67w30

Now that I have a driveshaft that fits, I have some concerns. First one, the driveshaft I'm going to use is a two piece w rubber, will this twist easily? The 200-4r installed should have a good shift kit! Second, What can I do to upgrade it w/o buying a custom made one? I measured the length, 60 3/4 in from center of U-joint to center of U-joint and a 3 1/2 inch diameter. I know that that some 94-newier GM full size and GM 2wd trucks came w/ aluminum driveshafts, anyone know where I could find lengths of these shafts? Maybe even a 96 caprice station wagon or Vista Cursier driveshaft.....I would like aluminum and one piece!!! What do you guys think?
I have a 67 Cutlass w/ a 200-4r trans and a Ford 9in rear. Any Help?
Anyone have a 96 Vista and could measure their driveshaft? Be greatly appreciated!!!

Run to Rund

OEM aluminum driveshafts are of variable and minimum quality. Rubber insert driveshafts belong in the dumpster if you have a performance car. Hard to keep balanced and can fail. I would get a Mark Williams Masterline shaft complete with billet steel yoke and be done with it. Not all yokes have the same distance from seal surface to u-joints. For example, Saginaw (GM) T400 yokes are usually 2" while aftermarket and Spicer T400 yokes are 2.5".

When you order a shaft (MW is pretty fast and excellent quality, 1/8" wall 6061 Aluminum, high strength non-greasable Spicer 1350 u-joints) have a very good measurement from the end of the tranny tailhousing to the centerline of the rear u-joint. You want 1" or a max of 1.25" withdrawal of the yoke from the seal. Meaning, you can push the shaft in another inch before the yoke impacts the seal.

67w30

Yeah, I figured the Two piece/Rubber driveshaft is gonna be junk! But its all I got now. Was hoping to see if I could find a aluminum one out of the junkyard or ebay form a good car. Custom driveshafts are $475 to $700 plus shipping. I have a what would be considered a nice street car, Maybe a little drag racing but only when I get this driveshaft figured out and really only to see my time- thats all. I have been building this car for some time and there is nothing crazy or extreme about it. I'm gonna use the Two piece/Rubber shaft just to get her moving and work the bugs out. I have changed alot about the car. Thanks for the input.
Ken

oldsconv

I just had a new driveshaft made by Anca's in Schenectady (upstate NY) but I think he does aluminum also (steel was $240 with my tranny yoke). It is heavy duty .085 wall tubing. Driveline service on Broadway Ave in Albany NY also does them. You probably need to find someout out in the country like me where it is cheaper like maybe in PA somewhere?

citcapp

Nothing wrong with steel drive shafts, go for it and save the rest of the money for beer or other car parts or 50/50 beer and car parts

67w30

Having a local driveshaft shop make me a steel shaft. $300 w/ my yoke and spicer U Joints. Figured I'd go for it. He wanted $50 to install new U Joint and $50 to balance plus the U joints, After that I figured $300 was a deal. The name of the shop is 'Mr.Driveshaft', Figures!!
Thanks Guys!
I'm looking for an original inspection cover/flywheel cover for a 200-4r w/ the starter hole on the driver side. Anyone have one? Thanks