I'm in the process of converting my '69 442 convertible from an auto trans to a Tremec 6-speed. This is my first convertible and I'm finding out that there are differences in transmission cross members (convertible vs. hardtops). Mine does not appear to be removable. It seems to be held captive between the frame and body in a slot at each end of the cross member. This makes installing and removing the Tremec trans very difficult.

Does anyone out there have any advice for me on this topic? Does anyone sell a removable cross member for this car?

Thanks,
-Martin

 

68-72 insides of the frame rails are formed with a ledge that the cross member sits on, and is bolted to.

 

Yes, but is it normal to not be able to remove the cross member? It slides forward and aft but I was not able to remove it from the car on my first attempt. I'll get after it a little more seriously this weekend and see what happens. I just had new body bushings installed before I started the trans project. That may be related. Thanks for the reply.

 

Jack up the trans. Remove the trans mount. Slide one end of the crossmember forward and one end back, until you can get it out.

 

Thanks Joe but that's the first thing I tried. Maybe I need to persuade it a little more aggressively?

 

Is it wedging against the underside of the floor? I've sometimes had to use aggressive persuasion in that situation.

 

Thanks Joe. Aggressive persuasion with a big rubber mallet worked very well. I was told that the spacing of the cross member mounting holes in the frame should be 47.5". Mine are measuring around 47.1". I know there was a side collision toward the rear in this cars past.

Now if I could only persuade my transmission to fully engage with my pilot bearing. The clutch alignment tool slips in and out very easily. I'm sure I just have to be gentle and to talk to her real nice like and hope for the best.

Thanks again for your help.
-Martin

 

Two suggestions. First, be sure the nose of the input shaft doesn't have any burrs or marks. Clean it up with emery cloth if necessary. Second, are you using guide rods in the upper two trans-to-bellhousing bolt holes to support the trans when you insert it? You can buy them but I just get bolts of the appropriate length, cut the heads off, and cut a slot in the end so I can back them out with a screwdriver once the trans is in place.

 

I use an actual trans input because the plastic tools are a sloppy fit. If you use a plastic tool, wiggle it up and down, side to side to get the clutch disc centered as well as possible.
At this point, attach the linkage and have a buddy depress the clutch pedal while you wiggle the trans and slip it into place, using the guides as Joe P. recommended.

 

^^^THIS. I've frequently had to do this (and yes, I have one of the sloppy pilot tools).

 

All good ideas. I'll try them. One quick question....

My conversion kit instructions from American Powertrain say to use anti-seize lube to lubricate the input shaft splines and the tip that engages the pilot bearing. I was nervous about using any lube for fear it would end up on the friction surfaces of the clutch. Opinions?

 

On all my Mustangs, I would use a pry bar to move the fork and depress the clutch so the input shaft would glide in. If it doesn't glide in and the face of the trans doesn't meet the face of the bellhousing, you're asking for trouble.

 

When depressing the clutch, won't that just push the transmission away from the engine? It seems that I would somehow have to overcome the force of disengaging the clutch to push the input shaft into the pilot bearing.

 

With the stock mechanical clutch linkage, no. The arm pivots on the bellhousing, which is bolted to the engine. Now, if you have a hydraulic throwout bearing, you are correct. This method will not work.

 

I am installing a hydraulic clutch mechanism. I like the idea of the guide rods. I will try this and hope for the best. Thanks!

 

To Joe and others that have contributed to my Olds 442 project.... Thanks for all the help relative to installing my Tremec trans. Yesterday, I made the guide pins (thanks Joe), used anti-seize lube on the splines and tip for the pilot bearing and it slipped in very easily. Now, on to the rest of the conversion. I'm sure you will be hearing more from me. Cheers.

 

Martin, how'd your swap project turn out?

 

Hurst makes a new crossmember that fits both convertible, and hard top it’s a three piece crossmember which makes installing a breeze. I installed mine with a polyurethane trans mount. The transmount perch is adjustable for some minor tweaking of the pinion angle. The part number is 67510020 from Hurst driveline. I was unable to use my factory crossmember, I had to cut and flange it to make it a two piece in order to slide it into place.

 

So far, so good. It shifts nicely and is almost all broken in. My 3.07 gear is too tall and I'm going to change to a 3.73 gear. I'm also waiting for a local fabricator to make my new tunnel. Thanks for asking.

 

With a similar transmission I used a 4.10 rear gear. I chose that gear so that first gear overall ratio (rear gear times first gear ratio) would be about 11:1, which is what many higher-performance cars use.

With 28-inch-tall tires, my engine RPM at 80 mph in 6th gear is still only 2030. I could theoretically get to 140 mph in 5th gear at 5330 rpm. And I can still be in 4th gear at the end of the quarter-mile.

 

wow ! I read this too late what a great idea! I used the alignment tool that came with the centerforce kit and did manage to muscle the m20 up and in off the floor jack but this would have made it so much easier! I’ll know for next time thank you