cherokee coachworks

Ok here goes, I DID use the search function, still didn't find what I wanted, so here's a thread, I won't be upset if it's removed, but hopefully I'll get an answer...

I apparently have acquired exmoparlover's car, for the folks that aren't familiar with the latest threads i've posted, I have a 1963 olds 98 six window with the ultra-high compression motor and of course the slim jim. He was having some issues with it and posted some threads, but I don't feel like they were properly explained. The transmission is not shifting out of what i'll call LOW gear, I guess it is making it to second because I can get the car up to about 25 miles an hour, then it just kinda goes into floaty never never land where it is not pulling at all. The car will then have to slow down to 10 miles an hour or less before it will kick back into gear again. Let me say this again, it shifts out of LOW gear, but into nothing no matter where the shift lever is at, whether it's in L S or D.

The previous owner (exmoparlover) took the valve cover off of the car and cleaned it out, I'm not sure if he replaced the filter (does it have one?), but he cleaned the valve body and It's still doing the same thing. I was told by several transmission guys to check the governor on the output shaft, you have to take off the tailsection and the valve body to get to it according to the manual I downloaded. Now on most transmissions if you can turn the governor by hand then it's bad, what about this one? If anyone has any constructive advice i'd love to hear it. I don't want to hurt the collector value of this car as it will not be my daily driver (sorry i'm a '59 bel-air man).

also get ready for a post about my 4 jet carb....

Olds64

You need to make sure the throttle valve adjustment is done correctly. You should have a manual with detailed instructions on performing this adjustment. If it is misadjusted your Slim Jim won't shift properly and will provide poor performance.

The throttle valve linkage could also cause trouble with your throttle if it is sticking.

d2_willys

Make sure the throttle valve linkage is adjusted correctly, as was pointed out. This is critical. If no go then start by checking if there is a governor port to check governor pressure. If so, then you will need an oil pressure gauge capable of up to 200psi. (I usually use a standard mechanical oil pressure gauge just to see if it changes when it should) So look in your manual and see if there is a governor port and start there after verifying TV linkage.

If you don't have the port then you will probably have to remove the tail housing and check the governor that way. If the governor is looking ok, then it probably is the clutch used to shift from second to third, usually a rear clutch pak. Again check the manual for possible causes for no 2-3 shift.

My guess it is the clutch, since the transmission goes back to 2 at a low speed, and this is usually determined by the governor and TV pressures.

cherokee coachworks

thanks *****'s I'll check that out, would the linkage cause it to shift into nothing like that? I have no experience with this particular transmission, but on my others if my kickdown cable came loose, or the throttle linkage then the transmission would still hold it's gears, but it would not shift properly. That would be awesome if I could turn some screws and make it work, but i'm doubtful...

Olds64 I appreciate you not telling me to throw it away ;-) If this car were a keeper, boy it would already be gone, as well as my quirky 4 jet carburetor, and I would be ripping up and down the road like a madman, but i'm trying to get this one sold, so I don't want to hurt the collector value of it.

Olds64

You might end up putting more into it to get it to run properly than you can make selling it. But, I understand where you are at. Hopfully it is just the TV adjustment.

cherokee coachworks

well hopefully since i'm doing it all myself I won't have too terribly much into it. I traded work welding in floor pans for the car itself, so i've only got about 400 dollars and some labor in it. I found a supposedly running slim jim transmission that was removed from a car years ago for just under 400 dollars, but my question is if it was running good, why was it removed from the car 30 years ago? seems like it's probably got some issues... but anyhow, I found rebuild kits for just under 400 dollars as well, so my friend is very knowledgable about transmissions in general, so I figure between the two of us, you guys ;-) , and the manual I downloaded we may get something figured out on it.

I'm hoping it's just the governor, i've heard that from several different sources, so after we fiddle with the linkage some that will be next, as it can be serviced in the car.

