What would you do?

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Old Jul 27, 2025 | 09:35 AM
  #1  
Lancealars's Avatar
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What would you do?

Hey guys. Still tinkering with my 67 cutlass. Found the bushing in the center link for the pitman arm is whats causing the most play in the steering. Upon further inspection, tie rod ends could be changed as well. Rockauto has the whole kit for almost the price of JUST the center link on other sites. Would be nice to have a clean new front end. Im new to all this but absolutely love ripping apart and repairing. Question is: do i go ahead and change the springs and shocks while im down there? Im sure they are original. I've never done this and hear ball joints and springs is not for the weak. My neighbor say eff it just throw new bushings on and lets roll. ....Lol.
Old Jul 27, 2025 | 09:48 AM
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What brand is the kit? Be cautious replacing old time quality parts that are in good condition with new unknown probably lesser quality parts just for the sake of replacing them.
Old Jul 27, 2025 | 10:13 AM
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Skp
Old Jul 27, 2025 | 01:17 PM
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20+ years ago I put a "white-box" kit in the front suspension of my 64 98. I think I got it at Kanter. They were probably imported but it worked well.

Last edited by Olds64; Jul 28, 2025 at 04:10 AM.
Old Jul 27, 2025 | 01:17 PM
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SKP is just another offshore aftermarket parts vendor - easily searched online and seemingly subject to the same sort of mixed forum reviews all of them get.

sticking to a brand name you have personal experience with may give you the most peace of mind, even if not the most peace of wallet... Of course even the names we know aren't really the brands we know anymore - brands such as Moog, Timken, AC Delco, etc. have all become offshore variants of what they used to be, so buyer beware is the new norm for us.
Old Jul 27, 2025 | 02:49 PM
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You really can't go wrong with MOOG, I've never had an issue with their stuff. The center link or drag link is the only part that is troublesome as it has been discontinued by MOOG.. My car was one of the original test vehicles for the Proforged parts. I installed the tierods (inner/outer and adjusting sleeve), center link, and idler arm on my car some years ago and they are still functioning as designed. My Ball joints, rubber control arm bushings, and sway bar links are all MOOG. Disregard my spring pn's unless you are trying to raise the car.
Thread for the Proforged items:
I get steering gear setup for free - ClassicOldsmobile.com

Thread for front end rebuild of other parts, you will not have any interference issues with engine mounts:
Oldcutlass gets new front end - ClassicOldsmobile.com

Last edited by oldcutlass; Jul 27, 2025 at 02:53 PM.
Old Jul 27, 2025 | 08:51 PM
  #7  
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CH3NO2 LEARN IT BURN IT
 
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MAW....do bushings, BJs, all steering linkage sway bar bushings etc.
If the ride height is good and its not leaning the springs are OK.
Now everythings fresh & tight not just some of it.

Then MAW do the rear end too.

Steer (intended) clear of offshore junk.
Label the upper control arm shims so they go back in the exact same locations. Measure and count the inner/outer rod ends threads/length. Match all that up to the new parts. Your alignment shop will thank you.
Old Jul 28, 2025 | 03:34 AM
  #8  
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Droldsmorman, exactly what im going to do. Not sure what MAW means. Lol and yes the *** end is also getting new shocks and looks like rear springs as she sits really low and changing those doesn't look quite as deadly. Ha. I wont bother you all on types and brands of shocks. Plenty of old forum info here .
I appreciate everyones input. Was hoping to bring it to street rods here in Louisville but maybe next year.
Old Jul 28, 2025 | 06:13 AM
  #9  
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MAW:

MAW = Might As Well.... It's an acronym often used in the restoration business or any other thing/project one digs into.

Logic: You are in there; you might as well replace X, as you are looking right at it... and it only makes logical sense to do it.

EX: I have to replace a sticking caliper....MAW do the soft line too. They are a consumable....AND MAW bleed the brakes as the fluid is worn out after 5 years or 50K miles.

MAW also applies to what we call "Project Creep". Start out detailing the firewall, next thing ya know, the engines out for a rebuild.

The MAWs will get you!
Old Jul 31, 2025 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by droldsmorland
MAW:

MAW = Might As Well.... It's an acronym often used in the restoration business or any other thing/project one digs into.

Logic: You are in there; you might as well replace X, as you are looking right at it... and it only makes logical sense to do it.

EX: I have to replace a sticking caliper....MAW do the soft line too. They are a consumable....AND MAW bleed the brakes as the fluid is worn out after 5 years or 50K miles.

MAW also applies to what we call "Project Creep". Start out detailing the firewall, next thing ya know, the engines out for a rebuild.

The MAWs will get you!
MAW, Another nickname for project creep. "while I'm there I might as well" Took me a few vehicles to get that out of my system and only replace/fix what is needed and if it aint broke don't touch it.
Old Aug 1, 2025 | 04:39 AM
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Even though I bought a "white box" kit for my 64 98, if I do the front suspension of my 71 98 I'd probably buy Moog parts now since I'm not a poor college student anymore. Now if only I can convince Mama. 🤔
Old Aug 1, 2025 | 06:58 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Olds64
Even though I bought a "white box" kit for my 64 98, if I do the front suspension of my 71 98 I'd probably buy Moog parts now since I'm not a poor college student anymore. Now if only I can convince Mama. 🤔
Many times those white box kits from Kanter and the like are moog or trw parts in a blank no logo box. The Kanter white box kit I got for my Lemans was all TRW. But that was a few decades ago. I'd not be at all shocked to find trw(or whatever name they now go under)/moog/etc still suppling classic parts house's house brands
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