64 Jetaway to a 200R4

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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 08:39 AM
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64 Jetaway to a 200R4

Thanks Joe for your input on my other thread in the brake section. Here is whats going on with the conversion from a Jetaway to a 200R4 on a my 64 "Rust-bucket" post car. The 64-65 F-85 frame rails ( ledges ) that are stamped out to accommodate the cross member are not near as long as the 67 that had the TH400 option. So if you move the cross member back and bolt the two bolts holding the trans to the cross member, the cross member is no longer sitting on the flat stamped out portion of the frame rail ( ledge). In addition where the cross member now rests the frame rail is at an angle not flat like the stamped out part. I also believe the stamped out is more solid like a perch. Here are a few pictures. I have some ideas that I have but need more ideas from you guys.There a few aftermarket sources G-Force $260, and CK Performance $200 that have them for A-Body cars but I can promise you for 64-65 they would require modification. The CK Performance one does not have the holes punched out for the parking brake cables either.
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 11:09 AM
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Forget all that, I'd just flatten that xmember crown a little, find the angle, hop on the grinder, and make a couple spacers like this.

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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by J-(Chicago)
Forget all that, I'd just flatten that xmember crown a little, find the angle, hop on the grinder, and make a couple spacers like this.

That was what I was going to suggest next!! LOL, J- I like the way you think!!
Old Sep 16, 2011 | 08:18 PM
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Thats a good idea. Did you look at the pictures? Don't you think drilling the bolt holes for the new postion in the frame is a little close to the edge? My original post is under "major projects" for info on my project. Factor in a 425 500HP 530lbs. torque motor, Hotchkis/Moser suspension and rear that will see some auto cross racing and the 1320 with the Vintage A/C on. This isn't your fathers Olds build. Not knocking your ideas, fact I may start working in that direction of what you suugested. Keep the ideas coming in. This may go down as a standard for this type of conversion on a 64-65 A-Body Olds and others.
Old Sep 17, 2011 | 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by therobski
Thats a good idea. Did you look at the pictures? Don't you think drilling the bolt holes for the new postion in the frame is a little close to the edge? My original post is under "major projects" for info on my project. Factor in a 425 500HP 530lbs. torque motor, Hotchkis/Moser suspension and rear that will see some auto cross racing and the 1320 with the Vintage A/C on. This isn't your fathers Olds build. Not knocking your ideas, fact I may start working in that direction of what you suugested. Keep the ideas coming in. This may go down as a standard for this type of conversion on a 64-65 A-Body Olds and others.
You can also weld/or bolt a plate under the frame and gusset it for strength. Then build it up with blocks to get your height correct!! Btw, most of your torque is on the motor mounts.
Old Sep 17, 2011 | 04:52 PM
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I have some ideas on long your lines. I will get started on the fabrication mock up and up date when I can.
Old Oct 4, 2011 | 01:49 PM
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Here is what I have done, not convinced this is the best yet. Notice I shimmed the bolts to where that sit on the angle part of the frame rail. I mean if you drilled through the frame and bolted it all together you would be forcing the frame rail to bend up straight flat against the cross member. Is that a good thing to do? I also don't think there is a lot of torque on the trans mount. The one larger fastener is all I had at the time the pictures were taken.
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by therobski
Here is what I have done, not convinced this is the best yet. Notice I shimmed the bolts to where that sit on the angle part of the frame rail. I mean if you drilled through the frame and bolted it all together you would be forcing the frame rail to bend up straight flat against the cross member. Is that a good thing to do? I also don't think there is a lot of torque on the trans mount. The one larger fastener is all I had at the time the pictures were taken.
The shim will work fine. This is not a critical alignment or positioning problem.
Old Oct 6, 2011 | 12:44 PM
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Here are the pictures of the fabbed brackets.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 02:05 PM
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Looks good!! Very nice install!! I found that I did not have to purchase new e-brake cables on my T400 install, I used a 1" long hook bolted into the existing hole for the cable and adjusted my e-brake to take up the slack!
Old Nov 22, 2011 | 06:44 AM
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Guys I don't like my crossmember setup after the engine and trans is in. Those brackets have flex in them. Don't use this as an option on a 64-65 200R4 conversion. I have better idea from Pro-Touring.com and will post the results. Back to the drawing board.
Old Nov 22, 2011 | 07:27 AM
  #12  
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I originally thought you tied the back of the brackets to the frame, but after looking at your picks again I can see what your talking about with the flex!! What not attach the rear of those brackets with a gusset to the car frame??
Old Dec 13, 2011 | 04:53 PM
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found the solution

I may have found a solution, to properly mounting the crossmember on a 200R4 conversion on a 64-65 A-body on the inexpensive side. I bought 8 "beveled washers" from Fastenal. 2-per bolt hole will raise the crossmember just about even where it needs to be for proper pinion angle over the original. The beveled washers mounted are about at a 10 degree and make the crossmember surface flat and will not bend the frame upward when tightening the bolts. I will make some templates and drill the frame holes out mount mount the crossmember and shoot you guys some pictures. Theres more little detail I will enclose if all works. No Biggie
Old Dec 18, 2011 | 04:29 PM
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Yes indeed the cross member is installed. After final measurement 2 beveled washers per bolt hole was to much so I took it all apart and with one of these little guys per bolt I believe I have retained the proper cross member height and pinion angle. In addition I also made to 3/16th plate gussets for added strength.IMG_1232.jpg
IMG_1234.jpg
IMG_1233.jpg
Old Dec 19, 2011 | 04:49 AM
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hey rob, where did you get your tranny? i'm going to do a 2004r for my '70 this winter and have been nosing around on the net... Jakes in the dallas area reads like a good outfit, i'm still up in the air about doing it myself. was thinking about buying the kit & upgraded hard parts from jakes...

Any thoughts?
Old Dec 19, 2011 | 06:24 AM
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BigD I use Jack Laswell here in the DFW area for everything I can't or don't have time to do. Plus I can call him for advise ( do alot of). He is a Master Technician, extreme quality minded and talented; has his own shop for many years now and building a new facility. Jack has a great following especially with the Buick clan. He gets commissioned from building a race trans to a nut and bolt concurs restoration-is just finishing a 70 Grand Sport Stage One convertible for a customer that going to take it to the Buick Nationals for judging. Sometimes he gets his customers Grandmas and Grandpas cars in for repair which I believe he only charges them for the parts unless it's major. Just a way to give back to the community. He can be reached at 972-412-9000.
Old Dec 19, 2011 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by bigD
hey rob, where did you get your tranny? i'm going to do a 2004r for my '70 this winter and have been nosing around on the net... Jakes in the dallas area reads like a good outfit, i'm still up in the air about doing it myself. was thinking about buying the kit & upgraded hard parts from jakes...

Any thoughts?
I know this was directed at rob, but here is another build option, Brian Hofer. He is here in Michgan and well known throughout the Turbo Buick community for his reliable 2004r builds in both street and strip strength. Apparently he has great customer service too. I was going to use him until I decided to go 4l80e.

586-306-9996

You can see what I found on him here

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/ven...r-trannys.html
Old Dec 19, 2011 | 02:27 PM
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thanks guys!!
Old Jan 3, 2012 | 04:52 PM
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200R4 cooler lines

Does anybody make pre-bent 200R4 cooler lines for the 64-65 radiator position?
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 06:04 PM
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Th 400 "pre bent" lines should work. You will just have to mount them a little farther apart than the TH400 position at the transmission itself. INLINE TUBE makes the ones for a TH400. I personnally don't know of anyone making the ones for a 2004r yet.
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