taps442

Here's the story! My son bought a nice clean 64 Cutlass w/ 330/4bbl and the jetaway/switchpitch and factory a/c. He limped it from Calif to Texas, where we did a major tuneup and replaced the original timing chain and gears. Car ran great, however, on the test drive, car wouldnt shift to 2nd. So, he decided not to keep that trans, and instead installed a turbo 350 w/ shiftkit. Then he decided to install tubular A-arms and QA1 coilover front shocks as well as a much bigger solid front swaybar, along with new power disc brakes on the front. We also blasted and powder coated black a set of 15-7 rally wheels with some beefy BFGs on all 4 corners. At this point is when the car stopped running. We towed it back to the house and first charged the autozone 1000 cranking amp battery-now it tests at 12.9 volts (it tested fine under a load). We then replaced the battery cables on the positive side from the battery to the junction post, and from that post to the solenoid on the starter and cleaned the firewall where the braided ground strap connects then re-tightened the ground strap. The wire that runs in the harness to the switch on the solenoid had a loose splice, so we re-spliced and reconnected to the S on the solenoid. We now get 12.9 volts on that wire when you turn ignition key to the start position. We also get 12.9 volts at the large positive cable that attaches to the solenoid. However, we get no start. We pulled the starter and tested it at the auto parts place and they thought it sounded weird, so we bought another one (with the new solenoid) and installed. First start clicked, then nothing. We intermittently will get the Gen lite to come on, then occasionally we get the oil and another light to come on, then turn off after a couple seconds, but the car wont start and doesn't even attempt to turn over. Also, sometimes we can get the headlights to come on, but most of the time we have no lights of any kind. I just started pulling the nuetral safety switch, but I seriously doubt that is the problem--I still should be able to get lights on all the time.We also pulled the wiring harness connector off from the firewall and checked the connections and re-installed. Also ohmed all the fuses in the fusebox and they are all good. At this point my son and I are both VERY frustrated after working on it all day. We do have the factory manual but still must be missing something! Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance!---Steve

rocketraider

You didn't mention checking the battery (-) cable. Check it and then the ignition switch.

Make sure the (-) cable ground straps to the core support are in place and clean.


Also- you've switched out the transmission. Make sure the downshift and switch-pitch plugs have not grounded out against anything and blown the transmission control fuse. The IGN terminal on the main ignition switch feeds that fuse, the instrument fd (idiot lights) fuse, and wiper fuse in addition to the ignition resistor wire to the coil.

Mingus

I believe 64's have the junction block on the fenderwell like my '66 where all of the + cables connect. It could be the park/neutral switch or the ignition switch, but the fact the lights don't want to work sometimes makes me think of the junction block. The connectors were corroded on mine and it was doing something similar. It would work fine once and then nothing the next time.

66ninetyeightls

Have you tried manuall activating the starter taking the ignition switch out of the equation?

I aslo agreed with Rocket that you must check the ground wire from the battery to the engine. Last month mine was doing the same thing. My battery tested fine but wouldn't even get a click out of the starter. Through some booster cables on and she fired right up. My battery had an internal short and just couldn't provide the amps.

bil

Check for the small woven ground strap at the back of the engine-it goes to the firewall.A lot of times this is left off after an engine/trans removal. Also-that junction block on the fender-take it off and inspect it from the bottom also.I had one that looked good,but wasn't. ---bil

taps442

Thanks for the responses!
Rocketraider-I have the negative cable from the battery routed to the bolt on the back of the power steering pump--maybe that's not a good spot? (that's where it was)
The wires that were used for the switch-pitch at the carb and the hardware for that I have removed. Hmmm-Where is the transmission control fuse located?

Mingus-I still need to finish pulling the nuetral safety switch-and It very well could be the ignition switch--haven't replaced that yet!

66-98-ls--I tried the old screwdriver from hot to the s on the solenoid--but got nothing--not even a spark!

bil-I did check and clean the woven ground strap at the back of the engine and cleaned the firewall of paint and re-tightened it onto the firewall.
I actually had to move the junction block because it was too close to the new proportioning valve-I did check the bottom, but all looked fine-also, when I checked voltages-I have 12.9 volts at the junction from the battery cable and going from the junction to the starter.

Are there any special fuses that are inline on the wiring that have blown--like a fusible link type?
Thanks again all for your help!
Steve

Lady72nRob71

Please clairify where the negative cable is attaching.
If it is on the heavy steel bracket of the PS pump, then it might be okay.
Usually it should be attached to the block itself.
The starter pulls a LOT of current, so correct grounding is essential for its operation, AND to prevent the current draw from damaging something else.
If the neg cable looks any bit damaged or worn, then it should be replaced.

citcapp

Have you had the battery tested? Just because it shows 12.9 volt does not mean it is good. Put the voltage tester on the battery then have you son try the to start the car, read the voltage when the key is turned to the start position. If there is a huge drop in voltage you battery may not be charged enough of it has dead cells.

bil

OOOH-the old screwdriver trick-that one is always fun! If there was no spark there,try touching the screwdriver directly to the block.... no,wait-don't! You can use a test light-see if there is current from the Battery to the junction block,then see if there is power at the starter positive cable.They have a crimped end that may be a problem.I had ine of them come loose on a replacement cable one time,drove my crazy. ---bil Have you made sure the starter is not locked in the flywheel/ring gear? If the battery was low,it would click and engage,and not have enough to return.Key off,rotate the engine by hand back and forth will get the spring to release usually.When they stick,it causes funny things to happen.

taps442

Well, just about everyone nailed it! I pulled the only battery cable not replaced (The negative) and decided I would get a longer cable to fasten the cable directly to the engine block. When I got to the parts store, I gave the old cable to a friend of mine that works there and about a minute later he says--I think I may have found your problem! He hands me the cable and shows me that while he was holding the cable to measure it--The battery connecter fell off!! And I had that cable on and off of the battery many times! Boy, it sure seems like the basic stuff can really humble ya!! Anyways, got the new cable, connected back to original site, and Voila! The car started as soon as I readjusted the neutral safety switch. Runs good. Of course, then the shabby work that had been mickey moused started showing when the new trans line at the radiator started spitting trans fluid everywhere! (the guy who installed the turbo 350 trans apparently had a leak when he installed the new trans lines--so he put a little O-ring and silicon on it and tightened it just enough to keep it from leaking. Since the car wouldn't start or make any oil pressure-we didn't discover it till car started! I guess it's back to the old saying that if you want it done right---Do it yourself! (With help from the friends at ClassicOlds!!--Thanks again everybody!---Steve

bil

Congrats! Now for the new thread on the tranny lines! ---bil

Lady72nRob71

Yep, these are the things that try one's patience. Glad it is fixed now.
Not to fix those other little things..........

citcapp

Aw the trials and tribulations of a Olds nut. Glad you got it fixed now on to the next problem and then the next and then........................

Gotta love it