Rear Lower Control Arm Relocation Brakets
October 31st, 2011, 04:34 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bullard TX
Posts: 55
Rear Lower Control Arm Relocation Brakets
I wanted to see if anyone had these installed? Do they really make a difference/worth the time and money. I have the body off the frame and the frame is about to get powder coated, so now is the time to get this done if it's worth while.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...products_id=29
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...products_id=29
November 14th, 2011, 07:12 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 231
My $.02 on the relocation brackets is if you will be doing mostly street driving, don't use brackets that have to be welded in and are permanent. I had these relocation brackets from METCO in my 65
http://www.metcomotorsports.com/prod...p?prod=MIC0009
They are a bolt in brackets designed to be used with their arms. They do work. They plant the tires and are a huge improvement over no suspension tuning on a stock style chassis. They do have trade offs when it comes to street driving. They tend to keep the rear of the car raised and pre-loaded as long as you are in the gas. Ride quality suffers due to the pre-loaded state. Simple things like turning left at a stop sign feel odd as the torque of the engine will twist slightly as the car raises causing you to feel a roll sensation. I took mine off due to the fact that I still have not made it to the track and I love to drive this car anywhere I can. Since I removed the brackets and drag radials traction is a distant memory of days past. It just spins and spins lol
http://www.metcomotorsports.com/prod...p?prod=MIC0009
They are a bolt in brackets designed to be used with their arms. They do work. They plant the tires and are a huge improvement over no suspension tuning on a stock style chassis. They do have trade offs when it comes to street driving. They tend to keep the rear of the car raised and pre-loaded as long as you are in the gas. Ride quality suffers due to the pre-loaded state. Simple things like turning left at a stop sign feel odd as the torque of the engine will twist slightly as the car raises causing you to feel a roll sensation. I took mine off due to the fact that I still have not made it to the track and I love to drive this car anywhere I can. Since I removed the brackets and drag radials traction is a distant memory of days past. It just spins and spins lol
November 14th, 2011, 07:56 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bullard TX
Posts: 55
My $.02 on the relocation brackets is if you will be doing mostly street driving, don't use brackets that have to be welded in and are permanent. I had these relocation brackets from METCO in my 65
http://www.metcomotorsports.com/prod...p?prod=MIC0009
They are a bolt in brackets designed to be used with their arms. They do work. They plant the tires and are a huge improvement over no suspension tuning on a stock style chassis. They do have trade offs when it comes to street driving. They tend to keep the rear of the car raised and pre-loaded as long as you are in the gas. Ride quality suffers due to the pre-loaded state. Simple things like turning left at a stop sign feel odd as the torque of the engine will twist slightly as the car raises causing you to feel a roll sensation. I took mine off due to the fact that I still have not made it to the track and I love to drive this car anywhere I can. Since I removed the brackets and drag radials traction is a distant memory of days past. It just spins and spins lol
http://www.metcomotorsports.com/prod...p?prod=MIC0009
They are a bolt in brackets designed to be used with their arms. They do work. They plant the tires and are a huge improvement over no suspension tuning on a stock style chassis. They do have trade offs when it comes to street driving. They tend to keep the rear of the car raised and pre-loaded as long as you are in the gas. Ride quality suffers due to the pre-loaded state. Simple things like turning left at a stop sign feel odd as the torque of the engine will twist slightly as the car raises causing you to feel a roll sensation. I took mine off due to the fact that I still have not made it to the track and I love to drive this car anywhere I can. Since I removed the brackets and drag radials traction is a distant memory of days past. It just spins and spins lol
November 14th, 2011, 07:59 PM
#4
i might be wrong but the umi brackets have diffent holes for diffrent settings . its got stock 1 inch and 2 inch down i think. Im getting these for my olds i had the edelbrock anti hop bars and loved them it had no impact on handling or street manners . The only downside was that the downard force on the rear end hosing bent the axle and axle tube im my experience atleast.
November 14th, 2011, 08:30 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bullard TX
Posts: 55
i might be wrong but the umi brackets have diffent holes for diffrent settings . its got stock 1 inch and 2 inch down i think. Im getting these for my olds i had the edelbrock anti hop bars and loved them it had no impact on handling or street manners . The only downside was that the downard force on the rear end hosing bent the axle and axle tube im my experience atleast.
November 14th, 2011, 09:06 PM
#6
im sorry i dont. They mount between the upper control arm and rear end pumpkin area . they move the upper control arms up about 4 to 5 inches. it also replaces upper rear end bushing to alumium. if you go on lakewood or edelbrocks site it shows you how they look.
November 14th, 2011, 11:32 PM
#7
Ben
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 1,827
I had the UMI relocation brackets on my 68 elcamino.
They bolt on the rear axle housing where the lower rear control arms attach to it.
They have 2 new mounting positions starting about 2" below the original.
The brackets basically turn factory lower control arms into the old Lift bars.
They did seem to work pretty good.. but things to keep in mind. You won't be able to run the factory rear sway bar if you have one... it will now hang down way too far due to the angle of the rear control arms.
The stuff that Bill mentioned i found to be true as well. Not a big deal, but there was some noticeable differences in street behaviour. Although i only drove it with them in the lowest position. I had always meant to try the middle setting, but never got around to it before i sold the car.
If you watch my video in my sig line, you can see how hard the shock to the rear tires was when i started the burnout- the car acutally bounces when it starts as the suspension unloads. Really too much.. but at the power level i was at, i didn't have any wheelspin off the line w/ drag radials so i was ok with it.
Personally if i were to do it again, i think I would skip the relocation bracksts and focus on better adjustable components.
They bolt on the rear axle housing where the lower rear control arms attach to it.
They have 2 new mounting positions starting about 2" below the original.
The brackets basically turn factory lower control arms into the old Lift bars.
They did seem to work pretty good.. but things to keep in mind. You won't be able to run the factory rear sway bar if you have one... it will now hang down way too far due to the angle of the rear control arms.
The stuff that Bill mentioned i found to be true as well. Not a big deal, but there was some noticeable differences in street behaviour. Although i only drove it with them in the lowest position. I had always meant to try the middle setting, but never got around to it before i sold the car.
If you watch my video in my sig line, you can see how hard the shock to the rear tires was when i started the burnout- the car acutally bounces when it starts as the suspension unloads. Really too much.. but at the power level i was at, i didn't have any wheelspin off the line w/ drag radials so i was ok with it.
Personally if i were to do it again, i think I would skip the relocation bracksts and focus on better adjustable components.
Last edited by RAMBOW; November 14th, 2011 at 11:37 PM.
November 15th, 2011, 04:10 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bullard TX
Posts: 55
That's the plan. I'm not done with the rear axle yet, but the plan is to get Global West Upper adjustable control arms, lower control arms, Strange adjustable stocks, haven't decided on springs or sway bar. Most likely GW for both. I really don't want to lower the rear too much. I plan on running a 28.5in rear tire around 12in wide.
November 15th, 2011, 11:36 PM
#9
Ben
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 1,827
That's the plan. I'm not done with the rear axle yet, but the plan is to get Global West Upper adjustable control arms, lower control arms, Strange adjustable stocks, haven't decided on springs or sway bar. Most likely GW for both. I really don't want to lower the rear too much. I plan on running a 28.5in rear tire around 12in wide.
November 27th, 2011, 08:39 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bullard TX
Posts: 55
That's a good looking set. Not to open too much of a debate, but what's the advantage of boxed over tubular? I've always thought tubular was stronger.
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