When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just wanted to double check something. I have been working on my '66 Toronado's power steering system and I have to replace the fluid in the system. The cap on the pump says to use "Type A" ATF. Obviously, this stuff isn't available anymore.
So I checked the CSM and it says "use GM power steering fluid pn 1050017. If this fluid isn't available, use ATF Type A (AQ-ATF......A)". I also checked the owners manual where it repeated the same recommendation. I did do a search on here and the results didn't really apply to the Toronado. It seems that Dexron is listed as an alternate in some owners manuals, but it doesn't in the Toro manuals even though it suggests the same GM 1050017 PN.
So......ATF Type A has since been replaced by Dexron III/Mercon so am I good to just throw that stuff in?
Last edited by ourkid2000; Sep 20, 2024 at 09:47 AM.
I think your question was answered recently in a thread. ATF Type A was the proper ATF for GM in 1966. Dexron III is backwards compatible for Type A ATF. DON'T use Type F !
I think your question was answered recently in a thread. ATF Type A was the proper ATF for GM in 1966. Dexron III is backwards compatible for Type A ATF. DON'T use Type F !
I recommend the Delco PWS fluid. Mike Sitzes new owner of PowerSteering.com or <marty@powersteering.com> (417-374-7627) specifically calls it out. He or his wife will answer the phone if you want to run the ATF question by him.
I had him rebuild both the 442 & Vettes PS systems.
GM #19329448, aka Delco 10-5073 or equivalent thereof (32 oz)
GM #12345866 (16 oz)
GM #12345867 (32 oz)
Last edited by droldsmorland; Sep 20, 2024 at 10:31 AM.
Good grief folks, had a power steering fluid explosion! I topped off the reservoir and it pulled in a bunch of fluid when I started the car and it started to whine. I topped it off and the whine went away immediately. After I shut the car off, the reservoir overflowed all over the place! Jeez, not sure what I did wrong. I didn't fill it to the top or anything.
The CSM says there's a Full mark, I don't see a "full" line anywhere in this reservoir. Would anyone know exactly where I fill the pump up to?
Last edited by ourkid2000; Sep 20, 2024 at 11:04 AM.
Just some pics. Not sure where I'm going wrong here. The manual says to bring to the full mark and start the engine and let idle for 30 seconds, then fast idle for a couple mins and turn the wheel left and right a few times. Well, after the 2 -3 mins I shut the car off but before I had a chance to jack it and turn the wheels.......she overflowed!
The manual says to bring to the full mark and start the engine and let idle for 30 seconds, then fast idle for a couple mins and turn the wheel left and right a few times.
Originally Posted by ourkid2000
Well, after the 2 -3 mins I shut the car off but before I had a chance to jack it and turn the wheels.......she overflowed!
Seems you're supposed to turn the wheels back and forth while the engine is running. This will purge the air. You turned the engine off before purging the air, and that air escaping from the lower areas pushed the fluid up and out.
So at this point, raise the front end, add fluid, and turn the wheels back and forth. Don't start the engine first, do a lot of turns first to push as much air out as possible.
... which leads to the question: although I realize it's less than best practice, can the purge be accomplished by turning the wheels back and forth while they're on the ground?
... which leads to the question: although I realize it's less than best practice, can the purge be accomplished by turning the wheels back and forth while they're on the ground?
Yes, but you'll scuff the tires and the pavement. How hard is it to slip a floor jack under the front crossmember.
Yes, but you'll scuff the tires and the pavement. How hard is it to slip a floor jack under the front cross member.
Not to mention unneeded stressing on the entire front chassis. I always recommend only turning the wheels (when possible) with the car moving, even just a little.
I believe the manual states to raise the front end and perform the "lock to lock, recheck fluid level" process after installing a new components where the fluid was drained.
Mike from Power Steering iterated the same thing when I asked about burping the box.
Makes me laugh when I see an inexperienced or elderly person school-bussing or arm-strong-steering while maneuvering around in a wide open space.
1) There’s a fill line on the reservoir that you don’t want to go beyond. It’ll look not full, and may make noise when cold. When cold, the (sometimes faintly stamped) fill line looks really low. And sorta is. I fill conservatively, then with front wheels in the air, cycle the steering back & forth a few times to try to get the air out when the car is cold & on jacks. Once that step is done I go for a drive with fluid in the trunk to top up as necessary.
2) I’ve used Dexron III for years, or it’s replacement, As long as you have one fluid and not an emulsion of 2, or mixture of 2, I think you’re o.k. At least I’ve been.
3) When the car is warm/hot, the fluid expands a lot so be conservative with adding fluid or expect to be cleaning it off the underside of the hood, any cruise control unit & the driver’s fender. I try to only add fuild after a long hot drive and even then I add by the ounce to avoid the hot fluid puke effect which has me cleaning messy dusty oil off engine parts.
I’m probably too late, but as you put the steering box back in, and may not have a helper, see if a ratchet strap or 2 can help you. Here & there they can replace a helper.
