Ok now iam half way done with my front end rebuild kit i used tie rod puller to disconect the linkage from the center link just curious when its time to connect the linkage back to the center link do the tie rods need to be pressed back on or will the screw do the job as i tighten it up and for the controll arms i have them off but before i replace bushings how do i remove the long bolt that goes through the top of the controll arms ?

 

ohhhh thats when the fun begins , you will need a BFH , some beer , a vise , a control arm removal tool/press that you can rent at the local auto store and get your money back when done , and Rob's detailed thread on how easy this is ... when your knocking/pressing one of the control arm bushings out the big bolt will then slide through the big hole you just made .... its a PITA ! I used a big galvinized plumbing pipe that just so happen to fit perfectly on the bushing flange to pound it back in , but getting the first one out is a little tricky.... I will get that link for you ... just look up Lady72nRob71's thread

 

ok thanks but how do i press the the tie rods back on i used a tie rod removal tool to get them off not sure if it will be that easy pressing them back on

 

The slotted hex nuts do all that for you as you tighten each nut to specs. Then simply put a cotter pin through each nut and bend the pins appropriately.

 

the easiest way is to follow his thread "suspension adventure 72 Cutlass" and he has another with a lot of pics and plenty of details ... me ? I just put that galvinized pipe over the flange , and took a sledge and slowly pounded it back in. I would not use to big of sledge or you will bend the flange up like I did and then have to straighten it out or the control arm will bind when you try to move it up and down .... thats why the thread Rob has is good , it shows some other ways to do that without the risk of damage

my bad you are refering to the tie rods , but his thread also covers that portion to

 

X2 this is what I meant

 

To re-reiterate:
Place tie rod tapered shaft in hole, screw nut onto shaft, tighten, place cotter pin in position, and bend.

REMEMBER, the tie rod taper and the hole MUST be perfectly clean - grit and grease-free.
If not, the connection can loosen, causing failure and misfortune.

- Eric

 

Remember to get the right and left handed cotter pins in their respective positions and to use the correct technique when bending them.

Thread the new tie rod ends into the adjusting sleeves the same number of turns as the old ones to keep the toe somewhere near right until you can get it aligned.
Coat the tie rod end threads with a thin film of chassis grease before installing them and it makes them a lot easier to adjust and also keeps the ends from eventually seizing up in the sleeves.
Don't tighten up the control arm shaft end nuts or the lower control attaching nuts and bolts until the car is lowered with it's full weight on the suspension including the engine or the bushings will bind up. Once it's on the ground you jounce the front end a few times to settle everything then tighten them to specs.

 

Actually, Blue may be joking, but he's right.

There's a right and wrong way to bend a cotter pin.

It should be like this (over the shaft, not around the nut):



- Eric

 

You can put the tie rods on when the resto of the suspension is assembled (and wheels still off.
Keep in mind when tightening the tie rod end nuts - you must torque them with a torque wrench. The manual will give a wide range - for a reason. Torque them to the lower number and try to put the pin in. If it is not aligned, keep tightening slowly just until the pin can be inserted. NEVER loosen.

My front end rebuild thread is linked below for reference... Lower bushings were removed somewhat easily, the uppers were a cinch!

Looks like the factory did all mine WRONG!

 

just bend the cotter pin over , good god ! while you're at it ya better change that old air in the tires too actually that does look nice though

 

I never torqued them before either , I just tighten them up so the hole on the bolt for the cotter pin is visible toward the bottom of the crown slot .... you can actually feel it tighten up once its in the right place.... I would not listen to me though it seems I'm like the renegade of car repairs.

 

Damn... I greased my tie rod tapers a bit. Guess will have to remove and wipe clean. Everything is loose right now anyway... well except for my pass. side upper/lower ball joints/tapers which I already torqued.

 

What a coincidence! I did that instinctively. The factory didn't do that though. There is no description on how to do that in the CSM or AM.

72cutlassolds:the specs for torquing your suspension are in the 72 CSM on page 9-8 of this link: http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/membe...Section_9A.pdf