too deep, that plug screws in too deep and contact the turbine, the converter AND trans will need replaced or overhauled. Or the drill bit hitting one of the blades, once again hitting the turbine, posdible balance issues, all the aforementioned concerns with the turbine also apply to the converter pump, all around bad idea.
Seriously, if the fluid is cooked enough that a total replacement is needed, the trans is pretty tired and soon will need more work than a fluid and filter change can fix. Either use the method I described earlier, or just change the filter and what fluid you can until further service is needed. TH350 are pretty durable.
Seriously, if the fluid is cooked enough that a total replacement is needed, the trans is pretty tired and soon will need more work than a fluid and filter change can fix. Either use the method I described earlier, or just change the filter and what fluid you can until further service is needed. TH350 are pretty durable.
#12
Be sure you know if you have the 350 or 400 transmission.
If it has a filter, change it. If it has a strainer (screen), change it or clean it.
If the converter has a drain plug, drain it also. Every Hydramatic and Fordomatic I worked on had one. If it doesn't have one, leave it as is.
Use Dexron fluid from a reputable manufacturer.
Use a new pan gasket and straighten out the pan's bolt holes if they are distorted.
If it has a filter, change it. If it has a strainer (screen), change it or clean it.
If the converter has a drain plug, drain it also. Every Hydramatic and Fordomatic I worked on had one. If it doesn't have one, leave it as is.
Use Dexron fluid from a reputable manufacturer.
Use a new pan gasket and straighten out the pan's bolt holes if they are distorted.
#13
I think you're going to find that most of the transmission fluids these days suitable for our old cars are labeled "DEX/MERC" like these.
Read the back side, and it will tell you this.
As long as the car is 2005 model year or earlier, Ford or GM, you should be fine. I've been using fluids labeled this way for several years now as that's all I can find at the local auto parts store. I've had no problems. There's no more bottles labeled simply "Dexron II" or "Dexron III" like there might have been 10 or 15 years ago that I can find.
Read the back side, and it will tell you this.
As long as the car is 2005 model year or earlier, Ford or GM, you should be fine. I've been using fluids labeled this way for several years now as that's all I can find at the local auto parts store. I've had no problems. There's no more bottles labeled simply "Dexron II" or "Dexron III" like there might have been 10 or 15 years ago that I can find.
#14
I currently have a tractor trans hydraulic fluid with just enough Type F to colour it. One of the reasons I switched is it a 5W30 weight in synthetic, 10w30 in conventional. I have had endless issues with transmission's leaking somewhere no matter how many seals I replace, I haven't added a drop to this TH350 with this fluid. I have had to add some Dexron 3 to my 2004R, I topping it up Transhydraulic fluid from now on.
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