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'73 Delta questions

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Old March 13th, 2013, 10:04 AM
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'73 Delta questions

Though it's still winter up in Minnesota, I'm starting to think about spring when my convertible emerge form its hibernation. I've got two questions:

I need a new radiator cap and want to buy original Delco cap, not an off-market brand. Trouble is, I don't know the correct part number to look for. My Olds has the standard 350 engine, but is equipped with optional heavy-duty cooling equipment.

Second question regards motor oil. I've had the car for 10 years and have had no problems. I recall discussing oils with the shop I use, but gave up when answers were hard to come by. I'm reading about ZDDP, should I be adding this? Should I try to find an oil that has ZDDP? My cars booklet only states that I should use a good SE oil (not tons of information).

THANKS!
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Old March 13th, 2013, 10:25 AM
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Brad Penn for the oil. Fusick for the cap. Don't have a PN for the original. With some Google sleuthing you might be able to find it? Fusick has one that will look and function as original. Stant may have it too? Always ask if its offshore or the 3 cans (Ameri, Canadi, Mexi) Stay clear of Offshore. Also IMO consider stepping down off the recommended 15-16 PSI caps. I run 7psi caps on most of my cars. Helps old radiators and new or old hoses live longer.
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Old March 13th, 2013, 10:53 AM
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Today's motor oil far exceeds the SE ratings recommended in 1973. IMO, you don't need fancy high buck motor oil. Havoline, Valvoline, Castrol, or any other reputable brand of the proper viscosity will treat your 1973 engine just fine. I had the conversation with my engine builder. He filled our 1954 324 engine with Joe Gibbs break in oil. When asked what oil to use after the break-in period, he said "just use your favorite 10W-30."
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Old March 13th, 2013, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Rocket331
you don't need fancy high buck motor oil. "just use your favorite 10W-30."
I couldn't agree more. I have a '73 wagon with a 455, and when I change the oil, I just put in whatever name brand is on sale at the local auto parts store and don't give it a second thought. I do that with my '67 Delta 88 with a 425 as well. No problems with either.

I think there's a tendency for people to overthink the needs of old cars or assume that they need to be babied or need special treatment. Back in the day, you would have done the same thing. Go to the auto parts store, get whatever's on sale, as long as it met the correct "S" requirement, and pour it in.

I do the same thing with all fluids (brake, oil, coolant, transmission) on my old cars. Whatever's around today is better, sometimes much better, than what was the norm 40 years ago, and our cars survived just fine on, and actually were designed to run on, those.
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Old March 13th, 2013, 11:42 AM
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As far as a radiator cap, rockauto.com has AC/Delco brand ones for about $7.00 plus shipping. Part number RC81.

Fusick has what are described as "Reproduction AC Radiator caps", and, in typical Fusick fashion, they're $26.50. Ouch.
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Old March 13th, 2013, 01:39 PM
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thanks for the timely responses!
as for the oil, i'll relax & not worry. like i wrote before, my car is fine.
and as for the cap, jaunty, i did check out that cap & you're right, except i'm
hoping to replace the original i have with one just like it. it's probably stupid,
but i'm trying to keep whatever's replaced looking like original. i see caps that
"look" like the one i have on ebay, but i know looks mean nothing. that's why i
want to find a part number. i have popped around the internets,
but have come up with nothing.
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Old March 13th, 2013, 01:53 PM
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73 all B and C opt. Y72 cap part# 6410427
This information is on wildaboutcars.com free to join and use!

Pat
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Old March 13th, 2013, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by normadesmond
i'm hoping to replace the original i have with one just like it.
I ran across this in the box o' parts that came with my '73 wagon when I got it three years ago. I knew I had one laying around. I don't know if it will work for you, but if you can use it, I'll be more than happy to send it to you. I have no idea if it works, but I don't see anything wrong with it.

It does not have a part number anywhere on it that I can see other than "RC6" below the "13 lb" label in the circle on the right, but it does say AC on it. If you want it, send me a private message (PM) with your address, and I'll get it right out to you. No charge. I'd like to see it used rather than sitting in box.

If it's not correct for your application, maybe somebody here can tell me what it is correct for. I would be most appreciative. Thank you.






