replacement front control arms '73 delta 88
#1
replacement front control arms '73 delta 88
hey
my control arm bushings are worn so id want to replace them.
heared thats sometimes very hart to ket the bushings come out of the arms.
Does anybody has an idea where can get replacement arms for 73 delta 88 ?
may there are matchong some ther B Body arms ? i checked summt, rockauto etc..
Or has somebody experiences to share ?
thanks
my control arm bushings are worn so id want to replace them.
heared thats sometimes very hart to ket the bushings come out of the arms.
Does anybody has an idea where can get replacement arms for 73 delta 88 ?
may there are matchong some ther B Body arms ? i checked summt, rockauto etc..
Or has somebody experiences to share ?
thanks
#2
SO fond some for on generation later for a 1977 but also b Body ...
does anyone know weather these match ?
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...model/delta-88
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...model/delta-88
al
does anyone know weather these match ?
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...model/delta-88
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...model/delta-88
al
#7
No way. It's a completely different car.
Nobody makes these new.
Your only choice is arems from a used car or arms from your car, which are really the same thing.
Just change your own bushings and ball joints.
Over here, we can borrow control arm bushing pullers for free from the auto parts store, but I assume that's not possible over there.
A local mechanic or machine shop should have the tools to press the bushings out without any problem, and if not, it is possible to do it yourself, just annoying.
- Eric
Nobody makes these new.
Your only choice is arems from a used car or arms from your car, which are really the same thing.
Just change your own bushings and ball joints.
Over here, we can borrow control arm bushing pullers for free from the auto parts store, but I assume that's not possible over there.
A local mechanic or machine shop should have the tools to press the bushings out without any problem, and if not, it is possible to do it yourself, just annoying.
- Eric
#8
I think these are the ones you want:
Uppers
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rn...model/delta-88
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rn...model/delta-88
There is no listing for a replacement lower that I can see, you may have to rebuild yours.
Uppers
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rn...model/delta-88
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rn...model/delta-88
There is no listing for a replacement lower that I can see, you may have to rebuild yours.
#9
@oldcutlass
ur linksare same that i posted just for that 1977 delta 88 i have a 1973 one. Eric said these wont match.
@eric
thanks for that infos. i think i may have to do that hard way and push them out. i read that there is a way only to pull out the rubber thing out and replace it. would u reccomend that ?
i pefer these bushing set http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...103g/overview/ so there are PU bushings which sould easy be replaced than pushing out the whole bushing
Is there a need to replace that control arm shaft ? or should i use the old ones ?
i also fond just the upper arm shaft and not the lower bolts....
alex
ur linksare same that i posted just for that 1977 delta 88 i have a 1973 one. Eric said these wont match.
@eric
thanks for that infos. i think i may have to do that hard way and push them out. i read that there is a way only to pull out the rubber thing out and replace it. would u reccomend that ?
i pefer these bushing set http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...103g/overview/ so there are PU bushings which sould easy be replaced than pushing out the whole bushing
Is there a need to replace that control arm shaft ? or should i use the old ones ?
i also fond just the upper arm shaft and not the lower bolts....
alex
#11
Yes, I did, and I'm sticking to it.
If someone here can tell me that they have a parts reference that shows they are the same, or that they have interchanged them themselves, then I will change my mind, but the'77 Delta is a COMPLETELY different car from the '73.
No. Don't even try that. You need to replace the whole part.
No, the shaft is usually fine, there should be no wearing parts on it, but there are no guarantees until you have take it apart and checked it.
- Eric
If someone here can tell me that they have a parts reference that shows they are the same, or that they have interchanged them themselves, then I will change my mind, but the'77 Delta is a COMPLETELY different car from the '73.
- Eric
#14
Eric is correct, control arms from a 77 B body will not fit on a 73. If you can't get a puller from the auto parts store you should be able to have the bushings taken out at a local machine shop. If you have the right tools it isn't hard at all.
