This is a very specific installation that isn't shown very well in the ASM. Cars with A/C have a vertical mount multilplexer with side brackets that seems to be mounted behind the glove box, but there is no drawing of the 9-pin connector that mates with the radio shown, though I expect it would travel above the ash tray and would be about 14" long. Cars without A/C are shown to have a multiplexer with top/bottom mount brackets that attach to the center ventilation duct, and a note saying this should be attached prior to assembly. This mounting is also 180 degrees different from the AC cars and the short (6"?) 9-pin cable comes from the bottom to attach to the radio. Does anyone happen to have a picture of an A/C car setup? I'm assuming the brackets are asymmetrical, as the firewall has a dip where the suggested mount hole is. Mostly I'd like to see the length of the 9-pin cable. I just found a stereo radio for the car and would like to use it, but I have a non-A/C multiplexer, and there is no room behind the ash tray on the duct work to mount it. if anyone would know where I could find a 9-pin extension cable, that would be invaluable. Thanks for any help or suggestions on how to mount this!


Mounting for AC cars - note no cable connection shown. It would exit from the top of the multiplexer. This is showing mounting behind the glove box.




Mounting for cars without AC. This is a 180 mount from the above, with the (short) cable coming from the bottom to connect to the radio. This would be behind the ash tray. It seems that AC vs non-AC has a different center duct.




This is the 9-pin connector end. If I could find a 14”-16” extension, I could mount the existing multiplexer almost anywhere.

 

If push comes to shove, and you probably thought of this, but you could cut the existing cable and splice in whatever length you need. Cut the individual conductors at different locations so that your splices would have different, non-bulky locations along the length of the entire cable. It would take a little time, but wouldn't be super difficult.

 

That's a really good suggestion and would also solve the issue of the cable wrap being hard as a rock lol. I'm not sure why I didn't think of that after cutting and splicing the entire steering column ribbon lol. Mounting the thing I guess is the only other issue. There aren't any measurements given in the diagrams, and I *think* I can see the indents in the old insulation where a screw would go as per the ASM drawings above. Fabbing up the brackets would be a small challenge.

 

My first (daily driver) Toro had power windows, and after many driver door opening and closings over the years, the wires in the conduit between the hinges started to give out, and I had less and less use of the windows from the driver's control panel One wire at a time, I cut out the problem sections and spliced in a length of high-flex test prod wire. I don't know if heat shrink tubing existed at the time, but I obviously insulated the splices and then taped everything up. I might have actually disconnected the harness at one end or the other to make the process easier, plus how else would I have been able to get everything back in the sleeve between the door and the body, Or, maybe I slit the sleeve to do the work and then taped it up when I was done. You're lucky that the cable is totally out there to do whatever work that needs to be done.

 

My manual shows the following multiplexer schematics:

 

I would guess the cable connections on all of them would be the same, since each is part of the piece that creates the stereo sound. I think the bottom line question would be am I creating an issue by extending these wires 18” - like creating some added resistance or anything like that? I know from chatting with radio repair guys over the years that there is some “tuning” to be done with these components, but I have no idea what that entails.