350 rebuild

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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 02:02 PM
  #1  
ChrisM's Avatar
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From: Southern California
350 rebuild

Hey all,
I have a '73 delta 88 convertible with a 350 and I believe a 2 barrel carb, automatic trans, and I think the stock rear end(2.73?). Anyway, I need to rebuild my engine because I have some heavy knocking, and my oil pressure is low at low RPM which I have been told points to bearing wear. So, my question is: I have a little bit of basic engine knowledge and I am definately on a budget, so I would like to do as much of the rebuild myself(like pulling the engine and dissassembling and assembling) but I need input on what I need to do. I have gotten the articles from the tech section on pulling the engine etc., but I need to know what parts I need to replace and what what needs to be machined etc. I am looking for a stock rebuild. I am open to low financial impact HP upgrade suggestions, but I am not willing to sacrifice what little gas mileage I get now for HP. This is still a boat, and I am not looking to turn it into a street racer. A little more kick off the line would be good, but otherwise I am very satisfied with highway cruising speed and pickup.
I have briefly though about upgrading to a 455 for some HP, but I think that would take a lot more time and money than just rebuilding my 350, as I would have to find parts, etc.

You all have a wealth of knowledge,and I would greatly appreciate your help. This site is actually my only way to find out this kind of stuff, as I can't seem to find a mechanic that knows much about oldsmobile engines.

Let me know if you need more info from me on the specs of my car.
Thanks in advance,
Chris
Old Apr 1, 2008 | 07:03 PM
  #2  
J-(Chicago)'s Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,468
From: Chicago
Well, I'll start off.
Here's some things to make sure are done before the motor is pulled.

Disconnect......
hood
any ground straps and wires from the firewall
battery
fuel pump lines
starter wires
sensors
Exhaust....you'll probably have to cut it off slightly after the manifolds because exhaust bolt heads are probably rusted beyond use.
motor mount bolts and nuts
Old Apr 2, 2008 | 01:17 PM
  #3  
ChrisM's Avatar
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From: Southern California
Thanks J-Chicago.

Maybe this is too broad of a question. So, maybe I could just get some input on what parts definately need to be replaced, what parts should be replaced, and what parts might be replaced. Also, what kind of machining will need to be done and where I might be able to get that done.

Thanks
Chris
Old Apr 2, 2008 | 02:23 PM
  #4  
Olds64's Avatar
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Posts: 18,196
From: Edmond, OK
It isn't a question of what parts need to be replaced. IF your engine is running then it is probably strong internally. You can reuse all of your accessories like the starter, water pump, distributor, carburetor, etc. I would suggest rebuilding your carburetor while the engine is at the machinist shop. You probably also want to put general tune up parts on it (ie. spark plugs, cap, rotor, etc.)

Once you have the engine out I would put it on a stand and disassemble it down to a short block. To do this all you have to do is remove the intak, heads, water pump, timing chain cover, and oil pan. Then you can take the engine to the machinist and tell him to machine it and return the short block to you.

When the machinist disassembles the engine he will tell you whether or not your crank, block, pistons, connecting rods, etc. can be machined. Like I said, if your engine is running then chances are they are still salvageable. Ultimately, I would definitely suggest having EVERYTHING machined. Have the cylinders overbored, the block line honed, the block decked, new cam bearings, the crank and rods reconditioned, etc. IF you don't do all of this it is essentially a waste of your time because you will just have to tear into it in the future. I experienced this with my 394. I didn't have it line honed when I did it before and now I am rebuilding a 455 to replace it.

You will spend alot of money, that is the problem. I guess you could just buy another Olds 350 and put new gaskets on it. That would be cheaper. (sorry about ranting)
Old Apr 2, 2008 | 05:09 PM
  #5  
Redog's Avatar
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From: Far Northeast Philadelphia, PA
For a stock rebuild he pretty much nailed it.

You could get a Edelbrock Performer manifold. It's flows the same as stock, but does save quite a few lbs.

I think in 73 all the SBO motors were running on unleaded gas, but if not, this is the perfect time to put in hardened valve seats
Old Apr 3, 2008 | 08:45 AM
  #6  
ChrisM's Avatar
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From: Southern California
Thank you all. This helps a ton!!! I really was lost as to how to approach this rebuild.
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