Wanted ,J-8806 ball joint breaker tool.
I need to beg, borrow or buy one .
If you can loan me one, I could put up a substantial deposit and pay postage both ways.
Here is a pic;

 

pm sent

 

Not trying to be flip or a pain, but why wouldn’t a pickle fork work?

Damage to rare parts?

You’d need to have a spring compressor for safety. After that, isn’t it getting the spindle off the ball joint for an interference-fit replacement ball joint?

I’m not a suspension pro, but when I get into suspension parts at this level, I try to have weight-bearing components magnaflux checked for cracks, just to be sure they’re sound with >100,000 miles on ‘em.

Chris

 

Chris,
The reason that I wanted to use this tool was because the ball joints were brand new.
A pickle fork destroys the boot. Which is OK for a joint that's going in the trash.

I originally assembled this chassis with Scarebird disc brakes.
Then I discovered that '70 FSC disc brake spindles will fit.
I managed to borrow this tool, and loosened the nuts several turns.
I used the tool to pop the joints loose.
When my '70 spindles arrive, I will use my OTC spring compressor to safely install the spindles.

 

Charlie,
That makes complete sense.

In all my years over both ‘66 big cars, I’ve never had a case of wanting to touch ball joints with intent to reuse them. Anytime I needed to remove them, the old ones were done and not going back on the road.

What are ‘70 FSC spindles?

Just looking at that KM tool, it looks like something you might be able to make with a deep socket, angle grinder and a tap & die. But that’s probably a desperation move.

Cheers
Chris

 

Most of the more popular kent moore tools have been made/copied by OTC for way less money.

 

1970 Full Size Car.
As opposed to F-85, Cutlass, 442 "junior" cars.

 

FWIW, I've had my eye on one of these to break loose ball joints without damaging the boots.

https://howeracing.com/collections/h...-spreader-tool

 

An air hammer and/or regular hammer can work well without causing damage.
You heat, beat or cool the knuckle (using the non meat hook approach AKA gentle). The taper should pop with one or two square blows at the knuckle or on the taper stud.

Might need to flip the castle castle nut upside down, unthread it just proud of the threads. Then use a semi-gentle square-on tap of a hammer while simultaneously zapping the knuckle with the air hammer. Small air hammer bursts with a wide flat adaptor.
Or try a small air hammer burst or two squarely on the taper nut. Just watch what your doing. It should not take a lot of effort to get the taper to separate and not cause damage.

I've only encountered a few that didn't pop with these methods, including new installs that needed to come apart. Usually rotted rusted junk forced me to get out the fire wrench. If you have a way to freeze it that could help a well.

 

I always hit the housing with a hammer and they pop right out

 

Sorry, but with all the front end rebuilds I've done, that has never worked for me. I have the Kent-Moore tool. There have been several on ebay recently. There are also several aftermarket clones for less money.

 

As a guy who has replaced somewhere around a Brazilian ball joints and tie rods, you need to swing harder. I can count on one hand how many times I've used a pickle fork or that spreader tool. A few good hits the joint pops and nothing is damaged..

 

And you need to use a 4-5# shop hammer, loosen your grip a bit as the hammer makes contact.

 

I always used the 32oz ballpeen hammer.