SkylinesSuck

I pulled my motor a month ago to take care of some stuff. The car is sitting in the driveway with the tranny still installed and held up with a ratchet strap. Tq converter is still on the tranny too. I just noticed a massive puddle bellow the car of what is obviously tranny fluid. Maybe a quart or so from a slow leak. It didn't leak before--at least not like this. Looks like the strap which is just in front of the front lip of the pan is covered, so it's in the front some where. So my basic questions are, are there any normal culprits? Can the tq converter leak if it's unbolted and just sitting pushed back against the tranny a tad? Can I just pull it off and look behind it for a leak? Looking for guidance on how to troubleshoot I guess. Don't want to bugger something else up.

droldsmorland

Yes if the converter is not supported and the trans is angled nose down from its original position then yes fluid can bypass the front seal. While you have access pull the converter and replace that seal with HD truck seal. Pack Vaseline behind the seal to keep the lip spring in place. Vaseline the converter snout before inserting...lol...Do you know how to properly install a converter back into a trans?

SkylinesSuck

Sounds about how it's sitting. Not resting on the ground by any means, but lower than it would be if the motor was attached. I will read up on what you mentioned and I'm sure come up with more questions. And no, never touched a torque converter until I phlleud this motor. Not sure how it goes back on. 20 years of driving and this is my first automatic transmission'd car!

pogo69

x2 on this... basically if the converter has pulled forward off the shaft this is your leak it will be a good idea to carefully install a good front seal upon reinstall

SkylinesSuck

Thanks guys. Looking at seals and seein a bunch listed with not very good descriptions. Would you be able to help out with a part number or link to what I need to order? Especially that HD truck one mentioned. Thank you for the help!

droldsmorland

When installing a torque converter follow these steps:
1. Fill the converter with the correct trans fluid. Pour directly into it. But not to the top just so you can see it. If its already been on the car chances are it will only take a quart or two at most. If it was a new converter it would take 5-6 or more
2. Rub some fluid on the snout or use Vaseline so the converter snout surface isn't dry while installing, as that will take the seal out as soon as you turn the engine on.
3. Try to insert it into the trans as parallel as possible so you dont damage the new seal.
4. Once you get it started into the trans push towards the trans while rotating is back n forth... say 15-20* left and right.
5. It will bottom out.
6. Next you need to seat it a second time. The snout needs to seat into the pump lugs. This is the most important step...rotate 180* back n forth while pushing towards the trans until you get a second "seat" even deeper into the trans. If you dont get this second seat you will shear off the pump drive. Hell you wont even be able to get the trans to bolt to the engine block. If you not sure you got it(as sometimes you can get it on the first attempt if it just happened to be lined up)...pull it out again and repeat until your confident you got the double seating.
7 You can see it when its not seated as you will have 2-3" of space behind the converter. When its properly seated all the way there isnt much space at all between the rear of the converter and the front of the trans.

SkylinesSuck

Awesome write up, thanks. Is this the part I need?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=64092&cc=1217742&jnid=492&jpid=2

If so, anything else I should do while I'm in there? I assume it's pointless to change converters on an otherwise stock low compression 350.

droldsmorland

Yes thats it.
But Id call your local NAPA and get the Truck Heavy Duty seal.
Converters are replaced when you do a rebuild, if theres a problem, if the seal surface on the snout is badly grooved or you want a different stall RPM.
So if all is ok and your happy with the stock performance no need to change.

"anything else I should do while I'm in there?"

Yes a bunch of (MAWs).... Do a filter and fluid change on the trans using the recommended fluid and high quality filter(NAPA, Federated, United etc). I like the black rubber pan gasket verses the cork. Generally no RTV is required here. Careful not to over torque the pan bolts. After driving the car for a while re-torque the pan bolts as the gasket settles. Careful with the filter seal(O-Ring). Make sure the old seal comes out with the old filter. If not gently dig it out. Also a good time to buy a pan with a drain plug or get the drain plug kit (Summit or Jegs) to install into your pan. Makes future fluid/filter changes easier and neater. Fluid and filter should be changed every 20-25K in these old cars. Inspect the tail shaft seal and slip yoke too. Might as well change that seal too. same drill applies for installation. Careful to not score up the seal outer surface in the trans when pulling the old seal. Apply a thin coat of black or clear RTV to the OD of both seals before installation. Dont forget to pack the back side with Vaseline to help retain the lip spring. Might as well(MAW) inspect the driveshaft ujoints while the shafts out. They should feel smooth and free.

