Here's an "experience" question for you guys:

Has anyone tried to remove a rear lower control (trailing) arm for service without actually pulling the rear?

I've pulled a whole rear (ONCE!) in my Chevelle, 30 years ago, and it was, shall I say, a pain in the @$$.

I need to get the lower arms off so that I can drill them for a sway bar for my '73 Delta. Now, before you get into boxed vs unboxed, etc., let me tell you that the '71-up B-bodies are an entirely different animal from the A-bodies when it comes to the rear sway bar. The arms were never boxed. Instead, there is a mounting bracket that "completes" the box by forming a U-shape that is upside-down with respect to the U-shape of the control arm. That bracket is held in by four bolts, two on each side, that thread directly into the bracket (no nuts), and the holes have to be just the right size and in just the right place, and there's no room to swing a drill around under the car, so the arms have to come out.

So, I believe that I can jack up the rear of the car, so that the rear end hangs, jack the rear under the LCA mounting tab, to relieve stress, remove the front LCA bolt, then relax and remove the jack to gain access to the real nut and bolt, remove them, and remove the arm, then reverse the procedure to install, using the jack against the mount to align the front mounting bolt.

Anyone done this before? Any suggestions?
I am NOT removing the rear at this point, so if there is a reason why this CAN'T be done, I will just wait for another time.

Thanks,

- Eric

 

the only thing that sucks is when you hang the rear end is that it wil tilt just enough to be a real p.i.t.a to bolt back up. I remember when i took the rear end out of the cutlass in my parents one car garage now that was fun lol. I had to have our neighboor help me put it back in because i could not hold the rear end up high enough to alignt the bolt holes. when i boxed my lower control arms i did the same thing you are trying to do. It can be done but to bolt it up you might need a friend or a ratchet strap to just pull the rear end to where it will lign up with the bolt holes.

 

I've removed a lot of rear ends but never done just the lower arms. In fact I install the lower arms first, then the uppers when putting it back in. But I don't see any reason you couldn't. Having it roll like coppercutlass commented may cause the re-install to be a pain. How about leaving it on the ground and jacking up the body to take the pressure off the arms? If that would work, then your housing will stay put while you remove and work on the arms. Although you may need a lot of reach on your jack to get the body up high enough to take the pressure off the suspension. Just thinking out loud.....


John

 

Thanks, guys.
When I get around to this, I'll give the ratchet strap from the rear to a frame member idea a try (or maybe a cable come-along I've got in the barn). It makes sense, and that twisting is exactly what I was worried might keep me from getting it to make up again.

- Eric

 

if you have a spare jack you can put one with a 2x4 right underneath the front right by the yoke and that would also prevent the rolling but you will still need to keep it from trying to swing backwards so the strap will help that out .

 

I did it easily on my Cutlass one arm at a time, hopefully it would be just as easy on your Delta. I assume it uses the same 4 link suspension setup.
Here is how I did it...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/chassis-body-frame/22397-lady-s-rear-enhancements.html#post167875\

BTW, you could always remove the rear diff to clean it and repaint it, too. Change those nasty upper bushings and.................

 

Why couldn't you remove, drill, and re-install 1 at a time?

 

Thanks, Rob, I'd forgotten about that thread!

And OldCutlass, yes, I was planning on doing one at a time - I guess I didn't make that clear.

- Eric

 

I've done it several times. It's all about the placement of the jack to stop it from rolling down. You might have to position it forward more on the pinion snout rather than right under the cover.

 

Im doing my control trailing arms next weekend.

One at a time.... Now im worried i'll never get them lined up...

 

when I was working on the differential I made a basket or carrier for it basically like a picnic bench with crossed legs to support the outer tubers, you can then put a cross brace between the two sets of legs and you can rest the nose of the diff there.

the basket is raised with the floor jack, just some thoughts on what I did.... that said I do not have the rear in yet, I put the tires on and placed each one on a movers dolly from Harbor freight so I can move the rear in and out while I am finishing the underside.

 

It's easy Tony. Just have a persuasion device (hammer) and a long narrow drift to line up the holes. You can do it with a screwdriver also but I prefer the drift. Once you get the bolt started you're home free. At worst you'll have to screw it into the second hole but a good tap on the head of the bolt usually lines it all up. I would suggest putting the frame side in first. It's much easier to work with than the axle end. I was lucky in that I kept the sway bar attached and it all fell into place but you'll of course have to disconnect yours. Either way it will be an experience.

 

Cool! thanks for the advice, will do with the drift, i have one handy somewhere in my box-of-stuff.

