Will this transmission fit my '66?
July 29th, 2012, 02:55 PM
#1
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Will this transmission fit my '66?
I would like to swap my jet-a-way for a TH350 and found one on ebay. I could pick it up for 200$ which is a rare opportunity for me.
Only problem is, I'm not totally sure, that it will fit behind my 330 as it looks a bit different than other th350's I've seen...
The seller claims the tranny is out of a 79 Buick Electra with a 403 engine and it has been rebuilt 5000 km ago.
Can somebody tell me if the transmission in the link below will fit my car please?
http://www.ebay.de/itm/300750624259?...#ht_746wt_1189
Thanks!
Only problem is, I'm not totally sure, that it will fit behind my 330 as it looks a bit different than other th350's I've seen...
The seller claims the tranny is out of a 79 Buick Electra with a 403 engine and it has been rebuilt 5000 km ago.
Can somebody tell me if the transmission in the link below will fit my car please?
http://www.ebay.de/itm/300750624259?...#ht_746wt_1189
Thanks!
July 29th, 2012, 04:04 PM
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I would like to swap my jet-a-way for a TH350 and found one on ebay. I could pick it up for 200$ which is a rare opportunity for me.
Only problem is, I'm not totally sure, that it will fit behind my 330 as it looks a bit different than other th350's I've seen...
The seller claims the tranny is out of a 79 Buick Electra with a 403 engine and it has been rebuilt 5000 km ago.
Can somebody tell me if the transmission in the link below will fit my car please?
http://www.ebay.de/itm/300750624259?...#ht_746wt_1189
Thanks!
Only problem is, I'm not totally sure, that it will fit behind my 330 as it looks a bit different than other th350's I've seen...
The seller claims the tranny is out of a 79 Buick Electra with a 403 engine and it has been rebuilt 5000 km ago.
Can somebody tell me if the transmission in the link below will fit my car please?
http://www.ebay.de/itm/300750624259?...#ht_746wt_1189
Thanks!
July 29th, 2012, 04:32 PM
#4
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Well thanks guys, I just bought it!
I hope the yoke is included....
Anything else that I need to install it?
Would you install the 400 or maybe sell it on and get a 350 instead?
I hope the yoke is included....
Anything else that I need to install it?
Would you install the 400 or maybe sell it on and get a 350 instead?
July 29th, 2012, 04:37 PM
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You're going to have to do something about the trans cross member. You won't have the required holes in the frame to move it back enough. You could probably get away with drilling what you need.
Isn't a TH425 the Toronado trans? That guy sounds confused.
That is a great price for a TH400
Isn't a TH425 the Toronado trans? That guy sounds confused.
That is a great price for a TH400
July 29th, 2012, 06:34 PM
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That is definately a T400! Not a bad price if it's in good running condition. You can use your harness for the kickdown, just remove the SP power. You will have to move the trans cross member back 6 inches, and your going to need a driveshaft. You will have to mod your e-brake. Other than that a simple swap.
July 30th, 2012, 06:58 AM
#7
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Couple of things. First, that's a short-tail TH400, so you got a smoking deal if the trans is in good shape. Looks like it came with the yoke also, so you're good there. Since you have a convertible, the trans crossmember attaches to welded tabs on the inner surfaces of the boxed frame rails. These tabs aren't long enough to slide the crossmember back, so you'll need to weld on extensions. This is what the factory did for the 1967 cars with TH400 anyway. You'll need to have your driveshaft shortened to fit. You'll also need to replace the front and intermediate emergency brake cables since they hang off the crossmember and the old ones won't fit with the new crossmember location. Use the cables for a 1967 Cutlass/442 with TH400. Finally, you'll need a different shifter to access all three gears manually.
July 30th, 2012, 08:04 AM
#8
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The shifter will work, but the indicator will be off because you are going from 2 - 3 speed trans. On the e-brake, what I did, was not change the cables just used a shorter hook that attatches to the trans xmember and adjusted the slack out of it.
July 30th, 2012, 08:12 AM
#9
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Didn't realize it was a convertible, guess I should have read down more. As Joe said you'll have to go with added tabs or get an aftermarket cross member. I went aftermarket and I'm very pleased with it.
http://www.crossmembers.com/shop/ind...cPath=18_21_23
http://www.crossmembers.com/shop/ind...cPath=18_21_23
July 30th, 2012, 09:41 AM
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First of all many thanks to you all! As always a great source of info and a great help, I'm happy to be a member! 
Sorry that I didn't mention that it is a convertible!
Can I buy the proper indicator and put it in the place of the old one?
I think I'm going to reuse the old crossmember and weld extensions, because the costs of the aftermarket crossmember and shipping costs would be twice as high as the costs for the tranny itself but thanks for the info!
But one question is still left
Would you go with the TH400 or sell it for more than I've paid and buy a TH350 instead, where most of the modifications are not necessary?
Sorry that I didn't mention that it is a convertible!
Can I buy the proper indicator and put it in the place of the old one?
I think I'm going to reuse the old crossmember and weld extensions, because the costs of the aftermarket crossmember and shipping costs would be twice as high as the costs for the tranny itself but thanks for the info!
