njot33

Hi
Not sure this is the right place to post this... I know this list is usually for older stuff - but hopefully someone can help.

I'm working on a 90 Cutlass Ciera with the 2.5L 4 cylinder (Pontiac engine). I had to pull the motor to fix the timing gear and I'm now reinstalling it in the car.

I have everything lined up. The engine and trans will bolt together, though I have the bolts loose so I can adjust things. I have the engine sitting loosely but correctly on the motor mount on the assenger side and I have the upper motor mount installed. The torque converter spins freely and the nub on the torque converter is in the hole in the flywheel.

I don't know why but I can't get the bolt holes on the torque converter and flywheel to line up so that I can install the bolts.

There is a small access hole from below where I can get things lined up pretty closely, but then I have to rotate the torque converter and flywheel together slightly to where the starter is normally mounted to get the bolt installed.

Every time it is slightly off and I can't get it in there. There has to be some trick to doing this.

Has anyone worked on one of these, and if so, what can I try to get the bolts installed?

I'm underneath the car on my back so this is already pretty difficult to do as it is.

Thanks for your help in advance.

Sugar Bear

Are you using the same converter and flexplate as before?
Was the flexplate removed and possibly reinstalled with the opposite side toward the crank?
Will the trans bellhousing go up flush against the block by itself without pulling it up with bolts?
The bell is normally bolted tight and flush before moving the converter toward the flexplate to install converter bolts.

njot33

Thanks for the response.
Yes, same converter and flex plate.
I am sure the flex plate is correctly installed. I marked it before installation.
The bell housing will get pretty close to flush - but there isn't much clearance where the dowel pins are - I think you'd have to put the bolts on there to get it flush.
I can start all of the bolts, so I know the trans and engine are lined up correctly.

Your last sentence - really... ok... I can't do it that way. I have to have the engine and trans slightly loose in order to rotate the flex plate and torque converter easily.

Sugar Bear

The bell housing must go flush to the block first without bolts and then bolted to the block. Next the converter should be pulled forward to bolt it to the flex plate. The situation being described sounds like the converter isn't seated completely into the front pump of the transmission. The converter has to be rotated by hand and jump or move back toward the transmission twice. If the converter isn't fully seated into the pump, pulling it with bolts can damage the front pump of the transmission.

Unfortunately the only way to get the converter in place may be to pull the engine.

Good luck!!!

Sugar Bear

Removing material would be fine but it would need to be removed exactly on center to prevent wobble or interference.

What keeps the converter centered, the front pump of the trans? If it's the snout of the converter what is the allowable clearance between the hub and the crank?

Anyone???

Greg Rogers

I have done many engine swaps back in the day on those GM FWD's. Never had a problem. I would just keep trying. If I remember correctly I had always put eng/trans together and tight then do converter bolts thru starter hole- put one it almost tighten, then turn engine with crank bolt, 2nd one in, on and on. If I remember right I think they will only go together one way, you may get the 1st and 2nd bolt in and find the third wont fit, take then back out and rotate until all go in then tighten. I certainly wouldn't remove any material. You took it apart, it should go back together... Good luck.