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Old March 13th, 2013, 08:47 PM
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1970cs....FABULOUS!

what's funny is that i've been to that site, but never investigated. i can't believe i finally know the number to that cap!

jaunty75.....YOU ARE WAY TOO NICE!

i most certainly would've taken you up on your offer, but i think what you have is different. though i can't get to my car now, i found a cap for sale on ebay. haven't decided yet whether i'll buy this or wait for a new/old one.

i tried to post a photo of the correct cap, but i'm stupid & can't figure it out. below is ebay link to cap i think is correct. again, thank you both for all your time. can't tell you how much i appreciate it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281067137000&fromMakeT rack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en[/IMG]

Last edited by normadesmond; March 13th, 2013 at 08:54 PM.
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Old March 14th, 2013, 04:17 AM
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Jmo, I buy name brand oil on sale. I buy zinc supplements from Summit usually on sale. One bottle treats 9 qts. Name brands, just bought 3 bottles (Comp cams) brand. I had a $25 coupon off $150 worth of stuff. I put a half bottle in each oil chance. Cost $5 more. I use only Wick filters, Napa gold. Good luck, Ken
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Old March 14th, 2013, 05:42 AM
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If your still worried about the zinc content, most big box stores and auto parts carry Quaker State Defy which according to lab test contains 1200 ppm of zinc around $4 mark per quart.
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Old March 14th, 2013, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by normadesmond
... i found a cap for sale on ebay. haven't decided yet whether i'll buy this or wait for a new/old one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tchlink:top:en
Are you seriously considering paying $31 for a USED radiator cap, still in the box that its replacement came in, as placed on the garage shelf by the "old guy who never threw anything away" 30 years ago, which was probably replaced because it was no good?!?



To each his own, I guess. Good luck with that.

- Eric
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Old March 14th, 2013, 06:14 AM
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actually, no.
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Old March 14th, 2013, 06:17 AM
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That's a relief.

- Eric
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Old March 14th, 2013, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by normadesmond
jaunty75.....YOU ARE WAY TOO NICE!
Thank you, but this is an opinion not universally shared on here.
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Old March 14th, 2013, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
Are you seriously considering paying $31 for a USED radiator cap
Wow, from the appearance, mine looks to be in nicer shape than that one. Forget what I said above, I want $50 for mine!


Where did you see the "old guy who never threw anything away" comment? I didn't see that in the ebay listing.

Last edited by jaunty75; March 14th, 2013 at 07:15 AM.
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Old March 14th, 2013, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by jaunty75
Where did you see the "old guy who never threw anything away" comment? I didn't see that in the ebay listing.
It wasn't in the ad.

Look at the box.

Someone wrote on it, in old-guy handwriting, "15#" and "USED."

The guy bought a new cap at the dealer, installed it, put the old cap in the box, wrote what it was, and put it on the shelf.

When my grandfather died, I went through stacks of boxes in the garage, all brand-new, all containing take-off (and presumably no-good) parts, and all with little notations in pen of exactly what was inside.
All the guys used to do it - they grew up during the depression, and even if the part needed to be replaced, if it was still "kind of" good, they'd keep it, "just in case."

The seller is literally selling garbage.

- Eric
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Old March 14th, 2013, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
in old-guy handwriting
Ah, so you're a handwriting expert, too. Cool.

All I have to say is, my wife's printing would qualify as "old-guy handwriting", and she's written that way at least as long as I've known her. I met her when she was 19.
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Old March 14th, 2013, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jaunty75
Ah, so you're a handwriting expert, too.


If I were more of an expert, I could put it into better terms, but if you look, you can see that it's written in fairly simple block letters, but the "U" has a completely unnecessary tail (considering that all the rest of the letters are capitals).
To me that looks like a more-or less self-taught guy, who probably learned at the plant that if he put tails on his Us, nobody would think they were Vs.
That's not a little curly "blip" of a tail - it's a strong straight line straight down from the top of the letter, which is about a third the height of the letter as a whole.
If he had learned it in school, he'd have never put a tail on it.

Also, the letters are formed carefully, but there's no art to them - the top half of the S is taller than the bottom, and the D is a bit pointy - to me this shows a very practical person. When I write on a box like that, I think of myself having to glance over it up on the shelf, over and over again, and I try to make the letters look purtier, because I'm not a non-nonsense guy from the Depression.

- Eric
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Old March 14th, 2013, 06:35 PM
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very amusing banter!
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Old April 4th, 2013, 06:03 AM
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handwriting

Eric,

I appreciate your handwriting analysis. It's nice to know there's someone else out there who pays attention to little things like that. It's obvious that you could be wrong but I cannot argue with your logic and would not be surprised if you were spot-on.
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Old April 4th, 2013, 06:10 AM
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Thank you. Too many things in my brain at once is why I get so little done.
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Old April 5th, 2013, 10:12 PM
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MDchanic, i'd say you got it right too.
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Old April 6th, 2013, 03:25 AM
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Thank you.
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