If that isn't it, then i'll just order the whole rebuild kit. I've got some folks coming to possibly buy my old subaru brat tomorrow, if they do then I'll have a little money to put towards the transmission in this thing.

olds64... I'll tell you this, next car I start i'm going to give a full gut job to. Probably the first one of those '59 pontiacs, it'll be cliche' 350/350 all the way. buy my parts cheap from the local guys and get better performance. You can make one of those really pretty and shiny with parts from jegs and just be better off all around. I'll definitely send you some pics of what's happening with the next one. I would have done that to my '50 chevy but the heater core is in a big box under the hood, and even though it's not a huge deal to install a newer one, I didn't want the extra hassle of moving it as well.

Olds64

Make sure you check the transmission pressures before you order a rebuild kit. It would be a moot point to rebuild the transmission and put clutches and steels in it if you have a leaking or bad hard part.

d2_willys

cherokee: The first order of business is to have a shop manual that accurately shows adjustments and ports for diagnosing problems. Like I said, get the TV rod adjusted correctly first. Then if still no shift then try and find governor or rear clutch pressure ports available. I would be looking at those ports first to see if there is anything happening at those ports (with oil pressure gauge) with rear wheels off the ground and the car in DR and accelerating till the shift should occur. This will point you in the right direction.

If no ports available then you will simply have to go one by one, starting with governor (but I don't think that is the problem). If ok then the clutch that is applied for 3rd and 4th gear is likely not being applied or is worn out. The TV valve will control shift points, but will not cause freewheeling at 2-3 shift speeds. More likely clutch issue. I will try and check this out tonight and post back.

A friend of mine years ago had a dual coupling hydramatic (predecessor of roto hydro) that did the same thing. It freewheeled when it was suppose to shift. Pretty sure it was rear clutch problem.

cherokee coachworks

thanks guys, I pulled it today, tried the TV no help... we're going to tear into it within the next couple of days. I have the saginaw 3 speed out of my chevy as well and just got the correct kit for it, so i'm going to rebuild it first, then start pulling the roto apart. hopefully it will be something easy... if not then to H with it, I'll put a 700r4 in there.

Olds64

It is very unwise to rebuild a transmission without first having pressure readings. You might be throwing money into a pit. Hopefully, not. Good luck.

cherokee coachworks

well, I pulled apart my slim jim, got it into pieces and everything looked pretty good in there, replaced the O-rings on the valve body and put it all back together. it hit 3rd gear for the first time really solidly, then... I ran out of gas. hahaha I put some more gas in it and fired her off, right back to normal, no 3rd gear... So i'm looking at trading for a 700r4 to go in it... I'm hearing your cheers now. I figured that I can make anything that I need to adapt it, aside from the main kit anyhow. I'll try to keep it as factory as possible and just leave the slim jim in the trunk for whomever buys it. if they want to gripe about it not being original, they've got the old transmission right there to put back in it. after it worked and then quit I figured that slim jim can go right to hell ;-)

Olds64

I believe you will have to modify the drive shaft tunnel in your car to accomodate the 700R4. You might consider a 200 4R or TH 350. Perhaps a different transmission would fit better.

cherokee coachworks

well, it also had a little rust on one of the very first gears I came to. I was mainly looking for an obivously burnt up disc or something like that. I thought that I had read on here that the 700r4 is the best fitment for this car, but I guess not huh? I figure it would be best to just replace it because even when functioning normally, i hear that they seem broken. I imagine it would be hard to convince someone that it is fine when it seems like it's slipping and grabbing. I'm just trying to sell this car, and i figure if it will go faster than 25 mph I would have a better chance, no one seems to want it for any price at all, and i won't go lower than 1200 dollars on it, the glass would be nearly worth that. hhmmmpfff I'm glad I haven't traded for the 700r4 then. well, maybe when i get my lift in at the end of the month i'll put it up in the air and pull the old one apart again, after being inside it i'm not nearly as intimidated as I was before. And it seems like there isn't alot that can go wrong with the governor on this critter. am I right about that?

d2_willys

I take it you had the valve body cleaned while out of the transmission. If so and the transmission shifted up to 3rd, then you may have a sticky valve in the valve body. Another way of checking the transmission is to apply air pressure (with valve body out) to the apply ports of the various clutches and see if they actuate. I know this might be hard to do while in the car, but it might be worth doing before going to plan B.