Hey all,

Replacing steering linkage in 76 Cutlass. All is together except the center link won't go all the way into the idler arm... Perhaps an 1/8 inch of shaft showing at the bottom. Bolt is tight. Can't get the cotter pin in I think because there's not enough of the hole exposed yet. Any ideas? Perhaps its supposed to be a tight fit but not that tight? I even hit it with my electric impact but it didn't draw it together any more. Thought about maybe using a c-clamp to see if I could squeeze them together any more.

I already have the tie rod ends connected, so wondering if maybe there's a side force or something preventing it from slipping in but seems unlikely. All the parts were bought from rock auto and claim to be for 76 Cutlass. Both the idler and center link are Delphi. (Idler is TA5377 and center link is TL2044.

Thanks for any thoughts!

 

Weren’t there 2 different angle holes drilled in these early on?
I had to buy a correctly tapered bit and drill one out.

Do some research.

 

Not by 1976

 

Look there are only two possible reasons why these parts won't go together. 1) there is debris between the stud and the tapered hole that is preventing the stud from fully seating, or 2) the parts are machined incorrectly. The part numbers you have listed cross over to the OEM part numbers, so ASSUMING they were boxed correctly, that isn't the problem. Debris is the most common problem. Disassemble the parts and ensure there is nothing inside the tapered hole preventing them from seating. Assuming this is the case, then carefully measure the tapered stud and the hole. You will need calipers at a minimum to do this. Hopefully you still have the old parts to compare the measurements to (this is yet another good reason why you never get rid of the old parts until the job is done). While improperly machined parts are unusual, they are not impossible. I had a replacement ball joint with an improperly machined stud a few years ago. I was able to compare measurements with the old parts to prove that. And while it shouldn't matter, connecting the tie rods AFTER bolting the center link to the idler and pitman arms is a good idea. At a minimum, loosen the idler arm to frame bolts to give you a little play. That final torquing is supposed to be done after the center link is bolted in place so you can ensure clearance between the center link and the frame crossmember.

 

Thanks all for your thoughts! I was able to get a cotter pin through the hole by using a smaller pin - but it stil doesn't seem quite right given the gap at the bottom, so I will take another look. Such a drag to get back under there and redo things but needs to be right.

Thanks again.

 

Do you have the foam sealing washer that is supposed to go over the tapered shaft before putting it in the idler arm?

 

Not that I am aware - I don't think either the new idler or the new centerlink came with such a washer. I have old parts so in theory I could disassemble but I assume any foam washer will be destroyed by 50 years + pickle fork to get parts apart. Can I buy that foam washer new? Like this maybe?
ACDelco Steering Idler Arm Washer 22754875 22754875 | eBay

 

The new center link should have come with them, as seen in this photo. That's what closes out the gap.

 

Thanks again Joe, see the pic above I just posted. Doesn't look like a foam washer is there to me. Just a rubber grease seal/boot?

 

The boot takes the place of the washer. I think you're fine.

 

You would know! Thanks much!

 

I know now that the center link foam washer is ok. That’s what I found on the Proforged. Below that is the Kanter unit with rubber boot. Will the boot outperform the washer? I mainly want the one that fits best.



Proforged foam washer.

Kanter boot.

 

A few year back I installed a Moog center link that was not formed correctly.
I could not get it into Pitman Arm. It took three to find one that fit.
1969 Cutlass