I'm in the midst of a frame off resto of my '70 Cutlass Supreme. 20+ years ago (25K miles) I rebuilt the entire front suspension. Everything has been disassembled, cleaned, painted. Ball joints replaced, bushings, ect. again. The center link had a small piece of plastic starting to come out of the stud area, MAW replace it. I ordered a Moog DS -749. It doesn't fit,, it's close but upon comparing the old one (that fit) the boss area where the studs that go into the Pitman arm and Idler arm are 1/8" taller, plus it's 1/16" thicker which should be better. This causes interference where the centerlink moves across the frame "snout". Actually, I'd have to draw it in with the nuts and that's unacceptable. I tried a different brand and same result.
This is a simple stock rebuild so nothing's exotic. My parts guys are at a loss.

Has anyone encountered this issue?
Appreciate any input. K. Lee

 

Following along. I haven't started the front end rebuild on my 70 442 but I have the Moog DS-749 for it too. Bought from Rockauto.

 

I'll be sure to post anything I find out. I'm sure some members on here will hopefully chime in.

 

I fully rebuilt my '72 Cutlass suspension in 2016 right after purchase - much of it still appeared original to the car. Replaced everything with Moog replacement parts where available (including a DS749 center link) and didn't encounter any problem. Are you mixing original parts with replacements? Possibly the new center link would be more compatible with other new connecting parts?

these are some of the items I installed:

Moog DS749 Center Link

Moog Tie Rod Ends ES406R (outer) and ES406L (inner)

ES2004S - Moog Tie Rod Sleeves

Moog Replacement Idler Arm K5143

My pitman arm came from CPP since it didn't appear Moog offered one


Just a shot in the dark on this idea.

 

Thanks for the responses everyone.
70sgeek, the only original part of the steering is the steering box and Pitman arm and the steering box can only go on one way and has not been modified in any way. I took it off to clean and paint. The idler is a replacement from the rebuild 20 years ago, sadly I didn't save the receipt. It has a number stamped on it which I'll get today. and some pictures.
When I attempt to install the CL (ctr. link) in the Pitman arm the middle hits the frame snout and would bind if I drew it tight with the nuts.
There is a physical difference in the replacement (which fits) and the new Moog DS-749, not much, but enough to cause my problem. Nothing stamped on the old CL.
I don't know how many thousands of GM A body frames were build but if there's a quirk I'm the guy that gets it, lol. I'll just have to keep digging.

Thanks again , K. Lee

 

I had a issue with Moog center links approx 4 years back as they did not fit ( bent a little wrong ).
Went to another auto part store bought another, with the same issue.
Went to a third store, and don't know why, other than this made no seance and bought a Duralast link that fit.
Returned both Moog's

I think Moog had a bad production run.

 

69455, Thank you, you have given me a glimmer of hope,

 

You probably know this, but if not...

You will need to take the idler arm loose from the frame in order to clear engine crossmember. Once the centerlink and tie rods are drawn into the tapers, then attach the idler arm.

 

For the curious I'll post some pics of the dilemma with the center link. One of my parts guys is ordering a new Federal Mogul CL that's supposed to be here Saturday. They brought up a concern. They said it looks like it's not a solid piece and the ends are welded on next to the tie rod end hole. I'm guessing that's acceptable in today's manufacturing processes?

The new Moog CL. In the box is where it hits, the arrow points where the stud is not even seated. Tightening the nut makes it even worse.

The old CL, tons of clearance and the stud is fully seated in the Pitman arm.

1. IMG_20190822_130321.jpg
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2. 
   The new CL fully seated in the Pitman arm, but the CL is swung away from the X member.
4. 
   

 

None of your pictures are there

 

x2

 

I'm totally open for "operator error". I did try this with the new Moog CL, but it was a "pry" job to get the Idler to line up with the holes in the frame thereby stressing the actual pivot point where the CL attaches to the Pitman arm. The CL I'm replacing will drop right into the Idler/Pitman with very little problem.
If I'm correct, the pivot in the CL are designed only for "circular motion" not "omni directional" such as a ball joint, correct?

If I'm doing something wrong I'll openly admit it here. What is baffling is, the old one fits fine and is not sloppy at all hopefully ruling out "it's worn out, that's why it fits easy"
Thanks to everyone with suggestions.

 

Sorry, not sure what I'm doing wrong. I took them with a cell phone and sent them to my laptop, Control C, Control V. Maybe I should send them from my phone directly to CO?

 

How to post pictures
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...images-132664/

 

I used one of these a few years ago on my 70 supreme. No issues what so ever.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PCQD...ut=center+link

Pretty much the same number!

Pat

 

“If I'm correct, the pivot in the CL are designed only for "circular motion" not "omni directional" such as a ball joint, correct?”

Correct. Apparently you have a part that is outside of print allowance. The holes in the new and old links should be close within i’d guess a 1/32” tolerance. Of course everything is made as cheap as possible these days, and even Moog falls victim to the constant cost reduction expectations and the eventual unacceptable results. My company may be doing an expensive recall for the same reason.

 

Cl success!
Well, I humbly admit to "operator error".
I did get the NAPA CL today and it's identical to the Moog DS749 which made me dubious. Even the parts guy questioned it.
I brought the CL to the shop and lo and behold it fit correctly. .
I called a friend to stop by, "Look over my shoulder and tell me what I'm doing wrong!" Installed the NAPA CL, fit great. He says, "get the Moog and we'll try it" he turned the Pitman arm to full rt, turn. "Now put it in the Pitman arm and force it in as far as you can", I did and hand tightened the nut, it swung over the frame snout with minimal struggle.
Finished the idler side and now have at least 1/4" clearance.

Thanks everyone for the reply's and advice.
Now,, if you'll excuse me I'm going to eat some Crow with Humble Pie for dessert.

 

Don’t sweat it. Everyone makes mistakes. I’ve made plenty. But the good news is that with each mistake, you get a little bit wiser. Good judgement comes from bad judgement as they say.