I have a '66 442 which I bought as a project a few years ago and it came without an engine or a transmission. Originally it was a 400 4bbl automatic trans car with a column shift so there's no hole in the floor for a shifter or any clutch linkage. I'm planning on installing a 455 with headers. I have a Muncie or a Richmond Gear 5 speed which I can put behind the 455. I think the Richmond Gear trans comes with a shifter; I have a correct rebuilt Hurst shifter for the Muncie. What I would like everyones opinion on is should I get the Parts Place reproduction mechanical clutch linkage kit or should I go hydraulic clutch linkage? I'll have to weld a tab on the frame to install the mechanical clutch kit. I've already aquired a flywheel, bellhousing, clutch pedal assembly and clutch.

 

I haven't found a hydraulic that doesn't leak, at least some. I've had the Howe and RAM that slide on the pin, and now have a McLeod bolt on. The bolt on makes for a slightly easier install, but it hangs up where the swivel fittings are. The fork and pin style are a pain to line up.

 

I had a howe that was a total piece of crap. They begrudgingly replaced it under warranty once with an updated version. I rebuilt the new version once and then got tired of punching myself in the ***** after it failed again.

I ordered the mcleod 10 years ago and it has been flawless every since. This is with over 10k miles and a hundred or so 11 second passes. I love the shorter pedal throw of the hydraulic clutch. The pedal effort is a little tougher but not terrible.

 

Hydraulic is the only way to go with headers.

 

Hydraulics have the potential of developing leaks; mechanical linkage will never leak! I've had 3 different sets of headers on my '67 442 and none have impacted the mechanical clutch linkage.

 

Same could be said for your brakes...

 

I'd like to thank everyone who contributed and if anyone else has an opinion let me know.

 

I tried the American Powertrain setup for two years before going back to mechanical. Some of it was my learning curve but in the end, the leaks that ruined my chassis paint job and the pain to adjust it because you have to pull the trans to adjust the bearing height made me go back. Plus I can feel what's going on the mechanical.

No doubt most people love them, but it wasn't for me.

 

When I converted my '69 cutlass from auto to manual, I first tried to go with a mechanical linkage, but ran into several issues with reproduction parts causing binding at the pedal and not being able to release the clutch fully. After a lot of adjustments, I was able to make it work but pedal effort was pretty bad. If you happen to find a factory complete mechanical linkage for your year or if you have a lot of knowledge and experience to make reproduction parts work incase they're out of spec, it might be worth pursuing.

Ultimately I went with under-dash malwood clutch pedal kit from american powertrain. Pedal with integrated master cylinder bolted right up, ran the hydraulic line and hose through the hole I made originally for the clutch pedal rod. Shimmed the hydraulic throwout bearing after some measurements, stabbed in my autogear muncie, bled the system and couldn't believe how smooth and much lighter the pedal effort was. Everything is still pretty new, under a thousand miles and no leaks so far. There is no adjustment to set pedal height as far as I know, so that can be seen as a downside to some.

Edit: After emailing Malwood USA regarding pedal adjustment, they quickly replied with directions and photo of a tab to bend to set pedal height at rest. Great company to deal with.

Good luck with your decision and journey.