#15
hey
the problem is ,i live in germany and not in the us, so all machine shops are weak and mechanics only know how to connect an notebook to a bmw :-)
Finding someone how can do this is taking same time as try to do it myself :-)
So what kinda tools are 100% needed. i saw at summit a ball joint remover
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...3620/overview/
I think with that i can get tese out but how can i press the new ones in ?
alex
the problem is ,i live in germany and not in the us, so all machine shops are weak and mechanics only know how to connect an notebook to a bmw :-)
Finding someone how can do this is taking same time as try to do it myself :-)
So what kinda tools are 100% needed. i saw at summit a ball joint remover
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...3620/overview/
I think with that i can get tese out but how can i press the new ones in ?
alex
Last edited by delta_88_germany; November 13th, 2013 at 01:54 AM.
#16
It is a sad commentary when a German says that German machine shops are "weak."
There was a time when they were making some of the best-machined products in the world in unheated factories strewn with rubble.
Here's how Rob did his lowers without special tools. I believe he has a thread on doing the uppers as well.
This job can be annoying without the special tools, but it is by no means impossible.
- Eric
There was a time when they were making some of the best-machined products in the world in unheated factories strewn with rubble.
Here's how Rob did his lowers without special tools. I believe he has a thread on doing the uppers as well.
This job can be annoying without the special tools, but it is by no means impossible.
- Eric
#18
You can get away with a propane or MAPP torch if all you are using it for is to burn out the rubber, but I suspect that in Germany the smoke might provoke a visit from the local blockwart or fire company.
- Eric
- Eric
#19
I was just in germany a few weeks ago, i could have helped you since i've done this before.
Aber mein deutsch ist sehr schlecht... I'm sure you could find a balljoint press on amazon.de and search for Kugelgelenk Werkzeug
I found this
which is exactly what i used
Aber mein deutsch ist sehr schlecht... I'm sure you could find a balljoint press on amazon.de and search for Kugelgelenk Werkzeug
I found this
http://www.amazon.de/Werkzeug-Kugelgelenk-Traggelenk-Ausdr%C3%BCcker-Abzieher/dp/B009VZCUEY/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1384357083&sr=8-9&keywords=Kugelgelenk+Werkzeug
which is exactly what i used
#22
Remember that you are not saving the old rubber bushings. Abuse, drill, heat, and/or collapse the outer steel shell with a punch or chisel and they come right out.
A proper ball joint C-Clamp type press is a great aid for removal and especially installation of the BJ's. Avoid the $60 that looks like a real one. In this tool, quality matters greatly. Get a name brand tool. OTC, Snap-on, MAc, Matco, something like that.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAC-TOOLS-BA...3e7ff1&vxp=mtr
Dirt Cheap SNAP-ON unit
worn and used... BECAUSE IT WORKS. Always a good clue when buying used tools. The pretty new looking air tool.... works like a Chinee POS..... get the beat up ugly one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-mast...35b6c7&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OTC-7249-Bal...953622&vxp=mtr
A proper ball joint C-Clamp type press is a great aid for removal and especially installation of the BJ's. Avoid the $60 that looks like a real one. In this tool, quality matters greatly. Get a name brand tool. OTC, Snap-on, MAc, Matco, something like that.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAC-TOOLS-BA...3e7ff1&vxp=mtr
Dirt Cheap SNAP-ON unit
worn and used... BECAUSE IT WORKS. Always a good clue when buying used tools. The pretty new looking air tool.... works like a Chinee POS..... get the beat up ugly one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-mast...35b6c7&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OTC-7249-Bal...953622&vxp=mtr
Last edited by Octania; November 13th, 2013 at 09:38 AM.
#23
While using the correct tool, as pointed out by Chris, is always the best path, that may not be feasible in Germany. I've replaced many control arm bushings by burning out the rubber with a propane torch first, then simply collapsing the shells with a hammer and chisel. The burning rubber is a smelly, smoky mess, so you might want to consider an alternate method, which is using a drill or a roto-zip tool to cut out the rubber. Once the rubber is gone, the remaining shell is easy to collapse and remove. Be sure the holes in the control arms are free of burrs and rust, apply a little grease, and hammer the new bushings in using a section of thick wall pipe or a large socket to bear on the flange of the bushing. Where the bushing passes through both sides of the control arm (as in the lower control arm bushings), simply cut a length of angle iron (or even wood) to wedge between the ears of the control arm before hammering the bushing in place.
