Hi there. Thanks for reading and any help.

I have a 1968 442. When I bought it it had the ignition switch rigged to loose wires - not sure if it was done as a quick fix to start because the original keys were lost or there was some other problem with the electrical wiring. It was able to start and run with the set-up. I had the battery terminals detached for a while and then when I wanted to start the car re-attached them. When I turned the key I smelled wires melting so I detached the wires without noting the connections to the rigged ignition switch wiring. Looking back I think I may have had the battery terminals mixed-up because the negative cable is red and the positive cable is black - oops.....

Now having a new battery to replace the old/weak one and connecting the ignition switch to where it is suppose to be there is no power/lights/indications at all. I have a device to test connectivity/voltage. I tested a few connection points on the fuse box and ignition switch plug to the positive battery terminal cable but with no connectivity seen. I tested some of the loose wires where the rigged ignition switch was wired with the battery attached but none some to be live. Guess I may have blown a link or burned something out. I would appreciate advice on where I should check for connectivity to isolate the problem - start & end points between terminals, etc. Thanks a lot!

 

Get a factory service manual. If you reversed battery connections, the diodes in the alternator are probably fried. Check the fusible links. There is a main power feeds to the ignition switch ( red wire) all the other wires power up certain parts of the fuse box, and supply power to the starter solenoid when in crank. The ignition switch also removes power from certain parts of the fuse box depending on key position. It’s sll outlined in the manual. Don’t get a reprinted version, they are printed in black and white. The factory books are in color. Much easier to read the diagrams.

 

Check the red wire that runs from the horn relay power stud to the bulkhead connector under the power booster/master cylinder There may be a fusible link at the power stud.

 

There is SUPPOSED to be a fusible link in that wire. If it's there, it likely is blown and needs to be replaced.

Is there power at the horn relay stud with the key off (there should be)? Is there power at the STOP-HAZ fuse with the key off (again, there should be)?

 

Thanks everyone for the help on this. After checking and not finding power at the horn relay I discovered that a hot wire which would normally be there was replaced by a wire that was routed to an aftermarket 3-gauge instrument panel voltmeter which was disconnected. I wired the incoming and outgoing wires together by-passing the gauge, gaining power to the horn relay. I plugged-in the ignition switch, turned the key and got the engine to turn.

The car had been sitting for a long time, so I dropped the gas tank, drained it, put in some fresh gas with fuel system cleaner to soak for a few days and then drained that before re-installing the gas tank. I replaced the oil and oil filter. The car will start and run. It goes into gear and moves. The problem now is that it doesn't stop! I'm trouble-shooting the brake system now. If I can't figure-out whats going on there I hope to tap into the expertise of the kind forum members through a new post. Thanks!

 

To trouble shoot the brake system, we first need to know exactly what happens when you push on the brake pedal with the engine running. Is it power brakes or manual? Drum or disc? Is the brake light on the dash illuminated? Is the master cylinder out of fluid? Did you pull the wheels and look for leaks?