Couple questions for a slightly modified 330
June 3rd, 2014, 06:34 PM
#1
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Couple questions for a slightly modified 330
So, I have been building up my engine a little bit ever since my 67' Cutlass Supreme started spilling fuel through the side of the carburetor....
The most major question I have may be tricky...
I replaced a lot of parts on the motor, and when I went to start it for the first time - I had absolutely no electricity. I know the wiring harness had a lot of terrible connections, and I am waiting on a new one from American Autowire.
Provided that I still have the same problem with the new harness - what would be some routes I could go in order to figure out why I have no electricity whatsoever?
If it helps, I have:
a) changed the starter to a Summit brand starter. The instructions called for eliminating the R terminal wire since it did not have an R terminal.
b) been neglecting to get the battery tested (I am hoping that is the heart of the problem, it has been sitting outside on my back porch)
c) replaced the condenser, cap, and rotor in the distributor with parts from Accel, Accel, and MSD, respectively
d) replaced the voltage regulator with a new, like OEM part
e) replaced the coilpack with a unit from MSD
f) had to fit a coolant/water temp switch/sensor from a 70' Olds 350 to fit the threads of an Edelbrock intake manifold
g) had to break the plastic connecter on the harness into two separate pieces to get the clip on the stock harness to work with the 70' Olds switch
h) spliced a wire from the alternator power wire to the electric choke power terminal on a new Quickfuel carb
Also, I did a bit of diagnosis.
The battery was putting out over 12V. There was power to the alternator, starter, and every wire on the driver's side.
There was no power, however, to the coilpack. There was no power elsewhere in the car.
I am very interested in any suggestions, providing just having a new wiring harness and making sure the battery is truly charged don't solve this.
I was also a bit curious about replacing the exhaust system on my ride - I was curious if the Hooker Competition headers fit well enough with the 67' Cutlass Supreme Sedan with the original Olds 330 and stock 2-speed automatic transmission.
In relation to that question, are H-pipes any better than X-pipes when going to a full dual exhaust system?
(If it matters the bottom end of the motor is stock, it has a single pattern cam with slightly lower lift and slightly higher duration, slightly higher lift combo of rocker arms and push-rods, a Quickfuel 600 cfm Black Diamond series carb, and an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold.)
Any help would be greatly appreciated, I know I am asking about a million questions but any answers would help a newbie out
The most major question I have may be tricky...
I replaced a lot of parts on the motor, and when I went to start it for the first time - I had absolutely no electricity. I know the wiring harness had a lot of terrible connections, and I am waiting on a new one from American Autowire.
Provided that I still have the same problem with the new harness - what would be some routes I could go in order to figure out why I have no electricity whatsoever?
If it helps, I have:
a) changed the starter to a Summit brand starter. The instructions called for eliminating the R terminal wire since it did not have an R terminal.
b) been neglecting to get the battery tested (I am hoping that is the heart of the problem, it has been sitting outside on my back porch)
c) replaced the condenser, cap, and rotor in the distributor with parts from Accel, Accel, and MSD, respectively
d) replaced the voltage regulator with a new, like OEM part
e) replaced the coilpack with a unit from MSD
f) had to fit a coolant/water temp switch/sensor from a 70' Olds 350 to fit the threads of an Edelbrock intake manifold
g) had to break the plastic connecter on the harness into two separate pieces to get the clip on the stock harness to work with the 70' Olds switch
h) spliced a wire from the alternator power wire to the electric choke power terminal on a new Quickfuel carb
Also, I did a bit of diagnosis.
The battery was putting out over 12V. There was power to the alternator, starter, and every wire on the driver's side.
There was no power, however, to the coilpack. There was no power elsewhere in the car.
I am very interested in any suggestions, providing just having a new wiring harness and making sure the battery is truly charged don't solve this.
I was also a bit curious about replacing the exhaust system on my ride - I was curious if the Hooker Competition headers fit well enough with the 67' Cutlass Supreme Sedan with the original Olds 330 and stock 2-speed automatic transmission.
In relation to that question, are H-pipes any better than X-pipes when going to a full dual exhaust system?
(If it matters the bottom end of the motor is stock, it has a single pattern cam with slightly lower lift and slightly higher duration, slightly higher lift combo of rocker arms and push-rods, a Quickfuel 600 cfm Black Diamond series carb, and an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold.)
Any help would be greatly appreciated, I know I am asking about a million questions but any answers would help a newbie out
Last edited by CarCrazyChemist; June 3rd, 2014 at 06:37 PM.
June 3rd, 2014, 07:58 PM
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 71
I will just have to switch to an electrical ignition system (Edit - this isn't a big deal really
I do believe I had power at the purple wire. I will make sure to double check again once I get the battery tested and recharged/replaced.
I do believe I had power at the purple wire. I will make sure to double check again once I get the battery tested and recharged/replaced.
Last edited by CarCrazyChemist; June 3rd, 2014 at 08:05 PM.
June 3rd, 2014, 08:07 PM
#4
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Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,555
Ok, if you have power to the big terminal on the starter and power to the purple wire when the key is selected to start, the starter should crank the engine. If your not getting 12v at the coil you can hook a temporary jumper from the battery pos post to the coil pos post and the car will run. To turn it off, remove the jumper and turn off the key. To get around not having an R terminal wire, you'll need to use a relay to fire your mini starter and supply the 12v to the coil during start.
June 3rd, 2014, 08:33 PM
#5
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 71
Ok, if you have power to the big terminal on the starter and power to the purple wire when the key is selected to start, the starter should crank the engine. If your not getting 12v at the coil you can hook a temporary jumper from the battery pos post to the coil pos post and the car will run. To turn it off, remove the jumper and turn off the key. To get around not having an R terminal wire, you'll need to use a relay to fire your mini starter and supply the 12v to the coil during start.
Do you suppose the plastic connector for the coolant temp switch being split apart (provided both clips still clip on and are insulated) is any issue?
June 4th, 2014, 05:44 AM
#8
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,555
I was also a bit curious about replacing the exhaust system on my ride - I was curious if the Hooker Competition headers fit well enough with the 67' Cutlass Supreme Sedan with the original Olds 330 and stock 2-speed automatic transmission.
There are only a few header co's products that will work on a 67 Cutlass with a SBO, Hookers will not. Kooks and American Racing are 2 that I know of. A lot of people use Thornton exhaust manifolds.
In relation to that question, are H-pipes any better than X-pipes when going to a full dual exhaust system?
(If it matters the bottom end of the motor is stock, it has a single pattern cam with slightly lower lift and slightly higher duration, slightly higher lift combo of rocker arms and push-rods, a Quickfuel 600 cfm Black Diamond series carb, and an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold.)
The H or X pipe consideration is not that big a deal unless your going to seriously race the car. I prefer the H just because the X doesn't sound good to me.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, I know I am asking about a million questions but any answers would help a newbie out
June 4th, 2014, 10:14 AM
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Location: Central Fl
Posts: 7,828
June 4th, 2014, 04:18 PM
#11
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 71
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