I found this issue yesterday when changing the front anti sway bar bushings and links.
The Ball joint fastener was loose at the drag link where the tie rod connects. Had the cotter key through the hex nut. The nut was quite loose.
Did someone not tighten enough at one time?
I just put new tires on this week and I’m also going to change the upper A arm ball joints and bushings, just did new front shocks.

What issues would this cause if it didn’t catch it? I had an alignment done less than year ago, nothing was said. The front tires had some cupping on them. I was also getting some vibrations around 65-70 mph. I That it was the 10 yr old TAs on it causing issues.

I tightened up the nut with a new cotter pin. Nice and tight now.

 

You need to inspect the tie rod end and the mating tapered hole in the drag link for wear.

 

I tightened it, absolutely no movement now.
I think that will be another project to replace all the steering components. Idler arms , drag link, tie rods, etc.
It just keeps going… never an end with old cars.

 

So I bought all new steering parts as i decided I’m going to replace the idler arm, both inner and outter tie rods and drag link.
Currently the front wheels are texting on 6x6 blocks. I counted threads on the existing rods. Not sure if the new rods are the same thread length.
Any ideas to make this job go easier ?? I want to be close with the alignment.
I’m still going to get the front aligned when done.
I have ball joint pickle forks and ball joint removal tool set.

 

Measure the center to center distance from the inboard to outboard tie rod end ball joints and set the new parts to that dimension. Center the sleeve on the threads. If you have new sleeves as well as tie rod ends you can just set the new parts to match the length of the old ones.

 

Yes I have new sleeves as well. I put in the new grease fittings and can measure from them. I was thinking of pulling the old ones off as a unit and compare lengths. Set the new ones to match. That should get me pretty close.

 

This is how I did it.

 

^^ x3...

 

Thanks everyone for the info.

 

Hang on to the old parts.
1. they are most likely USA made and may be rebuildable.
2. Dont toss until you are sure everything is right and the car aligns properly. You may need to use the old parts to compare if something goes wrong.