BOP Th350 Tq Converter
BOP Th350 Tq Converter
The rebuilt motor got set in last weekend so this weekend I'm tackling the transmission. Before I slid everything under the car, I spun the TC onto the input shaft and rotated it until it went back and clicked in twice. After getting everything up and onto the dowels, I pulled the trans and motor together with 3 bolts and went to check the TC. Now I don't have any clearance between the TC and the flexplate. Its too tight to spin the TC at all. When I removed the transmission. I remember having about an 1/8th of inch or so of clearance between the two after removing the bolts. Am I missing something here?
It was getting dark so I loosened everything back up, slid the trans back about half an inch and checked to me sure my flexible weight faced towards the trans then called it a night.
Was I supposed to get 3 clicks while spinning? I'm pretty sure on the newer stuff like 4l60e's it was 3 so I decided to post here and check.
It was getting dark so I loosened everything back up, slid the trans back about half an inch and checked to me sure my flexible weight faced towards the trans then called it a night.
Was I supposed to get 3 clicks while spinning? I'm pretty sure on the newer stuff like 4l60e's it was 3 so I decided to post here and check.
The number of clicks isn’t important. The converter needs to be able to move with the bellhousing bolts tight. If not, you will be removing the transmission gain soon, and removing lots of money from your wallet shortly after that!!
The textbook spec is 1/8-3/16 space between the converter and flex plate with the bellhousing tight to the engine. Keep in mind the converter might not spin completely around, some flywheels have balance weights that might hit the converter mount tabs. As long as you have the proper clearance, the converter doesn’t have to spin all the way around.
If you pull the trans back out, try setting the converter up to the flywheel. Make sure the converter pilot will fully engage into the crank. You might need to polish the converter pilot, or clean out crud from the crank to get the converter to sit flush.
Is the transmission freshly rebuilt? If not, it’s possible the drive tabs on the transmission pump fees are worn out from the old converter. The new converter might be getting hung up on the TVs, keeping it from going into the transmission the last 1/8 inch or so. If you still have the old converter, look for wear at the drive slots
The textbook spec is 1/8-3/16 space between the converter and flex plate with the bellhousing tight to the engine. Keep in mind the converter might not spin completely around, some flywheels have balance weights that might hit the converter mount tabs. As long as you have the proper clearance, the converter doesn’t have to spin all the way around.
If you pull the trans back out, try setting the converter up to the flywheel. Make sure the converter pilot will fully engage into the crank. You might need to polish the converter pilot, or clean out crud from the crank to get the converter to sit flush.
Is the transmission freshly rebuilt? If not, it’s possible the drive tabs on the transmission pump fees are worn out from the old converter. The new converter might be getting hung up on the TVs, keeping it from going into the transmission the last 1/8 inch or so. If you still have the old converter, look for wear at the drive slots
Found it!
In case this helps anyone in the future..
Its 1 1/8" from bell housing to face of TC and you should hear 3 "clicks" according to the install guide from B&M. Anyone interested in reading it can find it here..
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...4R-zq_no-yQHn2
Its 1 1/8" from bell housing to face of TC and you should hear 3 "clicks" according to the install guide from B&M. Anyone interested in reading it can find it here..
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...4R-zq_no-yQHn2
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