But one question is still left
Would you go with the TH400 or sell it for more than I've paid and buy a TH350 instead, where most of the modifications are not necessary?
July 30th, 2012, 09:54 AM
#11
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I think I'm going to reuse the old crossmember and weld extensions, because the costs of the aftermarket crossmember and shipping costs would be twice as high as the costs for the tranny itself but thanks for the info!
But one question is still left
Would you go with the TH400 or sell it for more than I've paid and buy a TH350 instead, where most of the modifications are not necessary?
Would you go with the TH400 or sell it for more than I've paid and buy a TH350 instead, where most of the modifications are not necessary?
July 30th, 2012, 09:58 AM
#12
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I like the T400, very simple to setup, passing gear is electrically actuated, no cables to mess with at the carburator, and strong as hell.
I put one in my 67, used all the column shift mechanism from the ST300. It works fine, all the shift locations are set by the trans, the column sets park/ neutral. He can use his kickdown for the his current trans if it still is functional for the passing gear.
On the indicator, I've never tried to change mine because the only real difference is 2nd gear. It will still line up with low, and is very close to the drive indication, so for me it's not a problem.
If you have the original driveshaft, which is a rubber sleeved 2 piece, I would have one made. I'm sure you can get one over there inexpensively compared to having one shipped.
I put one in my 67, used all the column shift mechanism from the ST300. It works fine, all the shift locations are set by the trans, the column sets park/ neutral. He can use his kickdown for the his current trans if it still is functional for the passing gear.
On the indicator, I've never tried to change mine because the only real difference is 2nd gear. It will still line up with low, and is very close to the drive indication, so for me it's not a problem.
If you have the original driveshaft, which is a rubber sleeved 2 piece, I would have one made. I'm sure you can get one over there inexpensively compared to having one shipped.
Last edited by oldcutlass; July 30th, 2012 at 10:05 AM.
July 30th, 2012, 10:13 AM
#13
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It isn't just the indicator that's different. Both column and floor shifters have a detent plate in the shift mechanism that is notched for the proper gear positions. You can buy a conversion kit for the factory floor shifter from Shiftworks. The quadrant for the column is not currently available aftermarket.
I don't know what aftermarket crossmember you're talking about, but the factory used the same one for both transmissions. You MUST weld the tabs onto the frame.
How easy is it to get a BOP shorttail TH350 in Europe? It IS a much easier swap. In fact, the only issue (other than the shifter) is the need to connect the mechanical kickdown cable to the throttle linkage.
I don't know what aftermarket crossmember you're talking about, but the factory used the same one for both transmissions. You MUST weld the tabs onto the frame.
How easy is it to get a BOP shorttail TH350 in Europe? It IS a much easier swap. In fact, the only issue (other than the shifter) is the need to connect the mechanical kickdown cable to the throttle linkage.
Unfortunately I have a column shifter...can the quadrant be modified or what else can be done?
I was talking about the crossmember which TripDeuces has recommended! It seems as if you only have to drill bigger holes for them!
It's nearly impossible to get a good BOP TH350 for a reasonable price...Most of the available transmissions are sold as defective and nobody knows if they will work or not. I was really lucky to get the 400 yesterday for that price considering that the seller advertised it locally for about 700 $!
July 30th, 2012, 10:18 AM
#14
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I like the T400, very simple to setup, passing gear is electrically actuated, no cables to mess with at the carburator, and strong as hell.
I put one in my 67, used all the column shift mechanism from the ST300. It works fine, all the shift locations are set by the trans, the column sets park/ neutral. He can use his kickdown for the his current trans if it still is functional for the passing gear.
On the indicator, I've never tried to change mine because the only real difference is 2nd gear. It will still line up with low, and is very close to the drive indication, so for me it's not a problem.
If you have the original driveshaft, which is a rubber sleeved 2 piece, I would have one made. I'm sure you can get one over there inexpensively compared to having one shipped.
I put one in my 67, used all the column shift mechanism from the ST300. It works fine, all the shift locations are set by the trans, the column sets park/ neutral. He can use his kickdown for the his current trans if it still is functional for the passing gear.
On the indicator, I've never tried to change mine because the only real difference is 2nd gear. It will still line up with low, and is very close to the drive indication, so for me it's not a problem.
If you have the original driveshaft, which is a rubber sleeved 2 piece, I would have one made. I'm sure you can get one over there inexpensively compared to having one shipped.
My driveshaft is all metal and one piece, so it will be good to be shortened?!
July 30th, 2012, 10:43 AM
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Yes, just use the one wire. My switch on the linkage was NFG, so I'm going to install one at the carb or throttle pedal one day. Just have not had the time.
On the driveshaft, intall the front yoke all the way, the pull it out 3/4 inch and measure from the center of the front yoke ujoint hole to the flat area (center of rear end ujount) take the drive shaft, the front yoke, and your measurment to a drive shaft builder, and they should put a new ujoint in, balance it, and probably return it to you in a couple of days.
