71 C/S Conv Rear Sway Bar Recommendation

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Old Dec 22, 2020 | 04:26 AM
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71 C/S Conv Rear Sway Bar Recommendation

My CS currently does not have a factory rear sway bar. Planning to replace my front bar to a 1.25in bar and install a1.0in bar in the rear. In researching this upgrade I ran into an issue regarding the rear bar. Do I install an aftermarket rear sway bar that unlike the factory bar, attaches to the rear end housing and chassis crossmember. The selling point is that by using the chassis to stabilize the rear axle as opposed to the opposite control arm, this kit is better able to minimize deflection as the car is placed under a heavy cornering load. Does anyone have any experience with this type of aftermarket upgrade? Any thoughts, issues or concerns? Or should I stick with a 1.0in factory bar?
Old Dec 22, 2020 | 05:27 AM
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The reality is that it doesn't matter. What matters is the effective torsional stiffness of the sway bar, and bar diameter is only one variable in that equation. The length of the arms on the bar matter. The stiffness of the mounting points matters. The use of non-metallic links at the ends of the bar matters. More to the point, the A-body cars are understeering pigs. Installing a larger front bar makes this worse (and yes, increasing the roll stiffness at the front limits the A-body camber change, which benefits handling to the extent that you're limiting the amount of damage that the crappy front suspension geometry is doing to your handling). Going as large as possible at the rear bar will make the car far more neutral. Herb Adams used to run up to a 1.5" rear bar on these cars, with a 1.375" front bar. I've got a couple of aftermarket rear bars in the 1.5" size range that mount just like stock.
Old Dec 22, 2020 | 01:12 PM
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Joe really appreciate your response and information. Will follow your advise by going with a 1.5" aftermarket rear bar. How much are you asking?

As some background the 71 CS Conv I had 30 years ago handled much better but never new exactly what I had at the time. The suspension in that car was much stiffer, had a rear sway bar and the stance was higher in rear, with dual exhaust, power windows, and a rebuilt 350. Car was my daily driver and loved every minute of it.

I say all of this as my long term goal with my current car will be to keep as much of it as factory stock but for brakes and suspension. I currently have front disc and rear drum brakes that seem to be fine, single exhaust tucked up under the bumper, but no rear sway bar, TH350 and still have not confirmed rear axel as a 2.56. Eventually plan is to upgrade to clone an SX that is a cruiser. (455,TH400, Dual Exhaust with Bumper). Will take time and money but I am in no rush.

Will not be able to get on road until VA title and tag done on 12/30. So have had limited driving with vehicle but what little I have done it rides like a marsh mellow. My immediate plan is to change all fluids and check radiator - Jan 4th and do a deep dive on the car and drive it. Once I get a few miles on the car I will try and figure out the possible shift linkage issue, which I am hoping only needs some adjustment, then on to the suspension next. Plan here is to install the rear bar (1.5) then change to Heavy Duty w/AC Coil Springs and Shocks.

Any thoughts or comments on my plan and thinking?
Old Dec 22, 2020 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by John Farm
Joe really appreciate your response and information. Will follow your advise by going with a 1.5" aftermarket rear bar. How much are you asking?
Sorry if I gave the wrong impression. The bars I have are already slated for cars that I have.
The large diameter rear bars can be hard to find. I snagged mine on CList (in Fairfax, no less) and at Carlisle. I'm always on the lookout for rear bars over 1".
Hotchkis sells a 1 5/16" rear bar and a 1 1/4" tubular rear bar. Both are axle-mounted. Nolothane sells a 30mm (1 3/16") bar that mounts to the LCAs like factory, if optics matter to you.

Will not be able to get on road until VA title and tag done on 12/30.
How long ago did you ask for an appointment. A friend of mine had a two month wait to be able to register his recently-acquired GMC motorhome. I just saw where the DMV will let you do title and registration by mail now.
Old Dec 22, 2020 | 04:07 PM
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Norm, I guess that it is I who is confused. Appreciate your clarification. I was originally planning to have the metal inserts welded and installed to the lower control arms in either case. Joe's point about making the car far more neutral with a larger aftermarket bar that mounts "just like stock" caused me to think they could be bolted on. I did not connect the dots. Now that I look at your link and your approach used on the Winter Project I have a lot more to think about. Thanks
Old Dec 22, 2020 | 04:13 PM
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You are correct I made the appoint at DMV on December 4th and it is set for February 10th. I had a local car guy point out I could get a much quicker appointment if I went directly to Treasurers office in Fairfax which is set for 12/30. If it gets all done on the 30th I will still have the 2/10 appointment at the Tysons DMV if that can help in any way.
Old Dec 22, 2020 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by John Farm
So have had limited driving with vehicle but what little I have done it rides like a marsh mellow.
I replaced the springs on my car with FE-2 suspension equivalents and have been pleased with the results. Moog 5536 front springs and (I think) 5409 rear springs, along with factory rear sway bar / boxed lower control arms and have been very happy with how it drives and handles. Oh yeah, Monroe-Matic shocks as well.

Last edited by Fun71; Dec 22, 2020 at 06:21 PM.
Old Dec 23, 2020 | 05:08 AM
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Thank you for the input.
Old Dec 23, 2020 | 07:43 AM
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Similar to ken i put moog springs in fr andrear and added thepartsplace 1.25” fr and 1” rear sway bars, i also added the boxed rear lcas and the 4r2 framebraces. It certainly better than itwas.
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