Q-Jet Electric choke (specifically 7042250)
#1
Q-Jet Electric choke (specifically 7042250)
Anyone here converted or had converted an original Q-jet to an electric choke? I've come across a couple of them for sale, but haven't found a kit to do it. Anything bad about doing this?
I realized, in a real stroke of brilliance on my part, the edelbrock 2711 intake I bought doesn't have the space for the choke tube. If I end up needing to swap my Q-jet on, I won't be able to because it's set up for the hot air choke system.
Was planning on swapping intakes this weekend, but wondering if instead I should find the more common 3711 intake manifold with egr and choke provisions for future return Qjet if I so choose.
I don't want to spend another afternoon in a month changing intakes because I need the choke tube.
I realized, in a real stroke of brilliance on my part, the edelbrock 2711 intake I bought doesn't have the space for the choke tube. If I end up needing to swap my Q-jet on, I won't be able to because it's set up for the hot air choke system.
Was planning on swapping intakes this weekend, but wondering if instead I should find the more common 3711 intake manifold with egr and choke provisions for future return Qjet if I so choose.
I don't want to spend another afternoon in a month changing intakes because I need the choke tube.
#3
1) Go to RockAuto.com and buy this (Standard Motor Products P/N CV329):
2) Remove the old choke coil. Discard the gasket between the coil and the housing on the carb
3) Install the new electric coil
4) Wire per this thread:
Electric Choke Wiring
5) Enjoy easy starts at any temperature
#4
Yes I've done it and it's extremely easy.
1) Go to RockAuto.com and buy this (Standard Motor Products P/N CV329):
2) Remove the old choke coil. Discard the gasket between the coil and the housing on the carb
3) Install the new electric coil
4) Wire per this thread:
Electric Choke Wiring
5) Enjoy easy starts at any temperature
1) Go to RockAuto.com and buy this (Standard Motor Products P/N CV329):
2) Remove the old choke coil. Discard the gasket between the coil and the housing on the carb
3) Install the new electric coil
4) Wire per this thread:
Electric Choke Wiring
5) Enjoy easy starts at any temperature
#5
The description says they fit carb that originally came with an electric choke, which mine did not. Did this just pop right in? Can't really tell much from the picture. Are there two tabs on the other end, one for a pos one for a negative wire?
#6
Thank you. I did not know they were going to interchange. That's probably the easiest route to go.
The stock OEM intake is almost 50 lbs. The performer is only 18. Not sure how much the performer RPM on there now weighs, but I'll most definitely now just swap the Q-Jet over to an electric choke, should I not be happy with the performance from the 1405 and the performer 3711 intake. Definitely worth it to save the 30+ lbs. Good to know I don't have to go buy the 2711 intake!
#7
to do it right, you'll want to cap the hot air inlet on the choke housing, and seal the vacuum nipple between the choke housing and float bowl. all electric chokes are not equal, there are at least 2 different variations of wiring connectors, and the coils operate at different rates of opening/closing temp. and rate. some electric chokes use more current, others less.
bill
bill
#10
It doesn't completely seal it because, as Joe and Bill stated above, you need to remove the gasket so there isn't a good seal around the perimeter of the choke plate.
I ground the head down on a small screw and epoxied it into the hole in the carb. The choke housing fit right over it
edit: I think you were refering to just the cap...sorry for the confusion....carry on
I ground the head down on a small screw and epoxied it into the hole in the carb. The choke housing fit right over it
edit: I think you were refering to just the cap...sorry for the confusion....carry on
Last edited by allyolds68; June 6th, 2013 at 01:29 PM.
#11
Buying auto parts in Canada sucks. Rockauto is actually cheaper than local stores. Even when you include the shipping and duty for crossing the border the 3 parts I need are cheaper from Rockauto than local. That is plain stupid.
Just a rant. Thanks for all the great help in simplifying this DIY repair/upgrade.
Adam
#12
Don't know what the boneyards are like in Canada, but around here there's not to many 'old fasion' ( aka 80's and earlier RWD cars ) cars but there always seems to be one here and there with an electric choke/Qjet. As long as the rivets were replaced by screws, I always grab em when I can. They don't even charge you for dinky items like that so they're pretty much free!
Store to store shipping should not cost you a dime IMO. They certainly shouldn't charge you multiple times assuming you're getting everything from the same store. That's just legal raping of the customer if you ask me.
Store to store shipping should not cost you a dime IMO. They certainly shouldn't charge you multiple times assuming you're getting everything from the same store. That's just legal raping of the customer if you ask me.
#13
Adam
#14
Note that the coils come in two flavors - locking L tab (like the one pictured) and standard flat tab connector. If you get the L tab, then you need a matching connector. Carb parts houses, like quadrajetparts.com, will carry all of that stuff at decent prices. Joe's wiring is the /right/ way to do it, which means I did it simpler.
Super easy swap. Just make sure to throw away the gasket that was on the old coil. Also, the calibration marks may or may not have any relation to your setup, so it will take some experimentation to get it set.
Ideally, one would seal the vacuum source from the carb body when making this swap. However, it doesn't pull that much air, so just capping the housing is fine. Remember to also plug the now unused source on the back of the carb.
Super easy swap. Just make sure to throw away the gasket that was on the old coil. Also, the calibration marks may or may not have any relation to your setup, so it will take some experimentation to get it set.
Ideally, one would seal the vacuum source from the carb body when making this swap. However, it doesn't pull that much air, so just capping the housing is fine. Remember to also plug the now unused source on the back of the carb.
#15
and i also said...
you don't need any airflow through the no-longer-sealed choke housing, especially, unfiltered air.
one could thread a small machine screw, coated with jb weld, into the nylon nipple. grind off the head after you've screwed it in, and it'll never leak/fail, and it's completely reversible(with a very easily obtained new nipple).
bill
one could thread a small machine screw, coated with jb weld, into the nylon nipple. grind off the head after you've screwed it in, and it'll never leak/fail, and it's completely reversible(with a very easily obtained new nipple).
bill
Last edited by BILL DEMMER; June 10th, 2013 at 08:17 PM.
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