I've found the ball joints to be much easier to R&R. I spaced the jaws of my bench vice apart to support the control arm around the ball joint an used a 5 lb sledge hammer to cause the ball joint to depart. Invert the control arm and use a section of correctly sized pipe to install the new ball joint. This is a pretty easy weekend job.
I've found the ball joints to be much easier to R&R. I spaced the jaws of my bench vice apart to support the control arm around the ball joint an used a 5 lb sledge hammer to cause the ball joint to depart. Invert the control arm and use a section of correctly sized pipe to install the new ball joint. This is a pretty easy weekend job.
#24
Alex, geh mit deinen ausgebauten Querlenkern und den neuen Buchsen zu irgendeiner Werkstatt in deiner Nähe...mittlerweile hat so gut wie jede mindestens eine 20 Tonnen Presse, damit sollte das kein Problem sein, hab das auch schon hinter mit! Vll findest du jemand, ders dir für einen 20er, oder 50er in die Kaffeekasse schnell macht, kommt alles billiger als Werkzeuge kaufen! Wenn du in meiner Nähe wärst, würde ich dir auch helfen!
Sry for writing in german guys
Edit: This will be my last post until I have my 455
Sry for writing in german guys
Edit: This will be my last post until I have my 455
Last edited by dancutlass; November 13th, 2013 at 11:09 AM.
#25
Yes, I would think a local shop with a press should be able to help, too.
But, remember, if you do buy the tools, you will have them forever, and may be ar to lend them out to friends or others.
I think Joe said it well, though - you should be able to get this done without special tools with a bit of work.
- Eric
But, remember, if you do buy the tools, you will have them forever, and may be ar to lend them out to friends or others.
I think Joe said it well, though - you should be able to get this done without special tools with a bit of work.
- Eric
#26
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
If the local shops are anything for charges like they are here, that's an easy 250.00 job - not coffee money. That's why I love the Advance/Partsource free tool loaner program. Ball joints and bushing made easy! Oh, air tools also help a lot.
#31
so work is nearly done but as i pulled put the right lower control arm i sar hat one bushing was hardcore worn, as you can see on the picutes. the new buschings will not fit in there perfect.
Any suggestions how to fix that ? Pressing bushing in and welding it ?
Any suggestions how to fix that ? Pressing bushing in and welding it ?
#32
i d just dublechecked summit they have this dorman part:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-520-118
they told its not for a 73 delta 88 bit ist looks on lic similar to mine
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-520-118
they told its not for a 73 delta 88 bit ist looks on lic similar to mine
#33
That control arm will absolutely not fit your car.
When I've had control arms like yours, I've thrown them out and gotten new ones at the junkyard. I've never heard of anyone trying to fix them.
Why not just buy one from someone in the US?
- Eric
When I've had control arms like yours, I've thrown them out and gotten new ones at the junkyard. I've never heard of anyone trying to fix them.
Why not just buy one from someone in the US?
- Eric
#35
hey Eric
this is one for a 72 does u know weather it matches a 73 ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Chevy-Bu...b04c5e&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-72-Buic...-/200572218590
for me it seems matching also the little hook on the on end has the same shape link mine ...
but these are A Body right ? and my 73 delta 88 is a B Body
this is one for a 72 does u know weather it matches a 73 ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Chevy-Bu...b04c5e&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-72-Buic...-/200572218590
for me it seems matching also the little hook on the on end has the same shape link mine ...
but these are A Body right ? and my 73 delta 88 is a B Body
Last edited by delta_88_germany; March 15th, 2014 at 03:00 AM.
#36
According to the 1975 Parts Manual, the correct number for a RH lower control arm for 1971-'75 is 343540, but according to the 1972 Parts Manual, the correct number is 3964062 for '71-'72 and 325834 for '73.
This means that these should fit your car, but $300.00 ?!?
Last time I bought one, it was $10 at the junk yard.
- Eric
This means that these should fit your car, but $300.00 ?!?
Last time I bought one, it was $10 at the junk yard.