To attatch the xmember you currently have. Just install your new trans, jack up the rear of the motor, install the trans mount and xmember to your trans. Then just fab some brackets to mount to the existing holes in the xmember and weld the brackets in place. Ensure your xmember is square and use the old holes on the frame for height distance.
On the driveshaft, intall the front yoke all the way, the pull it out 3/4 inch and measure from the center of the front yoke ujoint hole to the flat area (center of rear end ujount) take the drive shaft, the front yoke, and your measurment to a drive shaft builder, and they should put a new ujoint in, balance it, and probably return it to you in a couple of days.
To attatch the xmember you currently have. Just install your new trans, jack up the rear of the motor, install the trans mount and xmember to your trans. Then just fab some brackets to mount to the existing holes in the xmember and weld the brackets in place. Ensure your xmember is square and use the old holes on the frame for height distance.
August 6th, 2012, 02:49 PM
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September 1st, 2012, 07:19 AM
#22
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I'm almost finished with the swap, but I'm afraid that my newly manufactured driveshaft (the old one was bent) is too short, because we measured it on a lift instead of with weight on the tires 
I've already talked to oldcutlass (many thanks for your help and patience!) about the problem, but I think it can be better seen on pictures if the driveshaft is sticking out to far or if it's okay, so here they are.
The left red line on the first picture is with the driveshaft pushed in completely and the right line with the driveshaft installed and the car sitting on the ground.
Sorry that the folding meter stick only shows cm but I don't have one with an inch scale
I've already talked to oldcutlass (many thanks for your help and patience!
) about the problem, but I think it can be better seen on pictures if the driveshaft is sticking out to far or if it's okay, so here they are.The left red line on the first picture is with the driveshaft pushed in completely and the right line with the driveshaft installed and the car sitting on the ground.
Sorry that the folding meter stick only shows cm but I don't have one with an inch scale
September 1st, 2012, 07:44 AM
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No we still have nasty weather, I don't want to take her out
Will it rattle in case it's too short?
September 1st, 2012, 08:23 AM
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My bad was not awake yet. Sorry thats what I meant. The T400 yoke is a tight fit, and I don't think a 1.27 cm difference will make a difference.
Last edited by oldcutlass; September 1st, 2012 at 08:34 AM.
September 1st, 2012, 08:47 AM
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September 3rd, 2012, 08:01 PM
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It looks pretty good.Is that yoke splined all the way up to the opening?
With the load on the rear suspension,and the yoke all the way into the transmission,you should have to pull it out to seat into the rear axle yoke.With everything installed,you should have about 1 1/4" before bottoming the yoke out inside the transmission.
With the load on the rear suspension,and the yoke all the way into the transmission,you should have to pull it out to seat into the rear axle yoke.With everything installed,you should have about 1 1/4" before bottoming the yoke out inside the transmission.
September 4th, 2012, 07:28 AM
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It looks pretty good.Is that yoke splined all the way up to the opening?
With the load on the rear suspension,and the yoke all the way into the transmission,you should have to pull it out to seat into the rear axle yoke.With everything installed,you should have about 1 1/4" before bottoming the yoke out inside the transmission.
With the load on the rear suspension,and the yoke all the way into the transmission,you should have to pull it out to seat into the rear axle yoke.With everything installed,you should have about 1 1/4" before bottoming the yoke out inside the transmission.
Sounds, as if the length of my driveshaft is just right. With everything installed and the car standing on its wheels, I have about 1 1/5" before the yoke bottoms out inside the transmission!
Thanks I'm really relieved now
September 4th, 2012, 07:30 AM
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September 21st, 2012, 02:21 PM
#31
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Well,
finally I could take my car out for the first time with the new transmission
It shifts so smooth, that I don't feel it(but I hope it does^^), and the driveshaft works as it it should, no vibrations or any other strange things!
Only problem is the not inoperable kickdown...any ideas on that? Might be the linkage or the wire itself.
Thanks again!
It shifts so smooth, that I don't feel it(but I hope it does^^), and the driveshaft works as it it should, no vibrations or any other strange things!
Only problem is the not inoperable kickdown...any ideas on that? Might be the linkage or the wire itself.
Thanks again!
September 21st, 2012, 04:01 PM
#32
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Are you using the switch on the fire wall? Make sure at wot you have 12v at the transmission. Also as you operate the switch with everything connected your hear the solenoid in the trans click.
Disconnect the power for the switch pitch, you will see that 12v just passed idle.
Disconnect the power for the switch pitch, you will see that 12v just passed idle.
September 22nd, 2012, 04:53 PM
#33
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Yes I do! Just for better understanding: there is one orange wire that goes from the wiring harness to the throttle linkage and currently two wires leading from the throttle linkage to the transmission right?
But as the new transmission only has one male connector, I'll have to have one of the two wires diconnected, I believe it''s the black one?!
But as the new transmission only has one male connector, I'll have to have one of the two wires diconnected, I believe it''s the black one?!
October 3rd, 2012, 12:07 PM
#35
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I found the wire, but it has 12V when the gas pedal is floored and when I release the gas pedal if you know what I mean?!
I disconnected it because of that...
October 3rd, 2012, 12:35 PM
#37
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Thanks for your patience Eric
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