I just purchased a 1964 Olds 98 Custom Sports Coupe with standard Starfire engine, center console, and shifter on the console.


Problems/Symptoms

1. When in park with engine idling the transmission will begin to buzz. this usually occurs after the engine has warmed up and the car has been idling for several minutes.

2. When moving forward in first gear it will shift smoothly into the second phase not second gear (i.e. the accelerator kicks in), then it won't shift into second gear unless I take my foot off the peddle for a second or two and let the RPMs drop...then it will go into second gear. Same thing happens when trying to go into third gear.

3. Once I take the car for a short test drive of approximately 1/10 miles and not over 40 MPH, if I stop the car at a stop sign or light, the car will not move forward again unless I first put the car into reverse and move backwards a few feet....then it will shift into Drive and I can mover forward again. However sometimes this doesn't work and I have to rev the engine a few times until I can fell the transmission "catch" and go into drive. Then I can mover forward.

4. When the problem described in number 3 above occurs I can often hear the transmission whine as if it is slipping.


What I've Done Thus Far:

1. Changed the transmission filter

2. Changed the transmission fluid

3. Attempted to make adjustments at the transmission and carburetor per the shop manual instructions....Adjust T.V. lever at side of transmission, adjust lower T.V. rod, Adjust upper T.V. rod, Adjust throttle downshift stop. The instructions are a bit ambiguous and I'm no master mechanic so I'm not 100% certain that I made these adjustments correctly although I'm pretty sure the T.V. lever at the side of the transmission is correct within 1/4" to 1/2".


Any advice or counsel is welcome. I live in Hanover, Maryland and my email is billr111@gmail.com and cell is 570-313-8407

 

I am no expert here but a couple thoughts:

• Be sure the fluid level is correct when the trans is hot. Before checking it put the selector through all positions, then check in park with the engine running.
• In addition to adjusting the TV linkage, make sure the floor shift linkage is adjusted properly so the trans is really in the gear the selector shows.

Good luck.

 

Thanks Don. I've checked the fluid level numerous times and if anything it is now a little high. I had the same trouble when it was a little low too.

I checked the linkages and there is some play so that may be part of the problem although I did tighten whatever I could some time ago.

I think I just need to continue to tweak the several adjustment points that the manual talks about.

Does your '63 Olds Starfire have a Slimjim? If so, how does it run?

Thanks for your help,
Bill

 

I've never seen the adjustments affect noise. Was it working normally (or as normal as a SJ can work) before you started fiddling with the linkages?

Sounds to me like you have pump or governor issues.

 

You are having some pretty significant issues if the trans is dropping in and out of gear which is why I thought it might be the selector linkage, I don't think the TV adjustment would cause that although I'm not sure. My car does have the same trans, luckily it works correctly (knock wood).

 

Doubt its linkages. Miles on this trans? What year & model of trans?
When you dropped the pan how much debris/mud did you find?
Sounds like fluid is bypassing where it should not be. Which equals rebuild time. Especially if its 50+ years old and never been torn down.
Could be pump related, seal related, or clutch pack related, hard part related or ...etc. Hard to diagnose online. Can only suggest.
If this trans has pressure ports on it which it should you need to take its heartbeat (pressure readings). This will tell you if your hydraulic pump (Automatic Transmission) is functioning properly, which it is not. Fluid pressure readings are how you diagnose auto trans problems. It will help zero in on which circuit is bypassing.
This info is available for most popular transmissions.
Take it to a good trans shop and have them hook gauges to it and check its pressures.
Dont drive it any further as you will only cause more damage.

 

Curious as to the condition of the filter/pan and fluid when you changed it. It can be the evidence you are looking for...as written previously....was the filter intact, dirt, debris in pan. What is fluid looking like now after a few miles...has it changed color does it smelled burnt. Have the same tranny....I want to change filter but if it ain;t broke I am not touching it!

 

 

Yes it was giving me problems even before I started making adjustments.

 

when I first got the car earlier this year the tranny was giving me problems, i.e. not shifting properly. Consequently I added some Lucas Transmission Fix and this apparently loosened alot of the built up gunk and thereby it clogged the filter (I correctly concluded the filter was clogged by process of deduction but that's another story). Anyway I dropped the tranny oil pan and replaced the filter and the tranny oil. There was "mud" on the bottom of the pan but I did not see or feel or see any metal parts, chips, filings etc.) After I replaced the filter and tranny fluid the car ran a bit better. My conclusion thus far is that the throttle valve linkages are a bit off. I will continue to tinker and will re-read the shop manual about how to adjust the linkages and try, try again. I must say that the old boy is running a bit better since I've been making the adjustments. yet the rough shifting, occassional buzzing and whining, and other such problems still persists.

 

Dont want to rain on your parade but its sounds like its time for a tear down. Driving it much more will cause hard part damage and increase rebuild costs. As mentioned get the pressure readings taken if you still need proof thats it time for a tear down. Snake oils and linkage adjustments cant take the place of fresh consumable parts in an auto trans. You dont want to be stranded on the road with a smoked trans.

 

Got the car running well recently after adjusting the linkages and playing with fluid levels but on way back from car show it started acting up. I was able to limp home but now the car won't even move. I think I'm going to replace the Slim Jim with a 700R4.

 

Go with something proven like one of Ross Racing Engines' THM conversions. I think you'll be better satisfied with a 350/400 or even a 200-4R than you will a 700 (course the 700's gear spacing is such that you will still have that SJ feel). I will admit up front I'm not a 700 fan.

Several on here have the RRE conversions and have threads documenting the installation.

 

I realize this message is old but hope you see it and respond. Did you change to the 700r4? Tell me about it. Thinking of same on 63 Starfire.