hydraulic clutch in a 68??
#1
hydraulic clutch in a 68??
I'm thinking of doing a 4 speed swap and wondering if its possible to go with a hydraulic clutch setup. I'm looking at either going with a muncie or a t-10. Thanks for any info.
#2
i know Mondello had a kit to do this many years ago. i figure they still offer one but they likely just purchased it from somewhere else and reselling them. it looked like a throwout bearing attached to a hydraulic lifter mechanism. i am sure there are kits out there.
it would sure make it easier to run headers on a 4 speed car with one.
it would sure make it easier to run headers on a 4 speed car with one.
Last edited by jensenracing77; January 24th, 2012 at 01:37 PM.
#3
Many vendors sell hydraulic throwout bearings that can be used. Check Summit or Jegs. The Muncie is the same for Olds and Chevy, so you have a good selection. You'll obviously need to adapt a clutch master cylinder.
#4
Thanks for the info. The reason I'm asking is the 455 in my car is a newer block that does not have the threaded location needed to mount the z bar for clutch linkage. I figured this may be a way around that. Let me know if I am over looking something here, but it sounds doable!
#5
I bought a muncie m-20 4 speed. I'm wondering if the cross member from the 2 speed glide will work with the 4 speed? Just trying to figure out what other parts I'm going to need!
#7
I installed a hyd. clutch setup in my '68, purchased from Keisler Engineering. They have a nice package with the release bearing, hose, and master cylinder, which make installation a snap. You'll just have to be careful with the line if you run headers. I've had mine for 3 years now...no problems, and shifts like a charm. ALOT smoother than that mechanical linkage
Yes, the cross member will work, you may have to move it to a different set of holes on the frame (there are several sets from the factory), however your driveshaft may not be the correct length, and you may have to change the parking brake cable length.
Hope this helps
Greg
Yes, the cross member will work, you may have to move it to a different set of holes on the frame (there are several sets from the factory), however your driveshaft may not be the correct length, and you may have to change the parking brake cable length.
Hope this helps
Greg
#10
I don't know if you went ahead and bought the hydraulic clutch set up but if you're going to run a Muncie I'd save the money and tweak a bracket to work:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...r-bracket.html
There are more threads like this too
The other issue you have is your crank probably isn't drilled for the input shaft on the tranny
edit:
I just realized this is like two years old. I don't have the bolt size but the pressure plate bolts will probably be the same length whether it's a Olds, Pontiac, Buick or Chevy application
edit again:
From a quick search here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...r-bracket.html
There are more threads like this too
The other issue you have is your crank probably isn't drilled for the input shaft on the tranny
edit:
I just realized this is like two years old. I don't have the bolt size but the pressure plate bolts will probably be the same length whether it's a Olds, Pontiac, Buick or Chevy application
edit again:
From a quick search here:
Depending on stock or aftermarket flywheel, they are 7/16 x 20 and can be .85, .875, or 1". If they are too long, they will hit the block. Yet you want them to engage every thread of the crank. Pressure plate bolts have long shoulders, 3/8 x 16 thread, 1" long. Mr. Gasket (#910) and others (e.g. Pioneer S-1120) have them. With a thin .34" thick flanged Cat flywheel, for example, the ARP 240-2801 bolt, .85" long, is good. The stock flywheel flange is .48" thick, and 1" long flywheel bolts work. Original equipment flywheel bolts were 59/64" long (.92")
Last edited by allyolds68; January 16th, 2014 at 01:18 PM.
#13
My enjine builder at the time said the crank was drilled, should be good there. I've been doing some reading and have a few questions.
1. steering column support, can I just cut a hole in my factory piece?
2.nuetral safety switch goes on the clutch pedal, where to get these parts?
3.reverse light switch, where is this mounted, where to get these parts?
4. reverse lock out rods and bracket, what is this for, where do I get these parts?
Thanks again guys
1. steering column support, can I just cut a hole in my factory piece?
2.nuetral safety switch goes on the clutch pedal, where to get these parts?
