So a few have told me to do this swap in my 72. I think I will, but I still have a few questions. Everyone is talking about a higher stall converter, when I look them up there's dozens of different stalls to pick from and I only want to do this once. This will be a street car and probably never see a track. I just want something fun that I can take road trips in. so which converter should I get? Second question is I've read about people wiring in a toggle for the lockup, some don't, what are the options for the lockup? Third is there any modifications needed for the trans cooler lines? and is the factory cooler for the TH350 insufficient for the 200?

 

Determining stall speed is based on several things, such as what camshaft is in your engine, and what rear gears does the car have?
Ever since the early 80s my car has had a 2000 RPM or higher converter and I would not use anything less than that with a factory stock engine.

 

so comp told me to run the 206/212 cam, if I can find one in stock that's equivalent to this than I'll run that cam. I was thinking 3.73's would be the best of both worlds for my application.

 

Just my opinion, but there is no good reason to eliminate the lockup on a street car. There are dozens of ways to control it, from almost free to a few hundred bucks. The EASIEST/CHEAPEST way is to just put it on a toggle switch. Bow tie overdrive sells a pretty slick controller. Once the transmission shifts to overdrive, it automatically locks the converter after 8 seconds. Hit the brakes, it automatically unlocks, then locks again in a few seconds later. It’s about as close to a factory setup as you can get without a computer to control it.

Get a factory remanufactured converter for a Grabd National or 442. Those are the factory high stall converters, and will still drive like factory. The grand national converter will go to 2800 with sticky tires and a good tune, and still drive like grandma’s Cadillac.

Put a transmission cooler on it, just to be safe.

 

It's easy enough to wire the convertor lock-up to a 4th gear pressure switch so it will automatically lock-up in 4th gear (OD). For better OD manners, send the 12v to the transmission feed through a brake pedal switch and a vacuum switch; the brake switch will unlock the convertor anytime you step on the brakes, the vacuum switch is adjustable and will unlock the convertor when the engine vacuum is low, like under full throttle for passing, and will re-engage the convertor clutch as the vacuum increases when you let up on the throttle.
Here's a pic of the vacuum switch that I used on my car, a pdf of the wiring diagram is attached as well:

Rodney


Superior K058 Vacuum Switch

 

I ran a switch pitch Turbo 400 in my 70 442 controlled by a separate bright light switch. I loved that set-up. 200 R-4 I have never heard anything bad about that set-up.

 

THIS^^. Except in order to wire the brake light switch, you will need a relay to "invert" the logic. The TC requires +12V to lock-up. If you wire the brake-light circuit as your +12V source, it will lock only when you step on the brake (not the desired behavior). Instead, wire a relay coil to the brake lights so that it energizes the coil when you step on the brakes, and use the COM and NC contacts to wire the relay between a true +12V source (that is on when running, like IGN) and the lock-up converter input to the 200-4R. If you use the vacuum switch (a great idea), wire that in series between this relay and the transmission input lead. Your trans should be built with an internal pressure switch that closes only in 4th gear. So the combination of <no brake> + <high vac> + <4th gear> = locked TC.

 

I'm going to start ordering parts for this swap, will the TH350 dip stick work or will I need the 200-4r dip stick? I have a friend with an 80's cutlass with a 307, he's going to check today to see if its a 200-4r trans. if so he's going to sell it to me cheap. Also I was reading about how not all 200-4r's came with the port on pass side for the lockup switch, is this true?

 

Use your TH350 dipstick and converter cover. The cover may not fit dead nuts but will work acceptably.

Street application, go with lock up capability. There are a few different ways to have a nicely integrated lockup circuit OR you can shoestring it but know that it will not be an elegant solution. I have not seen or heard of cases not containing an OD pressure port, assuming that is what you referenced.

Make sure you have someone that is intimately familiar with this animal unless you are rebuilding a stock, factory HP trans and even then, put good parts and a CK or similar shift kit in it. This is assuming a moderate horsepower/torque engine. Anything approaching 400 horse or particularly 400 ft/lbs, overbuild it to be bulletproof or you might find that it isn’t. If higher power build, choose your builder vewy, vewy carefuwy, search here and probably turbobuick.com for leads, at least partially by location.

