My 64 starfire has its original hydromatic in it. It seems like it does pretty good, however I discovered a little problem yesterday. I had a very eventful Saturday, and got to drive this beauty around all day. I even took her on her longest trip so far. Approx. 150 miles round trip. However. After a longer trip the trans doesn't want to go into reverse. Instead it just goes into drive. This morning, after she set overnight reverse worked again. I'll add this detail that when reverse locks in, it can do it rather hard. Like bam! Reverse. The service Manuel says that forward drive in R position could be a result of the manual linkage or neutral clutch. Are these easy fixes?

 

If it is a linkage problem, the solution is adjustment. However, these linkages are very, very, touchy?

 

been looking at the service manuel, is this a job done from inside the car or from underneath?

 

Never had to do it, but do not believe it is done from inside he car. Thought it had to be done from under the hood at the carb linkage?

One is talking TV Rod. Here is msg thread on this -

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-question.html

Scroll down and you will see pics of the linkage.

If you are not familiar with this procedure, I would not recommend taking on the task, but rather calling in someone who know what to do and how to do it.

Here is another link to a thread that discusses the subject -

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/54478-s...justment-help/

And, lastly, what Google has to say on this subject -

www.google.com/search?q=oldsmobile+tv+rod&oq=oldsmobile+tv+rod&aq s=chrome..69i57.9584j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

Have you tried changing the trans fluid and filter ?
Dexron III/Mercon is the fluid to use .
Filters are available on E-Bay , or from Fatsco transmission .

 

I have not changed it. I feel like it could be related to fluid because it only does it after driving a good piece and getting it nice and warm. Would you say that should be the first step? Then see about that linkage.?

 

These cars have a reverse blocker piston that physically prevents the linkage shifting to R if vehicle is moving forward more than about 5 mph. Hydraulic pressure forces it out the side of the trans at the trans selector lever. It may be sticking out when it shouldn't. Try some penetrating oil and make sure it isn't seized in its bore. Past that you're looking at transmission internal repair.

Shifter linkage is accessed from undercar. it goes from shifter to trans shift lever on the trans. Don't make this job more complicated than it needs to be.

 

Absolutely , yes .

 

where is the filter located? Looking through service Manuel, I might be missing something.

 

ok I'm seeing it. They call it the trans. Oil cleaner. Looks like I disconnect filler hose and drain, remove oil pan, then I should see the cleaner. Still trying to find one for sale.

 

This?

 

That's it - I think Fatsco is the only game in town.

 

looks like Fusick has one a little more expensive

 

I've got the filter as well as a new pan gasket. I'm thinking remove the pan and the filter should be right there. Is there anything I should keep in mind? What is the best way to drain the fluid? My plan was to jack up the car as if I were going to do an oil change. Drain the trans fluid, remove the trans oil pan, keeping track of where certain washers may go, then there should be one screw holding the filter? Install new filter. Should I soak it in trans fluid or anything like that first? Then new gasket and pan. Re attach the filler pipe to the pan. I guess that is where you drain it as well. Am I leaving out anything? Also someone mentioned lubricant for the reverse piston, I'm thinking it couldn't hurt. Is that something I can do from under, without taking anything else apart? Thanks so much. Got some rainy days ahead so it'll be garaged for the weekend. Will be a good time to work on her some.

 

one more thing, a friend said after I do all this I should go get the trans flushed.

 

You have it regarding oil and filter change, removing the filler pipe makes the drain pretty easy. One bolt on a bracket holding the filter, be sure the old pipe gasket comes off with the filter. Clean the pan thoroughly and pay attention to how much metal debris you find. You don't need to soak the filter before installing because you will do that when you fill it up. When I took my filter off I saw that someone had sawed off part of the housing with a hacksaw, probably to bypass a plugged filter - wtf? Others will have to help on the reverse valve...

 

The reverse valve is lubricated by transmission fluid.
Draining and filling with fresh fluid MAY free it up .
If it doesn't , then the transmission may have to be dis-assembled .

Your friend is way off . When you change the fluid , you are flushing the trans.

 

don't you love those friends that "know"
most of the time she goes into reverse. Sometimes after driving a minute I'll go to shift into reverse, and it will want to go forward. I'll put it in N or P then back to R and it works. The shifter feels a bit sloppy but I don't have anything to compare it to.

 

there has been one incident where after driving at 50 to 60 mph through some good east KY hills and making a really short stop, she wouldn't go in reverse so I had to do some creative driving through some grass.

 

Transmission flushing is popular at oil-change shops and dealers as a way for them to make a lot of profit. With an old tranny sometimes the dirt is holding it together so flushing pushes it over the edge!


Another tip - if your shifter feels sloppy tighten the small allen screw at the base of the "T" handle. Mine refused to go into gear one time and that fixed it, I now tighten that screw regularly.

 

progress..... I got it all took apart and ready to put back together. Only thing happened was one of the oil pan bolts broke leaving part of it behind, but it is sticking out a little. The rest of the bolts weren't very tight at all, in going to see about getting the broken one out, but to have one broke out of so many, would that hurt it, if I couldn't get it out??

 

Agreed on reverse blocker, if it does have one. It probably does, as the R position is adjacent to L position. Check your manual for location, then clean and reassemble.

 

I would think a broken pan bolt would lead to leakage? You say what remains is sticking out a little. Enough to get a vise grip on it? If yes, repeatedly treat with PB (Power Blaster), use heat if necessary, and if worse comes to worse, get it out by drilling.