The radiator in my '84 Toro just took a dump.

Is changing it truly as easy as it looks?

 

Well the hard part is not twisting the trans cooler lines and or oil lines if a radiator oil cooler is used as well. Spray the nuts good and use a flare nut wrench on them. some heat may be required....the nuts rust to the tubing and then everytrhing turns to s....

 

Drain it first.
Next the fan shroud has to come off.
Disconnect radiator hoses top and bottom.
Then remove the transmission lines
Next is remove top plate or brackets that holds radiator in place.
Remove radiator.

Then reverse the process.

When refilling coolant you will need to get the air out of the coolant system. Let the car warm with radiator cap off, add coolant as needed. You will see tiny air bubbles in the coolant as the coolant is circulating. Once you don't see them any more then put the cap back on the radiator. You will be ready for a drive.

Make sure to put new coolant in your overflow tank and check your level after your drive.

 

I don't see much rust, thank goodness.

No oil cooler, and I may go to an external cooler for the trans if I can afford it. Otherwise I guess I try Really stinking hard not to kink the lines....

The lower rad support is Swiss cheese though. looks like I have some welding to do while the rad is out.....

 

X2 - this will be the hardest part (maybe)... Spray the nuts with penetrating oil a day or two a few times before the job and use the line wrench - not a regular wrench.

Time for a good block flush while it is apart and change all coolant hoses if more than 5 years old.
No rust is good - sounds like the previous owners kept it full of fresh coolant.

 

No rust in the cooling system, but the radiator tubes themselves have lots corrosion. Fluffy stuff....

I knew I was going to changing the radiator, I just was hoping it wasn't going to be for this reason or this soon.

Lines are sprayed, just waiting on my local parts monger to get back to me on price and availability...

I do need to change the heater hoses as they are quite old.....(these will get done too...)

 

Where is it leaking at? Some areas can easily repaired by a radiator shop, like around the hose bungs. Might not hurt to take it somewhere and see what they say.
Just an option before spending some big bucks...

 

The upper seam at the tank is leaking. An easy fix for a radiator shop for sure.

Unfortunately, the tubes inside aren't so pretty, unlike the exterior....

Lots of corrosion in there, which explains why it's been running a little warmer (about 15 degrees or so) lately....

Given the extend (by looking in from the cap) the radiator isn't worth salvaging. I don't have a rad shop close by either. If I did, I would definitely be taking it there.

I found one for around 130 bucks, it's aluminum core and plastic tanks versus the copper unit I have now, but it'll do the job.....

 

It's all on it's way. Rad, hoses, and cap.....


I keep a large collection of clamps on hand....

 

Stainless steel, I'm sure...

I learned the hard way cheap clamps are not SS, just plated steel that will rust away if a slow leak develops.
I have to buy some good ones now, so I will take a magnet with me to test em before purchase.

 

Yep. I too learned that regular steel clamps suck. I need to go replace the spring clamp on the upper hose of the Wifes Accord....

Did I ever mention how much I hate Spring style hose clamps?

 

The tabs like to break off, I know that.
They suk...

 

As far as I am concerned. Spring style hose clamps are a ONE TIME USE ONLY thing.

I've had them fail at the worst possibletime....

Parts are on the way for the Toronado. Should be here by Friday.

 

One thing I do with rad coolant when making a 50/50 solution is to use distilled water (it's cheap at the drug store) or I save the water from the de-humidifier...this prevents scale build-up in the system... I had stainless clamps on an under ground water system and after ten or so years I had a leak in the line...turned out that the clamps were fine but the bolt in the clamp was plain steel and rusted away...

 

Sounds like the 20 year old clamps on my Ford that I am replacing...

 

Everything is coated liberally with Penetrating oil. I will re-coat each day until replacement. Which judging by the UPS statements won't be until Monday.

 

Article posted as it's own thread.