I'm not installing a sway bar, i got the bushings on sale at crock-auto and im going to remove the old arms, clean them, paint them, bushings and re-install.

Im more worred about the differential crashing down on my when i remove the control arm.......

So, i jack the frame, not the diff, right?

 

No put the jack under the diff and take the weight off the shocks. I would put the car on jack stands. Also, if you leave the drive shaft connected and for some reason the diff rotates and pulls the yoke out of the trans you're going to have a mess. It's best to disconnect the drive shaft and let it sit on the ground. Two jacks are helpful if you get into a spot.

 

Done this many times, no issues. Yes, support the weight of the car on the springs (jack stands under the axle tubes) and don't worry about anything else. Use a floor jack under the nose of the diff if you need to tilt up or down for final alignment of the bolt holes. If the weight of the car is on the springs, and you do one side at a time, there is NO WAY that you'll pull the driveshaft out of the trans.

Oh, and you MIGHTASWELL replace the bushings while the arms are out.

Oh, and you MIGHTASWELL have the arms powdercoated while the bushings are out.

Oh, and you now see how my simple repairs turn into body-off projects...

 

Thanks, George.

I hadn't thought of jacking it near the pinion.
I can see as how that would work well.

And don't worry Tony - you'll get it back together - one way or another...

- Eric

 

If you do one arm at a time, it will not crash down. The springs are holding the weight. Back up on ramps like I did. With CA bolts in, nuts almost off, stratigically attempt to drive foward up on a small wood block (on the ramp in front of the wheel on the side you are working on) just enough for the engine torque to **** the axle just right, then set the park brake. You can then just pop the bolts out with your fingers and the arm will just fall off.
Pounding the bolts in and out can work but why damage them and do more work than needed? Let the car do the work.

 

Wow! I hadn't seen all the other posts in between my responses.

Looks like a popular thread!

Thanks, all - you've answered MY questions .

- Eric

 

Im REALLY only planning on removing the two lower arms.... no frame off...

Unless i drop the diff to give it a coat of paint....

 

Hey Joe,

I've already dropped the tank, undercoated it, changed the fuel sender. Last ugly part of my rear is the control arms.

I've already removed the shocks so i could paint the diff after wirebrushing it.

I'm probably going to pain the arms, powdercoating is too rich for my blood up in these parts.

 

Have a pic? Curious as i dont recall ever seeing one.

 

Yeah, but it's on my computer at home - I can post some tonight.

- Eric

 

Tony, that's not what your better half says!!!! J/K sorry couldn't help it.....

 

I bet those upper CA's are even uglier than the lowers. Better do them, too.

 

Did any of you change out the Grade 8 1/2-13 bolts when installing your CA's? I am thinking about a set of stainless from the hardware store because the original style from Fusick or YearOne will be like $100 for a set of 12. I did notice that the original bolts have a slightly larger shoulder right at the base of the bolt head. Not sure the purpose.

 

Use grade 8 - not stainless. Typical stainless from the hardware store is not as hard as 8. I subbed in stainless on a pool filter once and stripped it like chinesium...

 

So grade 8 zinc plated? Does the 2 step shoulder do anything special?

 

Yes, it distributes the forces more evenly to the mounting tabs.

GM used those bolts for a reason. Do not substitute crap, or you will be sorry.

You do not have to buy new ones from Fusick - just replace your bad ones with a few from a junkyard, or from folks on this forum.

- Eric

ps: Just realized I never posted those photos of the sway bat that I said I'd post.
Here they are:

 

i removed mine one at a time without jacking the car or taking the wheel off. i set the park brake, chocked the wheel on both sides of the tire so there was no chance it would move either forward or backwards and then undid the bolts fore and aft and just dropped it down. when you,re done with the first one, reinstall it and then move to the second one. worked great!! hope this helps

 

This story ends here.

It turns out that I did not need to remove the lower control arms in order to attach the sway bar brackets, after all - there is just enough space if you remove the tire and disconnect the shock at the bottom. It's easier to do on a lift, but should not be a nightmare to do flat on the ground.

- Eric

 

you can order strong stainless bolts from companies like fastenal. Tell them what you need and they can help... with stainless make sure you use never sieze or you may gall the threads! then you are in trouble! Don't torque a lubricated bolt as much as a non lubricated one!

 

Thanks for the link to Ladies thread... will be redoing the rearend this fall/winter. MAW do the rear disc brakes so I don't crush that little smart car in front of me!!!! and the boxed control arms and the sway bar.... Where do you get those MAW helmets from?