Realize that 400 ft/lbs figure is DOUBLE what the 200-4R was designed for. I hurt a few at or below that figure during my learning curve and went full billet as a result when running stronger engines. I just sold the blue car to someone I know and that 200 has lived for 15 years behind 530+ ft/lbs.

​​​​​​….

 

The 2004R durability is directly related to the vehicle it’s in, and how the power is generated.

About 20 years ago I built a 2004R for my car in anticipation of my first Power Tour. It had the typical poor man’s upgrades (band, servo, valve body, etc) and installed it with a aftermarket converter that came out a friends Grand National.

The test drive went pretty well. Drove about 50 hard miles, my thinking was if it lived beating on it like it owes me money, it will live driving it sensibly. 🙄

I was coasting up to a red light about 4 miles from the house when I felt the car “relax”. I blipped the throttle, nothing. Came up to the light, no reverse either. 😡

Got the car home and tore back into it. Found the dreaded forward clutch shaft snapped off. I put the400 back in it, said scree it and took the 87 442 instead. I’m glad I did, it’s HOT and humid in Louisiana!

Now, what I find interesting is my buddies Grand National (the one I got the converter from) ran basically the same times at track, and in fact went much faster eventually, and never broke anything. If I remember correctly, he got that car to run 11:60s. At the time I broke the trans they were running 12:20s.

I really think the instantaneous torque of the big block was easier on the trans than the engine building boost.

Later I repaired the trans and used it in my 87 Cutlass.

Kinda off the subject, but thought I would share.

 

He has a low compression 350, with something like the Transgo shift kit, if in good shape, it should do just fine. An auxiliary cooler isn't a bad idea. The 2004R uses cooler lines at a different angle, it can be bitch to bend the factory steel lines and not break them. I used new Nickle Copper lines, much easier to bend. I used the adjustable vacuum switch controller for the lock up from TCI. I have used a couple of lock up aftermarket converters, 2000 to 2600 and 2200 to 2500 rpm. Both flash stalled in the middle of the rpm range. As I said, a factory D9 flashes around 1900 rpm. The 3.73 will help launch a lot. This calculator is bang on with the 2004R for rpm.
http://tech.oldsgmail.com/ch_axle.php

 

Thanks for the info guys, I just talked to a local trans shop that specializes in classic cars/ hot rods. He said he can rebuild and modify the factory converter and he would have to play around with the governor to get it right. he wants around 1800 for full build. I just have to find a core. I've looked at some online, but they want 2800-3800 for a trans without a core. I hope I can find a core and get this process going. I really want this done around fall.

 

Sounds like a good deal for a trans build. The low performance governors shift either 3000 or 4000 rpm unmodified. It is fairly easy to modify the small weight for 5000 rpm full throttle shifts, it is just trial and error.

 

ok Serious question, is the 220-4r the only 80's trans that has a universal bolt pattern? I'm looking up trans cores in different ways and a guy has a "th350" from a monte that has a universal bellhousing. also whats the easiest way to confirm in a picture its a true 200 and not another trans?

 

At some point there were TH350s made with a universal bolt pattern. That simply means it will bolt up to either a Chevy or a BOP (Buick, Olds Pontiac - and Cadillac) without needing an adapter.

 

The 2004R has a one piece case, no removable extension housing. Keep in mind the th200 also has a one piece case.

Easiest way to identify the trans in question is to look at the pan.

 

Exactly, a long 16 bolt pan with dual sump pan with metric on the pan. The TH200 is skinny trans with a pan similar to a TH350 but says metric on the pan.

 

Thanks guys, I'm going to look at this trans sometime this week. I looked up a deep pan and good lord are they expensive. May have to do that later. Lol

 

I'd like to add 2 things. I have a 700r4 in my car. Search the net for "Hot Rod Mag 700r4 wiring" and it shows a wiring method that worked well for me and it will work for a 2004r. If your car doesn't have cruise control you can use a cruise control brake light switch to turn lockup off when brakes are pressed if you run the wiring thru the cruise circuit on the switch. That's how mine is currently wired. I did not like the way the trans felt when it shifted into 4th and locked the converter at the same time. I thought that it made the shift feel like it slid into gear. I installed a 10 second delay relay I found on Amazon so the trans shifts into 4th then 10 seconds later it locks the converter, much crisper.