New clutch slipping

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Old April 12th, 2013, 10:50 PM
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New clutch slipping

Put the TKO 5 speed in the car. Fresh 455 too. Took it for a ride and while in third gave it a decent amount of gas, never touched the secondaries. The clutch slipped! I checked to make sure there was no tension on the clutch fork as in having the assembly riding on the fork keeping the clutch from engaging all the way. Checked it twice. Even adjusted it a touch further making the pedal a bit higher. Question, do these centerforce clutches require a breakin period? I have never had this happen before. Anyone?
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Old April 13th, 2013, 06:30 AM
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All clutches require break in. It will slip easiest in high gear.
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Old April 13th, 2013, 07:32 AM
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Try not to slip it for long periods of time to prevent glazing the friction disc.
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Old April 13th, 2013, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Run to Rund
All clutches require break in. It will slip easiest in high gear.
Please explain, the part about all clutches require break in, as I've never heard this before. (I agree with your second statement.)
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Old April 13th, 2013, 08:32 AM
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Yeah. Went to Centerforce website. They said to be cool with it until a few miles were put on. Never knew this although usually I have a new motor in front of said clutch and am taking it easy anyway. I have never had a new clutch slip like this. I'll wait to see what happens. Thanks for the input. That said, I'm sure I haven't glazed it. It only slipped twice and not for any length of time.
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Old April 13th, 2013, 09:13 AM
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Yes, CF Clutches require up to 500 miles easy street driving before heavy but outs)
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Old April 13th, 2013, 09:53 AM
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This is a new one on me. I have never used a CF clutch, but of all of the clutches I have installed in my life, I have never had one slilp even a little bit. What is it that causes a CF clutch to slip?
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Old April 13th, 2013, 03:42 PM
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A new clutch might not slip if its torque capacity is sufficient before there is full contact between the friction facing and the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces.
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Old April 13th, 2013, 05:05 PM
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I have heard of having to brake in a new clutch, however, it shouldn't slip. I would give midway industries a call and question them about about your issue. Center force does not make any clutches. They take stock clutches and modify them to their specs. That is why I have never used their clutch set ups.

The clutches that I have used with no issues are: McCloud, Hays, GM W-37 set up.

Hope this helps.
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Old April 13th, 2013, 05:20 PM
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The CF disc has special friction material on one side, and CF is adament about following their break in procedure. But, a new clutch shouldn't slip.
Joe my 442 came with the w-37 dual disc, I pulled it out years ago...still have it.
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Old April 13th, 2013, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dc2x4drvr
The CF disc has special friction material on one side, and CF is adament about following their break in procedure. But, a new clutch shouldn't slip.
Joe my 442 came with the w-37 dual disc, I pulled it out years ago...still have it.
I have the W-37 unit in my cutlass w-31. I had it rebuilt years ago, and at time I had them change the center hubs to 10 spline units. Is yours for sell?
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Old April 13th, 2013, 09:17 PM
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It is getting better with miles being put on it. I made sure everything was AOK last night. I modified the bar between the clutch fork and the Z-Bar. It was too long and I could see it was scraping the header when I pushed the clutch in. Took it for a long street drive tonight. No highway. All stop and go and it seems to grab very well now. I have such jitters when everything is new. I hate to break stuff. Oil press is great and steady. Having a 5 speed is really cool.
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Old April 14th, 2013, 05:29 AM
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Good luck with that, You'll have to take Tobin on another rip and post so we can see. What"s your set up now? 455, TKO 5-speed and 3.73's?
What's in the video (I know 4 spd.)
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Old April 14th, 2013, 07:45 AM
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Yes sir. That is exactly my drive train. Video shows an M-20 Muncie that I sold to a guy on this site. I've put a total of 45 miles on it since Tuesday. Had it out last night. Got it home and started to clean it. My buddy says I have a problem with certain detail things. I like stuff as near perfect as I can get them. Neat having a 5th gear though, I must say.
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Old April 14th, 2013, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by z11375ss
Yes sir. That is exactly my drive train. Video shows an M-20 Muncie that I sold to a guy on this site. I've put a total of 45 miles on it since Tuesday. Had it out last night. Got it home and started to clean it. My buddy says I have a problem with certain detail things. I like stuff as near perfect as I can get them. Neat having a 5th gear though, I must say.
How was it installing the 5 speed? What mods did you have to do? Pics?
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Old April 14th, 2013, 08:38 AM
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Complete new trans tunnel. The car is not a numbers matching original, etc so I had no problem modifying it. Keisler makes a unit that requires NO trans tunnel mods, now. LOL! No pics of the install. Just think of a Muncie coming out and a Tremec going in. It's about that simple. No hydraulic clutch or anything like that. The kit provides everything you might need like speedo cable, correct speedo gear for your rear, trans mount, etc. Bolts right to the stock bell housing.
As per usual, after the trans is in you must measure for the drive shaft. They custom make it for you. It takes about 3 weeks for them to deliver that. You grind your teeth on that when the whole build is done except for the drive shaft! I have a thread on here that says, Finally, the Olds is back home. There are a couple of pics there if you care to find it.
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Old April 14th, 2013, 08:41 AM
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How much did you have to cut the drive shaft? And how much mods to the tunnel? And what RPM would you be turning at 60 MPH?
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Old April 14th, 2013, 02:32 PM
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I would have to compare old drive shaft length to new considering it is a completely new piece. They ask you to measure for the new drive shaft included with the kit and then you wait three weeks for that to arrive. It's different that is for sure. The tunnel was cut out and enlarged and welded back in with extra metal by a couple of inches. @60 I think it's turning 1800 rpm, maybe. Do the math. 3.73x.64=2.38 final drive ratio. That's a nice highway gear if I ever saw one.
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Old April 14th, 2013, 04:33 PM
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Just had the car out. 1900rpm @60mph.
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Old May 11th, 2013, 11:35 PM
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Found the reason for the clutch slipping. The clutch I was using is for a motor with 400 ft lbs of torque or less. Obviously the new motor is putting down quite a bit more than that. I am going from an 11 inch disc to a 13 inch disc. Hope this fixes it. Centerforce was helpful in finding my problem.
The motor was gone through again and puts down even more power than before (balanced, blueprinted, minor porting) so maybe that was the problem. I'll see. the car as of now is getting a bigger radiator and electric fans. I hate to lose the stocker fan but the car was running at 180 degrees plus during around town travel in cool weather. I don't want to end up in Tennessee with any issues. The wiring is being cleaned up and the lowering springs are in. New tires, heater core, radiator, springs, that should make the car even more road worthy. I hope to make it Power Tour on June 6th without any problems. We shall see. If I make it, pics will be posted for sure. Wish me luck, please.
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Old May 12th, 2013, 04:24 AM
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"The motor was gone through again and puts down even more power than before (balanced, blueprinted, minor porting) so maybe that was the problem."

