As the title suggests, all know a 200r4 is weak in stock form, but my combo is pretty tame. I don't have the money to swap in a manual so its pretty much the only path to OD glory.

I plan on keeping the stock cam, and want to cruise and road trip more than put slicks on and race. With an estimated 225 hp and mid 8:1 compression, would a stock unit in good working condition hold up for a while?

I dont care if it barks tires, and the motor will never be making 550 hp so a built unit seems unneeded. Hell, I'll probably never be making 275.

I have a LSD, and run slightly wide radials in back, on 3.42 gears so between the low torque motor, and high gearing, I'm thinking I might get by! Thoughts?

 

note: searched my guts out, no one is asking about motors that make d*ck squat for hp...

also which models to seek out as being decent in stock form and usable in this application would be appreciated, that should really be on a sticky or tech page.

I have the th400 crossmember and am ready to shop.

 

The best units are from the Buick GN, MonteCarlo SS, and Hurst Olds. These are identified by the trans tag and will have the a 2-3 letter designation:
Buick GN - BRF or BQ
Monte SS - CZF
Hurst Olds - KZF or OZ
One of these may live for a while in a low HP situation, but probably not for long if you drive it hard.

 

All 2004R trans from model year 84 and up are identical internally except for calibration. Calibration changes include valve body, servo, and governor. If you have a non-performance trans in good condition the best way to hop one up is to contact CK Performance and get his valve body package. It includes the valve body, servo and governor. He has several options depending on desired shift points.

If the TV cable is adjusted correctly, and the trans is in good condition with the correct calibration it will reliably handle 300hp. It will PROBABLY handle more, but the forward clutch housing becomes a unknown weak link. They are unpredictable when it will break.

I have covered this topic a couple times, do a search and some reading. These are good transmissions when set up right.

 

A lot 200R4's didn't even survive behind 307's.

Something to consider if you were thinking of just tossing it behind the 350 w/o beefing it up any.

 

rat vs matt: pick a side!!

one reasons my 225 hp is within reasonable use of a stock transmission

one reasons even a boat anchor can frag em.

 

I've busted two behind stock pavement-ripping 140 HP VIN Y motors...

 

With a 3.42 why not just go th350. Run a short 26. In tall drag radial at the track and a taller tire on the street like say a 275 60 15 to keep rpms down . I would not go th400 as you are trying to hit a certain et. Everyone say's a th400 will eat 25 hp. I'm testin tha theory next year. Baselining with a th400 then trying the th350 I built and see how much I speed up et. Wise.

 

And I have put them behind mild 455 and 403 engines. These were stock fresh from the salvage yard. Is it ideal? Probably not. But the point is, if they are set up correctly (the TV cable HAS to be right, no "close enough") and is in good condition there is no reason it wont live a happy life behind a mild 350.

 

its th350 now and i wouldnt road trip it on a bet with my 3.42's, pops 66 was a dog after he swapped in a 400 for a jetaway, the th350 he has now is way more responsive behind his hot 330

first time he ever admitted i was right (about a car thing)

 

th350 would eat less power than an od though huh. ...just a thought but those "ideal" units seem to be out of some pretty exclusive vehicles. dont see many in junkyards. consensus would be if i just got one out of grammas caddy a basic freshening and some mods wouid be advisable even at this hp.

 

Get the big Trans Go reprogramming kit. It comes with a better servo and line boost valves. I used the green spring for the tv valve and gained 800 rpm full throttle shifting, before 4000 rpm, now 4800. I also changed the stator and upgraded to a 13 vane pump, some claim the 10 vane is the best. A spacer or deep pan and 700R4or 4L60E filter also helps. I have had them last behind a mild 403 and 350 with stock internals. Only reason the original 2004R went was a crappy aftermarket converter imploded.

 

4800 sounds perfect for a stock cam like mine.

how much approximately is labor to have a unit prepped professionally with this kit? honestly the th350 will be fine for a while. I have a crown vic for the interstate and i like taking back roads anyway! 3.42's do fine at 45 or 50... just not 75

Freshening a cheap one into a high end stock or slightly higher than stock spec sounds like a doable thing, and a much better idea than seeking out a rare/sought after stock unit to use as is. I'll google the kit.

