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I used my OPGI points and a gift certificate to buy some of the OPGI control arms!
I know a lot of people say to change the ball joints that come with them. What ones should I use? Stock? Different? The lower control arms are staying stock. My spindles are stock. My Sway Bar is stock. My shocks and springs are stock. I read someone say there is a taller or shorter ball joint that works better than original? Does that require changes to anything else?
Once I put on the control are what are the Specs I should use? If anyone else has done this, what is the good starting point for spacers fore and aft? Can someone count theirs and I will set mine up that way just to get it to the alignment shop.
1970 Olds 442, W30, stock suspension. No lowering, stock rims.
Are the OPGI upper arms stock length? If so, you could use a stock height upper ball joint or maybe a 0.5" taller unit.
If the OPGI upper arms are shorter, then I suggest using tall upper ball joints to help improve the camber curve, 0.5" at least and maybe 0.9".
How much room do you have between your stock upper ball joint and the rim?
OPGI describes them like this...
Precision engineered tubular control arms feature improved geometry over stock equipment while also allowing for additional wheel clearance without rubbing. Changes to both camber and caster reduce bump steer, provide better handling, and maintain a larger contact patch where your tire meets the pavement. Stronger than factory replacements, these arms are ideal for street, strip, and autocross. The TIG welded arms have reinforced bushing tubes, bump stops, and Delrin/Aluminum bushings preinstalled. Upper arms will include the billet cross-shaft, while lower arms have sway bar end links pre-installed.
So I am guessing that they are NOT stock dimensions.
And if you want to improve handling a little bit more (and lower it 0.5"), you could also put 0.5" taller ball joints in the factory lower control arms, but it's not necessary. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...elle/year/1969
Once I put on the control are what are the Specs I should use? If anyone else has done this, what is the good starting point for spacers fore and aft? Can someone count theirs and I will set mine up that way just to get it to the alignment shop.
Nick has you covered on the other questions, so as far as specs, you want about 0.5 deg of negative camber, about 6 deg of positive caster (or as much as possible with the arms if they can't get that high), and about 1/16" of inward toe. Toe can be changed quite a bit more if looking to really dial it in for track or autocross, but for the street, that should work. Same with camber - if you are tracking/autocrossing, you may want more negative, but for the street, -0.5 deg should work.
Note: no one can help you with alignment shims. Every single car is different and what works on one, may not work on another. In fact, what works on one side of your car may not work on the other. Case in point: I have UMI's adjustable upper arms. My driver's side has an entirely different number of turns on the rod ends than the passenger AND the passenger still required shims to get the alignment correct. The most important thing to get correct to get you to the alignment shop is to get the toe right. If the wheels are pointing out, it can make the car scary as hell to drive. You can align that with tape measures. If you have an angle finder or one of those vertical laser levels and a tape measure, you can get your camber in the ballpark. Or you can buy yourself the tools and align it yourself. Takes bit of patience, but really isn't hard to do.
Last edited by Bubba68CS; Jul 2, 2023 at 07:02 AM.
And if you want to improve handling a little bit more (and lower it 0.5"), you could also put 0.5" taller ball joints in the factory lower control arms, but it's not necessary. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...elle/year/1969
Lower is not an option. I have some aftermarket ceramic headers that sit very low and even the easiest driveway seems to scrape them!
The new arms have arrived. They look very well made. I THINK that they came with taller ball joints but I am still going to order better tall ones. Is there only that one vendor?
RideTech, SPC, and some others have them. You can do a search on Summit Racing and then read the details for each one, if they are stock length or extended. I doubt most of them actually manufacture their own, though. I would just go with Proforged since it's reasonably priced and known to be reliable.
Installed the arms and new taller ball joints this weekend. I have not had it aligned yet but I noticed a huge improvement over how it was steering and cornering before!
I put aftermarket control arms on my car as well with taller upper ball joints. The original control arms had new ball joints and the car always handled good for an old car but with the new arms and taller ball joints with no front sway is better than before. The added bonus for me was was more room for 2 inch headers.
I put aftermarket control arms on my car as well with taller upper ball joints. The original control arms had new ball joints and the car always handled good for an old car but with the new arms and taller ball joints with no front sway is better than before. The added bonus for me was was more room for 2 inch headers.
yup. The control arms don’t hit my passenger side header anymore. You can see the dents
Reviving an old thread here since lots of the info above is related and relevant. So I was going to purchase the UMI upper and lower control arms for my 70 Supreme with the taller BJs (.9" uppers and .5" lowers) but noticed in their online add for the kit the lowers no longer mentioned the .5" taller BJs or the 1/2" drop. I called UMI and they said because Proforged stopped making the .5" taller lower BJs and they can't find anyone else making them, they no longer offer the lower arms with the tall BJs and 1/2" drop.
I may still get the kit for the .9" taller uppers and just get the "standard" lowers but my question is, does anyone know of a replacement .5" taller lower BJ since the Proforged aren't being made anymore? I'm guessing if UMI can't find a replacement there isn't one but hoping that's not the case.
Yeah no issues with the uppers. UMI claims there are no .5" taller BJs for the lowers because proforged stopped making them and there are no others available.
I'm in the same sitch, right now. My tall Proforged have proven to be the junk that they are. I currently have a 1/2" rake and don't want to raise the front. I've heard that the Howe, while rebuildable, will wear quickly during street use.
I think I'm leaning towards aftermarket drop spindles to maintain the hotrod stance. I've seen some advertised as taller for camber curve improvement. LBJs are going back to Moog .
I am in the middle of installing my upper/lower control arms and springs, all from Hotchkis (good, bad, not sure yet) probably overkill as the car will most likely never be road tracked.
Torque Specs is what I need, all new steering linkage. I'm getting tired of searching for '71 w-30 numbers. Found these numbers on OLDSmobility, but thinking they are for the previous generation, link = http://www.oldsmobility.com/old/torquespecs.htm
Arm to frame(2) - 35 ft/lbs
Idler Arm to Center Link - 35 ft/lbs
Pitman Arm to Center Link - 35 ft/lbs
Pitman Arm to Steering Box - 140 ft/lbs
Tie Rod Sleeve Clamps(4) - 20 ft/lbs
Tie Rod End Nuts(2) - 50 ft/lbs
Inner Tie Rod End to Center Link - 40 ft/lbs
Lower Control Arm Bolts - 70-90 ft/lbs
Steering Knuckle Arm to Steering Knuckle, upper (1) - 125 ft/lbs
Those are probably all good torque numbers, I've never used any of them. I tighten all those to the German spec of gudntite and then insert the cotter pins. I want to make sure all taper fit joints are secure.
Should be easy enough, as there are three German cars in my stable. Plus, never torqued suspension goodies decades ago when I worked on cars for a living (collision and paint).
The Howe ball joints are rebuildable and can also be tightened as they wear. Most of our cars don't see "daily drive" type mileage so the wear comment may not be a concern. Howe sells the housings separately from the studs and the lower ball joint studs come in various lengths from .1" to .5" in .1" increments.
Rodney
The Howe ball joints are rebuildable and can also be tightened as they wear. Most of our cars don't see "daily drive" type mileage so the wear comment may not be a concern. Howe sells the housings separately from the studs and the lower ball joint studs come in various lengths from .1" to .5" in .1" increments.
Rodney
I'm aware of their rebuildabity, but i think swapping standard Moogs would be easier. I'm definitely leaning toward drop spindles.
I just got off the phone with Ramey from UMI and brought up the Howe lower BJs. He said they don't work for their lower arms because they don't have serrated grooves like the Proforged BJs. He said the serrated groves "bite" when being pressed vs the Howe that are smooth.
