Please Help....Good Deal???
Please Help....Good Deal???
I am looking at a 1969 Toronado which supposedly runs and drives good. I am mostly interested in the engine from this car. Anyhow, the guy wants $1000 for the car and I'm wondering if that is a decent deal. Any opinions greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
$1,000 for just an engine is a little steep, especially if you then have to remove it and dispose of the car. However, if you can turn the car around for a decent price and recoup some of the grand then it may be worth it. Maybe you guys can work a deal...
In the parts wanted section there are always guys looking for early toro parts, so if you have the room you could part it out and maybe recover your investment. You could also make an offer say 800 bucks
Appreciate all the input....I wouldn't pay $1000 for just an engine but I realize the guy is selling a whole car. And I do intend to part it out and can probably recoupe most if not all of my investment. Or I might just take the easy way out by just moving the whole car to someone like Jamesbo to recoupe some. And it's a no-brainer to try and deal with the guy...especially since he's said he's negotiable and just needs to get rid of it. After talking to him I'm pretty confident I can get it for around $800 at most. We'll see...am meeting with him this evening. Thanks again for all the input!!
In case anyone is interested I got the car for $600.00. Mostly due to the fact that we couldn't get it started due to a flywheel issue. We got it to catch a couple times and it fired but we were never able to get it to turn over enough to get the fuel pumped up. Compression seemed good while turning it over by hand to get the good part of the flywheel to the starter and I did verify that it was original to the car and all original. So I'm comfortable with it. Not sure how much I'll be able to part out on the body and chassis as it's in pretty rough shape. So now....what do I need to be concerned with when I go to put the engine in my cutlass? I'm aware of the starter and oil filter issues....anything else?
I would also buy a set of 11:1 compression pistons and a full roller rocker cam with roller lifters. Don't forget to put the Batten heads on it with a set of full length open headers. You might also want to invest in a girdle and an Offenhauser Port-a-Sonic intake manifold. You will probably only spend $5000-$8000 on the machine work to get it race ready. 
Just kidding.
Post some pics please.

Just kidding.

Post some pics please.
In case anyone is interested I got the car for $600.00. Mostly due to the fact that we couldn't get it started due to a flywheel issue. We got it to catch a couple times and it fired but we were never able to get it to turn over enough to get the fuel pumped up. Compression seemed good while turning it over by hand to get the good part of the flywheel to the starter and I did verify that it was original to the car and all original. So I'm comfortable with it. Not sure how much I'll be able to part out on the body and chassis as it's in pretty rough shape. So now....what do I need to be concerned with when I go to put the engine in my cutlass? I'm aware of the starter and oil filter issues....anything else?
Last edited by f-85; Feb 5, 2009 at 07:47 PM.
Olds64 you're always good for a laugh....love your posts! I'll get picks as soon as I can. As for the nylon timing gears, at the risk of sounding stupid, is that for real....nylon?
Yes, and they were JUNK. I personally have broken at least 2 stock nylon timing gears. Buicks use them too.
Just think, with all the money wasted on cast iron J head exhaust ports, they may have been able to afford real timing gears.
F-85 below, shredded his timing gear into a million pieces, and clogged his oil pump pickup solid with it.
Just think, with all the money wasted on cast iron J head exhaust ports, they may have been able to afford real timing gears.

F-85 below, shredded his timing gear into a million pieces, and clogged his oil pump pickup solid with it.
Just the outer part of the gear including the teeth. Basically a good idea, but the the nylon they used just didn't hold up. Good nylon gives the chain some shock resistance, is quiter, and would wear well. But not only did they not hold up well, when they let go, the pieces could go where they'd cause further damage.
If the car has the correct 69 disc brake set up, you should be able to sell off the wheel assemblies from the knuckles out to someone looking to upgrade a 66 to 68 front drum car. Cars of those years if not equipped with disc brakes require complete knuckles out to do the swap. The 69 set ups are the prefered choice eliviating the hassles with 4 piston calipers and the almost impossible to find correct 67 68 rotors and the parts for the 69 up cars are plentiful once the knuckles and hubs have been aquired. Just guessing but you potentially could see half your investment back just for these parts. John
Wanted to post some pics but can't seem to get it done. Anyone know what's up or know any tricks to post pics. Have gotten great feedback and I appreciate it. Of course the engine is my target. The body and interior are in my opinion nearly useless. Thanks for the info on the wheel assemblies....will definitely keep that in mind.
Well now...here's a story you'll love...on the way home from getting the car, which had to be flat bedded, there was a bit of excitement. I was following the wrecker and we were about 30 miles into a 35 mile trip when the rear window of the Toro flew out in one piece. It went straight up and was spinning over. And this is at about 65 miles per hour. Naturally my reaction was to slow down...bad move...but how much can you accomplish or think about in a period of about 2-3 seconds. Anyhow, I realized at the last second it was gonna hit me right in the windshield!! I held the wheel steady, leaned to my right, turned my head away, and closed my eyes......BOOM!!!......then nothing, a quick mental inventory, I'm ok. Didn't even stop, didn't see the need at that point. And the wrecker driver never new it happened. By the damage it appears to have hit on it's edge about halfway up the pillar post. Put a nice crease about 1 inch deep across the pillar and front part of the door as if someone hit it with a dull axe, a shattered portion of my windshield about the size of a dollar bill, and numerous cracks across the windshield. And to top it all off I'm an HVAC tech and was in my service van!! That should go over well on Monday. But if that's the worst I have to deal with that's fine with me....coulda been ugly!!
Well now...here's a story you'll love...on the way home from getting the car, which had to be flat bedded, there was a bit of excitement. I was following the wrecker and we were about 30 miles into a 35 mile trip when the rear window of the Toro flew out in one piece. It went straight up and was spinning over. And this is at about 65 miles per hour. Naturally my reaction was to slow down...bad move...but how much can you accomplish or think about in a period of about 2-3 seconds. Anyhow, I realized at the last second it was gonna hit me right in the windshield!! I held the wheel steady, leaned to my right, turned my head away, and closed my eyes......BOOM!!!......then nothing, a quick mental inventory, I'm ok. Didn't even stop, didn't see the need at that point. And the wrecker driver never new it happened. By the damage it appears to have hit on it's edge about halfway up the pillar post. Put a nice crease about 1 inch deep across the pillar and front part of the door as if someone hit it with a dull axe, a shattered portion of my windshield about the size of a dollar bill, and numerous cracks across the windshield. And to top it all off I'm an HVAC tech and was in my service van!! That should go over well on Monday. But if that's the worst I have to deal with that's fine with me....coulda been ugly!!
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I am always on the lookout for 1969 Toroando head light switches.
It would be one or the other. 