Ok family here i am again with piks this time . Im feeling i need another spacer . Im not good with numbers in this way . My flexplate TC gap is a little over a 1/4 of an inch .28 . Ok my doubled washers are .16 of an inch which leaves .12 . Is that gap good after torquieng the TC bolts or do i need to add another thinner spacer ? It lools and feels like alot of travel . O and i pulled the TC up to the flexplate all the way would that gap be enough to un seat the TC ? In the pik the bolt isnt started just pushed in to hold spacers .

 

I'm not used to seeing any gap at all. Is the center of the torque converter not wanting to go any deeper into the back of the crankshaft?

 

yes it will bolt all the way just for start out gap info i didnt tighten it down . All this is before i tighten it down because i didnt see a crack in my flexplate and now if i tighten the TC to flexplate and start the engine i hear a knock noise

 

The textbook specification is a 1/8-3/16 inch of converter pullout. In reality, you can get away with a LITTLE more. I wouldn’t go tighter, the converter needs room to flex and move under heavy load. If thee is no clearance it will tear up the engine thrust bearing or the pump.

Push the converter all the way into the transmission use a drill bit as a measuring tool. If the clearance is more than 3/16 inch, use flat washers to take up some clearance.

Assuming the converter is machined and assembled correctly you shouldn’t need shims. The factory didn’t use spacers, unless the converter is dimensionally incorrect or something is worn you shouldn’t need them either.

 

I just put in my 2004R. I could have fit 4 washers, I used 3. More space with the forged crank and 330 flex plate. I used no washers with that much space and it puked ATF out of the torque converter seal. It seems most aftermarket converters are short on pad height.