I may be wrong but ive done some reading on my question as i dont want to be a pain. My 67 C/S has a 330/320 100% stock & is nothing but a Sunday cruiser at best, my racing days are over. That being said, what is the easiest least aggrevating trans to install behind my motor ? ( Closest to bolt right up ) The 2 speed jetaway just wont cut it even just being a sunday driver. I have the switch pitch set up but dont want the hassle of yanking it & trying to find someone to go through it & hopefully know how to fix it. Id rather keep the stock trans in storage & find a trans to swap out as easy as possible. My limited research looks like the 200-4R, am I correct ? Is it 100% exact bolt up or are there a few hurdles ? Thank you.

 

Your car probably has a 3.07 differential ratio, which is too high of a speed for an overdrive transmission. You need at least a 3.42-3.73 for an overdrive to operate correctly. The car has worked great for 45 years with the 3.07 and a non overdrive transmission and that is what I would stay with. It will still cruise at 70 mph with no problems. The easiest transmission to install would be a TH350 or TH400. Either one will work great with your 330. A TH400 doesn't need any cable connected to your carburetor, whereas a TH350 really needs a kickdown cable connected to the bottom of the carburetor lever. this increases pressure to the transmission on moderate throttle and also enables "passing gear". Both use a vacuum modulator and the TH400 uses vacuum for moderate kickdown, and an electric switch for full throttle kickdown. I have a 67 442 with 3.07 diff ratio, and a 63 Impala with a 3.08 ratio, and they both cruise just fine. I am not interested in going 80-120 mph in an old car anymore, Been There, Done That

 

Great advice & ive run that through my head a few times. I will agree that on the highway I do 75mph all day & it floats perfectly. My beef is that because the switch pitch dont engage just leaving the line in normal traffic has the smallest of cars passing me. Im amsuming that my rear is stock as 99% of the car is. I just bought it a month ago & im slowly working my way around it. The rear is a 12 bolt but I cant seem to locate a tag or numbers on it to identify it. I read a great article on the forum the other day where as a guy installed a 200-4r with 390's in the rear & said that the car left the line with a ton of grunt but once on the hwy in ov drive it was like having 308's behind it & his MPG was amazing. Well it sounded good but im too old for that, I to have been there & done all that. I had a 67 G.S with almost 500HP & nothing but reciepts & bills to go with it. Oh yeah tickets & points too..LOL...Well maybe ill drop the trans i got, have it gone through, new gaskets etc as it does leak & maybe just throw it back in & enjoy the old girl as is.. Thank you again for all your insight & for taking your time to explain. Thanx, Ace

 

Sorry, gotta disagree. My 84 Custom Cruiser came from the factory with a 200-4r, 2.78 rear gears, a pavement ripping 140 HP 307, and probably an extra 700 lbs on that 67. Never a problem in OD. I'll also point out that the 2.74:1 first gear in the 200-4R will really wake up the car as compared to the 1.76:1 first gear in the Junkaway.

 

Joe, I know that your 84 did ok with the tall gears, but I believe that was because the engine was tuned (cam, compression, carb, valves etc) from the factory to do that. IMO, the older cars don't work as well due to the fact that were tuned to run at higher RPMs on the hiway and with a 3.07 ratio and overdrive, the net ratio would be 2.15. If I was contracted to repair his transmission, I would put in a 350, which has a 2.48 first gear and he would love driving it without spending a great deal of money. This is just my opinion.
Charles

 

Great to hear Joe & thank you for taking the time to explain. I like the term junkaway, lol. That being said & knowing the knowledge u have in this field it just may be the way im gonna go... At this present time i just removed the right side exhaust manifold as the gaskets are shot & making old Rosie sound horrible. What a difference removing these with the wider bank angle compared to my Chebby's, these manifolds are almost looking at the ground. Todays job is to scrape it & clean it up, put it back on & strat on the left side...Thank u again.

 

Thank you again Charles & for sure im taking it all in so at decision time i make the right move. I will say that after im done with nthe exhaust gasket replacement, which should be today or tomorrow the next move is the trans. Thanx again for the time & input.

 

Charles your entitled to an opinion, but Joe is correct here. There are a lot of people running that trans and around that gear set. These engines are not designed to run hi rpm, they were designed for torque at lower rpm.

 

Charles,

I have a hard time wrapping my head around the concept that a stock VIN Y 307 is capable of outperforming a 330 at under ANY conditions.

Just sayin'...

 

Uh, the wider bank angle refers to the lifters and is totally inside the block. The cylinders are at the same 90 degree bank angle as any normal V8 (yes, I said "normal", lest someone point out the second-gen SHO motor as an example...).

The reason the Olds manifolds appear lower and wider is the design of the heads. Olds used a more sharply curved exhaust port design that exits the heads lower than on a Chevy. This makes spark plug access much easier but is unfortunately the main reason why stock Olds heads flow more poorly than others. It's also why Edelbrock was able to improve exhaust flow in their aftermarket heads by making the ports SMALLER than stock - but straighter.

 

Ahhhh hah now i see & yes the plugs come out of this like cake. Thank u so much for the explaination. Im not sure how u learned all this but u sure have a head full of gear knowledge.. I appreciate all the input as it helps me get closer to becoming the master that u are... Thank you paisan.. Ace

 

AHHHHhahhhhh now I see. Great to know so I dont sound like an *** next time...Thanx Joe.........

 

I'm going to swap in a 3.23 or 3.42 in my 85, it's stock with a 2.78 atm. The 307 is for sure a low end power motor, so putting a shorter gear in it with the 2004R trans should get it off the line a bit faster. Go with a 3.08 if you want to keep decent MPG, really you could go up to 3.42 and stay decent on the MPG.

 

Thanx bdub. I see that u love changing rear diff gearing as a first choice in all your threads. There is a bigger science to this then most realize, trans, final drive, max rpm for max h.p etc..Ive had friends who were hear it down for every project & ive seen many things get screwed up royally...Just my 2 cents. But thank u