 

By the time you are on your second transmission you could have built a solid one the first time. Think about it. Then you can hammer it all you want

 

yeah. totally bro.

im not gonna build it SOLID, but some well meaning upgrades and a freshening should be ok. If i planned to add significantly more HP, had BB swap aspirations, or wanted to run slicks i'd definitely be thinking about a more substantial build.

honestly, when it comes to automatics, im not a hammer on it kinda guy though. Aside from when im trying to run someone, i usually drive like ol granny in her caddy probably did. Just tearing around town isnt really my thing and im generally pretty soft on hard parts

I'll probably put the most money into a good converter.

 

and that kit at 135$ seems like a deal.

Can this be installed in my garage or should a pro be retained to freshen up the unit and install the kit's contents? My transmission guy passed on about 6 months after he built my camaro a nitrous minded 700r4... never did get it to him for tv cable adjustment

...chirping the tires DOES kinda have some appeal. Anyone else use this kit? What can I expect?

 

Nice firm shifts. I have chirped second on occasion, warm pavement and tires. I skipped the dual feeding direct part, it is an optional step. There can be breakage on a stock internal 2004R and I use slicks. If you are getting it overhauled, a competent shop can do it. That is what they say in the instructions, professionals only, not hard with good skills.

 

If you decide to go with the 2004R, install a stator support tube in the pump. The factory ones weren't hardened, the aftermarkets are. Since the pump will be out for that, install a 10 vane rotor and hardened rings. The are factory 87 and up 700R4 pumps are 10 vane with hardened rings, my trans supplier sells them for $25 and will interchange with the 2004R.

I haven't used the trans-go kit with the servo yet, from what I have seen and read people seem to like them. The dual feed isn't recommended unless a hardened forward housing is used, the shaft will snap on the 2-3 shift.

 

THAT is sounding like a transmission guys job. merry christmas everyone!

what is dual feed pray tell?

 

Once the pump is removed its pretty easy to swap stator support tube. There is some technical steps needed to install the hardened rings and pump rotor, but if you can read a book its also pretty easy. If its more than you want to tackle I cant imagine a trans shop charging much to do the work.

As for the dual feed modification, for some reason Hydro-Matic decided it would be worthwhile to split the direct clutch into 2 separate chambers. One chamber (smaller of the 2) is applied in high gear, and the larger for reverse. The dual feed mod allows both chambers to be used in both high gear and reverse. This allows maximum clutch pack capacity and shift firmness, due to the added apply area of the piston. The TH400, TH350, 4L80E and the 2004R all do this, most high end shift kits do away with the separate piston chambers. Its pretty easy to do the mods internally during a overhaul. It seems to me that its a big added expense that doesn't serve much purpose.

 

Cant wait to see how that works out! the 330 revs faster now, but my dad isnt ET inclined...

 

In addition to the hard pump rings, get a stiff sonnax spring to put in the slide. Also get the hard Sun shell. If you plan on any type of snappy 1-2 a good carbon band is a must. Along with a bigger servo setup.
Assembly can make or break it so if tour guy can't follow the specs in the book you might want to do it yourself. Too tight it burns up, too loose it doesn't go far with out incurring wear due to loose clearance .

 

I would try to find a good BRF or BQ as listed above. Make sure you get the TC with it. Don't expect it to be inexpensive.
If you pay junk $, it will likely be junk.

 

I went hardened rings, stiffer pump spring, and 13 vane pump because I had it in a basically new 4L60E pump. These trans can be tricky to build and get the shifts where you want it.

 

If you check the online service manuals, they show how to break down and rebuilt all the common trannies. Contrary to common belief, it's not rocket science ... there's no pixie dust at work in there. Tearing one down really only takes basic tools that most gearheads already have. A little time with some 1/4" stock and a grinder and drill can fab up the $300 specialty tools in an hour. A bit of stiff wire bent in two and crimped into the end of a bit of old 1/4" copper plumbing tube all from the scrap bin does the job as a lip seal tool and costs nothing. There's plenty of information online already concerning upgrades.

Hardened parts and taking pistons into the local machine shop to be cut thinner to allow space for an additional plate are all it takes to 'toughen one up' ... of course finding the 'improved' valve bodies doesn't hurt either. These are all available and while a pro shop can make a 4r happy behind 500hp ... they're not doing anything you can't do yourself. They've just made all the mistakes already and learned from them. Things like getting that TV cable perfect.