- Eric
#37
hey
i am confused the part no on ebay is 3964062 i have a 73 one so these would not it or is there any note that all these three numbers are the same parts ?
i tried to find a number on my old one but only fund a stamp that says "S14 F3"
alex
i am confused the part no on ebay is 3964062 i have a 73 one so these would not it or is there any note that all these three numbers are the same parts ?
i tried to find a number on my old one but only fund a stamp that says "S14 F3"
alex
Last edited by delta_88_germany; March 15th, 2014 at 03:50 AM.
#38
Okay, you have to use logic with these sorts of parts interchange questions:
In 1972, GM said that '71 to '72 B- and C-bodies got the 3964062, but '73s got the 325834, but,
in 1975, GM said that ALL B-and C-bodies from '71 to '75 got the 343540.
That means that the earlier numbers were superseded by the later number, and also that the basic dimensions of the part are the same, as a single part (the 343540) will fit all of these cars.
It does not absolutely guarantee that any arm from a '71 or a '73 will fit any of the other cars, but, in the case of simple parts like this, it makes it extremely likely.
Unless someone else here can cite specifically that some of these years do not interchange, you should be able to use a right lower control arm from any 1971 to 1975 Olds Delta or 98, and, seeing that the same arm is listed on eBay for Buicks, and according to my sometimes-imperfect memory, you should also be able to use an arm from an7 '71-'75 Chevy Impala or Caprice, Pontiac GrandAm or, ummmm, whatever else their full-size was, or Buick Electra or their other full-size model (sorry, it's early here).
Look for US junkyards with web sites, especially ones in the desert, where there's lots of space and little rust. You should be able to find one cheap. If in doubt, have them check their Hollander guide, which tells exactly which parts interchange with which.
- Eric
In 1972, GM said that '71 to '72 B- and C-bodies got the 3964062, but '73s got the 325834, but,
in 1975, GM said that ALL B-and C-bodies from '71 to '75 got the 343540.
That means that the earlier numbers were superseded by the later number, and also that the basic dimensions of the part are the same, as a single part (the 343540) will fit all of these cars.
It does not absolutely guarantee that any arm from a '71 or a '73 will fit any of the other cars, but, in the case of simple parts like this, it makes it extremely likely.
Unless someone else here can cite specifically that some of these years do not interchange, you should be able to use a right lower control arm from any 1971 to 1975 Olds Delta or 98, and, seeing that the same arm is listed on eBay for Buicks, and according to my sometimes-imperfect memory, you should also be able to use an arm from an7 '71-'75 Chevy Impala or Caprice, Pontiac GrandAm or, ummmm, whatever else their full-size was, or Buick Electra or their other full-size model (sorry, it's early here).
Look for US junkyards with web sites, especially ones in the desert, where there's lots of space and little rust. You should be able to find one cheap. If in doubt, have them check their Hollander guide, which tells exactly which parts interchange with which.
- Eric
#39
hey eric,
thanks for your help. now i understand ist :-)
i just bought the NOS on ebay for 230 this is in pretty good quality and i found thers for 60 uss but in a verry rusted conditions.
to sen dit over germany i have to pay 150 in shipping so i rather invest a bit more to get one in a nice shape than in these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-81-CAMARO...item43b9afbfa1
so now iam waiting for it :-)
i sadly parked my car near to the garagewall on the driver side so i cant du this side while waiting :-(
alex
thanks for your help. now i understand ist :-)
i just bought the NOS on ebay for 230 this is in pretty good quality and i found thers for 60 uss but in a verry rusted conditions.
to sen dit over germany i have to pay 150 in shipping so i rather invest a bit more to get one in a nice shape than in these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-81-CAMARO...item43b9afbfa1
so now iam waiting for it :-)
i sadly parked my car near to the garagewall on the driver side so i cant du this side while waiting :-(
alex
#40
"70-81 CAMARO TRANS AM PASSENGER SIDE LOWER CONTROL A ARM"
WHAT?!?
NO! That's not right.
That's a control arm for a Camaro / Firebird. Those are essentially X-body cars.
They're small cars. You have a big car.
These are completely different.
You need a control arm for a '71-'75 B- or C-body.
Sorry.
- Eric
WHAT?!?
NO! That's not right.
That's a control arm for a Camaro / Firebird. Those are essentially X-body cars.
They're small cars. You have a big car.
These are completely different.
You need a control arm for a '71-'75 B- or C-body.
Sorry.
- Eric