SkylinesSuck

Wonderful, thanks. I would love to order the HD truck seal from Napa, but the closest one is half way around the world for me. I'm in Japan I will vdt.to ordering, thanks again!

pogo69

I wouldnt stress out about finding a heavy duty seal a good quality one national for example will do...its more important that it is installed carefully and the rubber area not distorted when tapping it in...if you dont have a seal installer use a block of wood to tap it in once its centered

SkylinesSuck

Okay, I have researched and watched a few videos on how to seat the converter. Between droldsmorland's description and those videos, I feel confident I can get it on there correctly.

About the seal R&R though, I'm having a little trouble finding a good step by step for that (still waiting on the seal to arrive from the States so no rush). How should I go about removing it without buggering anything up, and then installing it again?

pogo69

first be carefull removing old seal you dont want to gouge pump shaft bushing...use a seal puller or pry up carefully with a screw driver...clean housing and apply rtv around outter new seal and under lip if you have a seal installer this is best if not use a block of wood to center and tap seal in until flush..if new seal starts to go in a little crooked tap on opposite side until it stays centered....lubricate rubber before installing on shaft

droldsmorland

What pogo said and Google seal removal and installation to see how others do it. A common seal remover can work. The screwdriver method can work. A light duty slide hammer with a hook or a J shaped end can work. A small cross cut cape chisel works too. If the traditional common seal puller doesn't work, which it may not as this common seal puller is designed to pull oil seals where there isnt a shaft coming through the center. The you have to use method 2; The screwdriver or cape chisel(preferred) to pry up the outer edge of the seal. You may have to go around the entire outer lip to get it to pop out. Damage to the seal when removing is expected. Do not damage the seal seating cavity in the trans nor mar the shaft.
Once the seal is removed clean everything up.
A seal installation tool is the best for installation. But its a specialized tool for this application. Which you probably don't have access to. But Google it anyway as Summit or Jegs may offer a cheapo installation tool?
Installation:
1. Apply a thin layer of RTV to the seals OD.
2.Pack the rear of the seal with Vaseline as I previously mentioned.
3.Seat the new seal by hand at first. Try to get it started and centered. Then using a very small hammer start to tap it in evenly. Try to aim the taps towards the inner circumference of the outer most metal lip, this area is stronger than the outer edge and is less likely to distort. You may want to use a long drift or socket extension to assist in tapping around the outer edge. You want to tap the seal at even intervals around the outer metal lip. The object is to get the seal to come down as evenly as possible with out distorting or bending the metal shell. If you tweak the seal its garbage start over. Once its close to where it belongs you can now start to tap along the outer most portion of the metal lip to get it to mate flush with the trans housing.

Tried to send you a ppt showing the seal area to hit but I cant get a ppt or any other file to load up on the finicky site.

SkylinesSuck

Thank you very much! Going tool hunting tomorrow. They have a place here that is the rough equivalent of harbor freight that might have some of the above mentioned tools.

pogo69

#3 pic is all you need if you cant find it use a heavy screw drive to just grab the inner lip and pry out...sometimes they are in there real good

droldsmorland

Chris,
I just sent your personal email a PPT showing you what I could not here. No matter how I load the file or which format I choose it says invalid file, quite frustrating in deed!
I also found cheap front pump seal installation tools. Do your self a favor; if your not an experienced seal installer get the tool it makes seal installation almost effortless.

pogo69

i agree about the seal installation experience...it can be easy to muck it up and since your in japan you want to do it only once without trashing the seal and since the shaft is in the way it makes it a little more difficult mainly because it is hard to keep the seal centered as it is installed if it is installed to far crooked you cant get it installed without trashing it....i made this tool from metal conduit and it makes it a snap...you can use wood drilling the center out and pvc tube to install also....sometimes if tools are not available you have to use your mind and just take your time