3.reverse light switch, where is this mounted, where to get these parts?
4. reverse lock out rods and bracket, what is this for, where do I get these parts?
Thanks again guys
#15
It's technically not a "reverse lockout", it's a shifter lock that prevents the shifter from moving if the steering column is locked. The shifter lock was part of the federally-mandated locking steering column that was required staring in the 1969 model year.
#17
#18
OK Joe, I'm stumped. I never installed any clutch safety switch in my 68 because I could never find it in the assembly manual. I've been back through sections 7 and 12 and I still can't find it. I found the jumper to eliminate the column neutral safety (used in the column shift automatic) on page 12-111 but can't find any reference to the clutch switch.
(sorry for the hijack)
edit:
I know someone just started to chime in...I know there was no backdrive lockout in 68, but was there a neutral safety requiring the clutch to be depressed????
Last edited by allyolds68; January 17th, 2014 at 05:17 PM.
#20
I have been considering changing my gear ratio more for highway cruising. Any recommendations. I currently have 3.55 gears. What is a good ratio to run with an M-20 4 speed?
#21
I have 3.42's and an M20 and I wouldn't go lower than 3.08's. I had 2.93's when I got the car and it bogged off the line. Personally I'd stay with the 3.55's
#22
3.55 is a nice gear, but the rpm is a little high on the hiway. I was thinking of a 3.08 gear, I wouldn't go any taller than 3.08. I've never driven a car with an M-20 so I don't know what the gear spacing is like and what works well with this trans. I am also running 27" tall tires currently.
#23
3.55 is a nice gear, but the rpm is a little high on the hiway. I was thinking of a 3.08 gear, I wouldn't go any taller than 3.08. I've never driven a car with an M-20 so I don't know what the gear spacing is like and what works well with this trans. I am also running 27" tall tires currently.
I'm running a 26.6" tall tire. Factory rears with an M20 were 3.08, 3.23, & 3.42. I'm sure the 3.08 will be the best option for what you're looking for
#25
Depends on your motor too. I had a Muncie with a 3.08 rear in my vette, but a big cam on a relatively low compression motor. It was a real dog off the line.
Btw, where did you order your hydraulic clutch from?
Btw, where did you order your hydraulic clutch from?
#28
3.73 was also installed with an M20 I had two of them in 2 different 442's(both m20's) but they were Chebby 12 bolts.
I concur, 3.08 is your best route with 26.6 tire.
Greg
#29
#30
2 more rookie questions. I ordered a "doorman" pilot bushing off fleabay are they any good quality wise? Other question, do I need to get new carpet for the 4 speed (I'm not using a console) Thanks
#32
#33
I am doing some mock up to see what parts I may still need. It turns out I need a 4 speed fly wheel, the one I had is Not the correct one. Where is the best place to get a quality 4 speed flywheel. Looking for quality and price. Thanks
#35
Here's a used marine flywheel. Resurface it and go. I wouldn't spend the extra money unless you want SFI and that will probably be more than $279 for a good one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oldsmobile-3...e74f57&vxp=mtr
Summit also has flywheels starting at about $330 including shipping.
Last edited by allyolds68; January 26th, 2014 at 04:56 PM.
#37
I am in the middle of the 4 speed swap and have a few questions on the clutch. I can do a hydraulic clutch or a factory mechanical linkage clutch. Is there enough room for either set up with the factory power brake booster? Or will I need to go with manual brakes (no booster)? Thanks
#38
I am in the middle of the 4 speed swap and have a few questions on the clutch. I can do a hydraulic clutch or a factory mechanical linkage clutch. Is there enough room for either set up with the factory power brake booster? Or will I need to go with manual brakes (no booster)? Thanks
#39
Fyi
True but in 1972 the ONLY Muncie available was the M-20. If your Cutlass had the W-29 & the W-30 options and a stick you got 3.42s as standard equipment with 3.73s optional.
That is how my 1972 "Cutlass" is optioned.