Hey Jim
Hope you can get a clutch to hold the "problem" 455. Hang On Tobin!
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Old May 12th, 2013, 07:58 AM
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Will do joe. Thanks Brian.
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Old May 12th, 2013, 09:02 AM
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I have a Center Force DFX model in my race car (Nostalgia W-31 in avatar). When I first tried it out, it chattered. I called Center Force, told them my combo., and they said go "beat the snot" out of it. That thing hits HARD. I can side step the clutch at 4500 and carry the wheels a good 8-10 inches with a "good" 350SBO, Muncie 21 (220 1st gear)and 4:33s, and 9" M&H slicks. Looking back, I think that clutch is "TOO" good for my car. I'm afraid to flat-shift because of the lack of a rev-limiter, and honestly, my competitive racing days are behind me. I was a little shocked when he told me (the CF rep) what to do, but he was right. I really want to dump it at about 6500-7000rpm (the motor can take it), but I'm afraid the Muncie, or 12 bolt with stock axles will come loose.
I put a McLeod in my '72 442 "mild"350 SBO, Muncie 20 (252 1st gear) and 3:91s, and I haven't driven it out of the driveway yet---but it feels REAL good so far.
There is a small video of me with the W-31 "testing"; if you Google---DAVID SILTMAN NOSTALGIA---you'll see what I mean.

Brian, I'm glad that car (your's now) went to a good home, I found a couple more pics, and it has been 10 years now since I had it. My, how time flies when you're having fun!!!
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Old May 12th, 2013, 10:05 AM
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Lol fyi

z11375ss the current owner of daves former olds name is Jim
He is owned by a happy hound named Tobin
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Old May 12th, 2013, 03:02 PM
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Thanks for the correction. I have spoken with him a couple of times, but honestly either didn't get or don't remember his name. SORRY!!!
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Old May 12th, 2013, 07:09 PM
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Howdy Dave and Brian. Dave the car has a fresh 455 with a TKO 5 speed. When I give it a little gas, 20 dollar bills shoot out the tailpipe! I think the last time I talked to you it had a new warmed over 350 which I couldn't leave alone. I remember you saying that car rode and drove like a Caddy. You should feel it at speed with the 5th gear engaged. It just floats so nice. Oh yeah, I forgot the new lowering springs, radiator and electric fans.
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